Roy

What coilovers have you gotband what tyres are you going to run?

Bump

T88 this thing up.....

Because you confused the feck out of the oil and it has no clue where the feck it should go...so just sits in the engine feeling dejected

I can slap it on a pallet....its only the cost that would be prohibitive

Don't need this to stop the pallet from blowing away so nobody needs a block with a good crank in it for a rebuild?

Ringwood in Melbourne

BNR32 RB26 bottom end I have an BNR32 RB26 bottom end that was a std rebuild many years ago with new pistons and rings. A ring failed on cyl 1 meaning it has a slightly scored bore. Bores have plenty of meat in them so can easily handle an oversized piston. Comes with rods, and pistons but no sump. The crank was balanced with a Tomei extended oil drive installed when it was rebuilt. Did something like 3,000kms before the ring failed. Asking $350 pick up

As per above....BUMPY: Will take $2,000 for the Alcons and rotors rotors. Also have rear std R33 GTR upper and lower suspension arms for $50 each (traction, camber and LCA) Also have R32 rear end bits for $50 each, inc LCA and hubs ex HRT Momo seat EX Holden Racing Team (HRT) seat out of Jason Bright's 2002 car for ride days. I ran this seat in my track car for a few years and one weekend at Phillip Island Jason Bright was good enough to sign the seat for me The seat is a Carbon Kevlar Momo race seat. Back in the day it was a $4,500 seat and about the best strength-weight proposituon you could buy. The left hand side head restraint was trimmed to suit the HRT roll cage ( see pics) The past number of years i have kept the seat for my simulator setup but just don't have the space for it anymore so parting with my part of HRT history

The Foxtel coverage isnt bad...but hope F1 bring out a direct appl or something so I dont have to spend $1000 a year to watch races

This thread shows the popularity of F1 at the moment

$250 pick up

Are you suggesting they fail with a belly full of boost? Notice if thats still the case with steel bearing cartridges?

Arent std efi filters 10micron. Hell my fuel pick up is 15micron! Not sure I would chase better flow thru less filtration. I ended up going twin bosch OE 10micron filters that have M14 female threads. At the end of the day if you want filtration and flow its a matter of surface area...also with E85 and cheap filters you may just want to monitor it that they dont collapse due to any resin/glue bonding they may use in the filter element letting go in an E85 application. Part of the reason I went OE Bosch as there is loads of experience with E85. Ryco etc is probably fine but finnily enough I see oil pressure differences when going from Ryco oil filter to OE Nisan oil filter so I guess there is something in them

Still got the Alcons and seat

All IMO but i think the value of brake upgrades is over rated. RE performance all you want to do it stop the car ASAP. Now the std brakes with a good pad will stop the car like a champion. The feel the driver gets is the big variable. Some like different feels but the ultimate measure is the tape measure and stopping distance. As Sydneykid always said, and its a good starting point...if you have enough braking pedal to lock the brakes then you have reached the limit of tyre grip and max braking retardation. I will throw into the mix pedal feel so the driver can modulate the pedal without prematurely locking the brakes. But if you have ABS then that muddies the water. So all a brake upgrade allows you to do is that big stop 10 times in a row. big brake kit and std brakes with the same pad will likely stop the same on the first stop. Problem is by the 10th stop you are likely to have heat soak problems with the std setup so by the 10th stop you may be taking 15% longer to stop. So 80% of the heat soak is the rotor and its ability to cool and keep within the pad operating range. You can do that with diameter, width and number of vanes in the rotors. I would say the last 20% is pad size and how evenly the pad is pressed against the rotor. Depending on pad size and shape sometimes 6 pistons are better than 4 as you can apply more even pressure on the pad to the rotor giving more uniform pad temperature. More even temperature means less hot spots and less onset of brake fade. So the talk of 6 pistons, 8 pistons etc being better than 4 simply because its more is questionable. Given that the cheaper 8 pistons calipers run the same pads as ALcon/AP 6 pots tells you that there is little advantage as you dont see pad wear problems with Alcon Mono6 or AP CP5555 . When you have a good std setuo like a Skyline then all you are really trying to achieve is better heat dissipation.So that is largely rotor so piston sizes generally need to be reduced when going up in rotor diam to keep the brake balance consistant. You see the main ways to mess with braking torque which influences bias is pad friction coefficient, rotor diameter and overall piston area. So generally you are running similar u pads front and rear so leaves you with piston area and rotor....increase one and its wise to look at reducing the other. It makes little sense to put bigger pistons on a smaler rotor than your wheel diam will take as a smaller rotor has less leverage. Think about a spinning turntable and trying to stop it from spinning with your finger....is it easy to control its speed with you finger at the oter edge or closer to its centre. So that largely gets me to when upgrading brakes throw as big a diameter and width rotor at your car with as many vanes as possible. Then throw a caliper and pad at it that will work wuth the std bias of the car. R32s seem to like a but more front bias then std...R33/34s less so. If you really want to improve stopping distances then semi slicks and well sorted ride heights to go with your quality shocks/springs will give a waaaay better result then just with a brake upgrade.

I like them...they are absolutely right regarding the engineering in their kits. I originally had the piston sizes that Brembo use in the F40 which is the same as what Nissan/Brembo use in teh R33/34 Brembo.....i found the car had too much braking torque/bite and was too easy to lock front wheels. I then tried other Stoptechs with the smaller piston sizes that Stoptech recommend and they are miles better for feel....same rotor and pads, just different piston sizes. Thats why I am wary of the EVO calipers as those pistons are pizza trays!

332 and an y caliper will gfit inside a GT4 rim...i have tried several and you are fine. Most AP, A;con and Brembo calipers will even fit 343mm, i run them at the moment and had GT4s before changing to TE37s. My 343mm Brembo F40/ST40 Stoptech setup With a racey GT caliper you can fit 355mm, but those calipers are expensive race car stuff...

I have enough coordination to dip the clutch and change gears if engine is our of power band. Far simpler than spending 30k on engine and turbo setup!

Something up the poop shoot with that GTX2871 result. Miles worse than my TD06-20G

6758....has to flow ball park same as TD06-20G and wouls be miles ahead in response. 280rwkws on E85 aint no bad thing for a 20. The EFR comp has to be close to what the 20G can flow but not sure about the hot side flowing what a TD06 an. Either way it miles over the desired power level

Just PM me when you are ready

I have a new TD05-18G with no rear housing i will be happy to do a deal with. No twin scroll opyion but smallish turbo that i bought for my old RB20 before the head gasket went

LOL...i was defending the honour of -7s when you were turbo hunting.

Well fingers crossed a wet race and Mercs crash out