Roy

Yeh. I have looked at the wiring diagram but doesnt appear as though it is the absence of the level switch that is causing the problem. I am waiting for a mate to pull the plug on the cap and go for a drive. I suspect there is something else astray which is why I reckon I just need to go through all the wiring and see from there. The two obvious ones are the speed input and the actual PS solenoid. Maybe with the engine going in and out and all the fluffing around with oil cooler lines/Accusump etc its been pinched. I don't know. For now I am just channelling my inner 18yr old ex Valiant owner

Mint. Great to see the bus back on track!!!!

I have a new r33 reservoir 8n ky R32 which means i no longer have the reservoir with oil level switch. Im guessing thats why my steering is now heavy? Sigh, now to trace all the damaged loom back to find the wires for reservoir cap with level switch

The Recaro CS were shits to fit. The seats fit thevdimensions of the car well but the rail design and getting seat low is the usual head feck

When does the airstrip go in for the Cessna Bird Dog?

So pulling the Racetech seats with wings out and trying to make a little more street car. Lol, only prob is i dont have seat belt buckles to bolt to frames. Anyone with any spare or ideas on whete to get a pairbof buckles cheap Once in need to get them trimmed to match...auto trimmers aint cheap

This year its sounding like they have a waiting list. So may be a stronger turn out this year. Bathurst is more Vette country

f**k. You will need a 12L turbo diesel to turn wheels that big! 17x8 is where its at

Did either of you two get entries in for Challenge Bathurst? I am solo Vic entrant this year as the rest of the usual Vic crew hurt their vaginas

You made that look easy! What size wheels are you running on this monster truck?

Uncle Dunc, Kel has been posting too many pics of your amazing home....Need more progress pics/updates on the 32.

The car is pretty loud with those CF door cards. Ill swap you soem std ones to quieten down the interior?

Going to Winton this Friday? I already know Ill have a cold so cant go to work

I have you beat, Nov 99. What was the plate Duncan...HUJ-33 or something wasnt it?

Mint footage!!!! Any plans to get over to the mainland anytime soon?

Well after working in regional Victoria for the past 2 years finally starting to get home and get some work progressing on the car. Finally finished the wiring of my surge tank. Worked great at Phillip Island and first day the quick connect on the return line made a breeze to drain tank after a session and work out fuel used. Ended up being able to easily work out the fuel required for 12 lap sessions during the recent 6hr and pitted with only about 5 litres left in the car. Needlessly complicated actually had good functionality And https://www.jrmphotography.com.au/ always delivers on the photos front

Well back in Melb, got my gearbox back in after being pulled apart again. Now to tidy up a few things and get ready for the Bend in June. Can't wait to get the bus back on track. If anyone has some old school wheels then I'm on the hunt. I'm blown away how hard it is to find period wheels these days

Problem with 20s is nobody uses decent parts. A few mates had RB20s with HKS2530 turbo that weren't bad....but it's a small bore small stroke engine. A small turbo makes for a little nicer torque but you would be shocked by how little the TD06 gives away just driving around under 3,500rpm. My car was clearly quicker as after 5,000rpm I was making >40rwkws more. The natural benefit of the 20 is small light pistons, short stroke all meaning low piston speeds etc for lower stress bottom end. Smaller, lighter valves meaning easier for springs to control at high rpm. And i call hog wash to small valves that dont flow....look at the ratio of valve area to cylinder displacement of RB20 vs SR20 and you will see why RB20s can make a lot more power on std cams I found the secret to RB20s is a good exhaust manifold, ideally 6 into 2 into 1. These days I reckon a 7163 on 22psi and E85 with good quality twin scroll manifold would be pretty fun. With the Greddy manifold on my 20 it drove real nice off boost, better than std. Now not saying they are superior yadda yadda but you need to know and play to the strengths of the RB20. They rev and handle boost with strong std pistons and rods and low loads to crank and bearings. Again, going by the tech and size of the TD06-20G then an EFR 7163 is going to be more responsive, make more power and flow more. I feel that general wheel size is max id run on a 20. Suspect you can pull 8,500rpm and have good average power over a 4,000rpm power band. If that works then cool...if it doesn't fit the recipe then with used prices of engines these days it's going to get more expensive Won't need cams, lifters, headwork etc. I'd spend the money on oil pump and 8f you are going to track it and be at high revs for sustained period then underdriven pulleys are a good idea imo. I'm betting on e85 it will make 320-330rwkws on std internals just with good cooler, exhaust and ex manifold. I'd leave the std inlet and only if you find it falls over then throw something like a plazman on. I have gone back to std inlet and making 380rwkw now so std plenum can flow. But old combo of 2l and turbo fell over hard. Doesn't seem to do it with the extra flow of ported RB25DE head with twin 2860-5s and extra (dirty) 500cc. Also run a different diff ratio now (4.1 was 4.3) Truth is between the two set ups posted the 20 only clearly loses out after 210km/h with additional hp and torque with longer final drve making it able to pull an extra 30km/h down the straights at places like Phillip Island and Sandown

Having played with my old RB20 for years. These days a 20G is relatively small but was plenty of turbo for 8,500rpm. The secret for me actually making power at that rpm was tye Plazmaman inlet manifold. The std inlet manifold meant that power fell over after 7,000rpm It lost a bit of torque and response...but all in all since I was willing to spin it the moon I didn't mind too much. That said I did go back to std these days years later When going E85 and more boost the engine was perfectly happy with 8,600rpm rev limit. I shifted based on power curve so used all the revs in 1st and 2nd but generally shifted earlier 3rd to 4th etc as it was still in the meat of the curve. So my view is a 450hp external gate turbo for airflow, a plenum to help top end is all I needed for good spread of power using revs. It was perfectly reliable for the longest of times and only died in peak hour traffic when a radiator hose split under the plenum and I cooked the headgasket trying to get out of melb cbd with steam over the bonnet Still drove it for 12 months and on a skidpan bumped the limiter to 10,00rpm for giggles. Still didn't kill it and drove home. But skidpan with no load due to wheelspin isn't a real high rpm test If I was serious about making it more bullet proof then my advice is a good oil pump, underdrive ps and water pulleys so you don't overspeed the gears and cause cavitation. Valve springs too....I have Tomei solid lifters that I never installed as never had too...but some baby 256/9mm cams and lifters with the springs can't hurt. But I tried several cams in my RB20 and std always worked best so is very easy to over cam an RB20...part of the reason I never installed the Tomei solid lifters and cams is I could find a sub 250deg cam with >9.0mm lift It's stoopid that RB20s aren't $600 wrecker motors any more as I'd love to becstill playing with them

Damn solid car. Tragedy if itvsells before we actually do a day together!

So who should I send a twin scroll internal exhaust housing to if I want a T3 flange welded to it

So any recent 7670 results on a 25 or 26?

Holy titty f**k... solid work on the shed and brokers engine!!!

IMO YES! Hell yes. I went to buy an RB20 to try and do that last year it turns out that RB20s are now 2k engines so not going to bother as no RB is a cheap engine now

I made 260-310rwkws out of an RB20 for over a decade. 70,000kms street driving and probably 60 or so track days, motorkhanas, Dutton Rallys etc. The engine only died because I was sitting in traffic and a coolant hose under the inlet manifold had a leak and it lost its coolant during a city drive in peak hour. By the time I saw the skyrocketing temp and steam I had to keep driving another 2 mins to not cause traffic chaos in Swan St bridge in Melb. So fixed hose , crossed fingers but the head gasket had a minor leak and after 12 months with a slilghtly rough idle when cold etc was only a matter of time until I was going to havea more severe failure of the head gasket so retired the engine. It was perfectly reliable at 306rwkws on E85 and 8,500rpm with 21psi in its guts. The TD06 wasnt the worlds most responsive turbo but its a 2L 6 cylinder that has no problem with rpm so I call BS to the only 2,000rpm of powerband. I think the std internals are strong enough to handle the power you are after, expecially with E85 as the std rods are strong, ditto crank and pistons. If you are going to rev it as hard as I did there is no doubt some rod bolts are sensible if you are going to blueprint the motor and give it a general health check and blue-print. I dont think they really need rods and pistons etc unless you have a turbo and a fuel that will take upwards and over 25psi On 98 i tracked it with 255rwkws. On 100RON I tracked it with a few points more ignition and boost as it wasnt so ignition sensitive so was around 275rwkws and on E85 it was golden and made 306rwkws and thats the boost I ran it On PULP (with Plazmaman and std) On E85