Roy

If i am getting an E30 it will be a 325is. As cool as the E30 M3 is they are way too expesnive for what they are. 325is with its 6 cylinder for 1/4 of the money is the go. Have found a nice E36 Evo M3 (does anybody know what the Evo designates?) It has APs, some suspension work and breathing mods. Looks neat too although he is asking top money for it. Still under Aus$15,000 so hopefully my mate gives it a clean bill of health

Lookd at M5s, but the age and cost of servicing etc puts me off them, also the fuel economy thing. I want an Exige but...lol i dont have the 60k for one Needs to be rwd, reliable or at least not cost the earth for parts and ready to eat plenty of kms and do some track hack stuff. M5 is appealing as it has plenty of space

I have looked at Skylines but thinking that if i stretch the dollars a little further then a friend can garage it for me over there and when he comes back at Xmas he can import it for me. So looking for a car that makes sense to import. Something European would be cool as i will be following the Tour De France up to day 9 where the plan is to leave the Tour an drive through Andalusia, through Lake Zahasa on the way to Bay of Biscay. Should be a pretty fun 21 days if driving through all those cool roads, especially if i can squeeze in a day at Jerez

May be ok for a lap or three, but hate to think what that would do to gearbox, engine, and diff temps

On the front i tend to agree they are not that great a value upgrade. For the dollars they are hard to go past though. On the rears you have ot eithe rhave a prety damn serious car or plenty of money to justify an upgrade for the rears over std OE Nissan Brembo 2 pots

He already has a 4.363 diff ratio so.... didnt you change the turbo from teh 3082 or whatever it was you were running? But you now seem to have as much lag as you did before????? You can change the diff (i havent changed mine...its an option as i am about to go to a larger frame of turbo) but really if you want response or you can do is go smaller frame turbo. You may get minor improvements if you put the std inlet manifold back on or get a better manifold...depending on what you are running at present. But yes, a 4.6 diff will help it come on at lower road speeds, but keep in mind that since you run 16" wheels you will be reving at about 4,000rpm on the highway

Well u have written off the idea of getting a Cossie to import (i dont even have a house with a garage so crazy to import one ) So that leaves me with a bit better budget. I can stretch it up to 25K Australian, so now entertaining the idea of an E46 M3, 350Z or 968CS. But then i look at the prices of sorted EVO IVs and they are less then 5,000pounds. Has anybody driven a 964 Porsche? I have only driver earlier model 911 which has the shitty seating position and pedal position. Are 964s still cursed by this? I am still thinking E36 M3 is the best all round bet...but E46s are not that much more expensive, are way better cars and the thought of importing it after 12 months makes way more sense then with an E35 or E30 325iS

I cant honestly see what all the fuss is about with regards to looks, we are never going to be back at the early-mid 90s when the cars looked great, but the looks of the car is not even half of it. Its about the noise, the speed the drivers and politics and of course the cars. I have to say i cant wait for this years. It has the promise to be even more interesting then the past two years where we have been truly spoilt. Fark yesteryear, tomorrow looks just fine

Matt, let me first say that CFD software was not cheap or acessible when i was doing it around 2000-2001. Dont know these days. But what i can almost guarantee is that irrespective of cost and access these days you need to have a thorough understanding of fluids mechanics if you are to have any hope in hell of being able to do any meaningful CFD. Reading a book on race aero will give you more understanding then trying to use CFD as a tool. CFD software means the user has to make many base assumptions, which can mean shit in shit out. There are plenty of small level open wheelers manufacturers who with their teams of engineers do CFD only to find that in testing their CFD model was floored by said assumptions. Hell you read the same thing about F1 teams every year having the same problem. So it can be cool and novel to play with if you have access....but i genuinely believe you need to have an engineering degree with a good comprehension of fluid mechanics combined with several years of industry experience in fluid mechanics if you are to have any hope in hell LOL, easier to read books and use good practice then substantiate with seat of pants or any data acquisition you may have

Keen to see pics of the rear with info on rotors used!

Fark all that...just run an extra 2psi...will make up for the 5kgs of weight in the car. For christs sake Matt you already have the power os the USS Enterprise so just get out there and give it some gas

Dont panic guys. It will just take a period to get Weights & Measures approval for meters for E85. But hey its a govt department so who knows

Still in boxes. Selling because i have grabbed some lightweight carbon fibre mirrors instead. Just Jap sell for $195, as always my loss is buyers gain, asking $150 + delivery http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=261&page=1

STD R32 wheels are 16 x 8 +30 and the R33 GTR wheels are 17 x 9 X 30 so they will be fine.

Some pics

Reading an old Hyper Rev there was a brake comparison for an R32 GTR. It was std, vs R33 Brembos vs 324mm Project U rotor with F50 caliper vs 4 pot Project U 342mm rotor and 6 pot 355 Project U setup. The F50 and 324mm Project U rotor ran about 80 deg C cooler then the std GTR Brembo setup, but still some 150 deg C hotter then the 355mm 6 pot setup...which is what you expect really. So the F50 definitely works well with the 324mm rotor, well at least better then the OE Nissan Brembo...lol the F50 caliper, the caliper for all occassions It can be used on a 324mm rotor through to the 380mm Biot rotor

Not good reading all this. I was just waiting to sell some bits to hep fund the PPG gearset for my RB20, now i am having major second thoughts as it will kill me to have such an expensive component fail

Rading this thread and seeing an engineless complied R32 GTR makes me want to do silly things with large sums of money

So is Brawn fishing for sponsors or is the pace genuine? It stand to reason that the car will be decent since they had been working on it just about longer then anyone else?!?! Personally i cant see the car being the world beater its test times are suggesting. LOL if it is i expect to see Honda buy back in by mid season just so it can say that Honda won a WC/WCC , with a Mercedes engine

Forget power down traction etc. If you have done as much driver training as me you will realise that generally first timers are way too slow with opposite lock and have regular tank slappers. The grip that semis afford masks bad driving habits. Street tyres with their lower grip thresholds teach people control .... and as they cpome to grips with how cars react at lower speeds on street tyres they will be ready for how cars react with semis. My opinion only... PS this is not considering the cost of tyres, or the wear of tyres etc. Simply the learning curve of people doing scary speeds on the track

Looks good Dane. Make sure the pump is well isolated from the alloy otherwise she will become a nice hollow space for the fuel pump noise to resonate in.

Semis for first time track goers are a no no! I will argue until i am blue in the face.

I am hoping i get sacked. Would love the beach time with a bottle of Bundy in FNQ

Installing cam gears is no 30min job. You have to remove the CAS, timing belt cover, all the guff associated with getting the timing belt off, then swap the came gears, replace guff and timing belt. Then adjust the cam gears a number of times to get power spread right. Then once you are happy with the setting and tune complete you need to again remove the CAS, replace the timing belt cover (put back on) then re-install the CAS and again check base timing. Not hard work but time consumg work. Sayings its a quick and therefore cheap job is wrong. Workshops charge for their time and little time consuming jobs are by nature expesnive. Its a shame but it is what it is

Yeh, but i am a tight ass so am pretty kind to mechanicals when i drive my car, so would hope i could get one to hang together. Still trying tpo do some numbers on the OS Giken gear set and also on PPG box, though ongoing maintenance is my main concern with a helical dog box from PPG. LOL i am easy on mechanical parts but hard on panels