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I really didnt want to chip in because reading "X kms to a tank" really shits me to tears, and usually results in an estimate of 20+ litres of fuel per 100km...Anyhow, either do the instructions that cowboy1600 lists and then bring us the numbers, or don't bother at all. No other estimates are going to be of use. I would however add a few things. Once the pump clicks out the first time I usually wait 10 seconds then add more slowly until the second click just in case it cut out early. Ive had it happen. Secondly, Ive had better results not avoiding boost. I have a auto stagea, which is also heavier than skylines. I had consistently worse fuel economy by disabling 4th/overdrive and avoiding boost. Try using less revs and more boost, thats the whole point of a turbocharger. Why buy a turbo car and not use it? YMMV.

No way in hell should anyone get underneath a car supported by that.

Did you need particular info on how strong the struts have to be?

The bonnet struts or the tailgate ones?

Any update on what is was? To be clear, the problem went away when you removed the transfer case -> front diff shaft?

Do you have original caster rods with the old fluid filled bushes?

If its the same as an R33/WGNC34 upper control arm bush then its a 2 piece/half and half bush. Chisel them outwards.

Ive used those ones and I havent had problems. Did you have 2 alignments done by the same workshop? They should have straightened the steering wheel to centre either time. Doesnt inspire confidence in their accuracy.

How about http://www.wikia.com ?

Very interested, any pics?

Any more info on that? Ball joints arent likely to be squeaky. Things like sway bars can make very loud creaking noises at the rubber mounts. Worn ball joints make dull knocking sounds if the ball is moving slightly around in the socket. Usually noticeable on rough roads where everything in the suspension is moving around slightly but constantly.

Rears are super easy. Easier than the front, which can be a bit tricky (read: dangerous) with spring compressors, if you have tapered springs. Have a read here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/77849-r3233-replacing-shocks-installing-coilovers/page__hl__strut With the stagea you dont have to pull out any of the interior to get to the strut tops, except for the plastic covers which are on top of the strut towers. The only special tools are spring compressors.

Did you see my private message Archael?

You could get away with a large steering rack boot, or go to a suspension shop and see what generic ones they have around. My concern though is that the bump stops are built into these boots.

I dont have any play in the wheels, though apparently that isnt enough to say that all the wheel bearings are fine.

Im really hoping its not a wheel bearing. I can rule out the brakes I think. I did a big suspension overhaul, including new front brake rotors and pads. The noise was there before and after the work. The low whale noise before I come to a stop is what to listen out for, not the general road noise.

I have some low roaring noise, which seems to have a rhythmic nature (like every rotation of something). Ive included a sound clip from inside the car, the sound is most obvious when coming to a stop, when there isnt much other wind or road noise. Best listened to with headphones. Any ideas on what it could be? ps, I think its one of the front wheels, but its hard to tell. road noise.mp3

I reckon a trans cooler is a good idea in general, especially for towing. The stagea seems to lock the torque converter under narrow cruising conditions only.

Air flow meter. If its dirty or malfunctioning, it cannot properly measure the amount of air passing into the engine.

Well something has to give, if the engine isnt running rich. Youve quoted about 20L/100km, being conservative. Which is a ridiculous amount for gentle driving as you claim. Are the brakes stuck? Do the wheels move freely?

Just did that recently. Its good advice for any car - the grease on the pins wont last forever, and the remainder that I wiped off the old pins was dark brown/black. I just re-coated the pins and holes with dow corning 111. I hope you didnt put the new pins in dry. I would even be hesitant to use new pins without knowing whether the old pins caused damage inside the holes.

What about where the toe arm connects to the cast wheel assembly? Its not that strong there. How does the adjustable toe arm connect to the subframe? Did the toe arm move in the elongated hole?

Sauté-Jesus. The S is invisible.

Interesting. That is interior colour code Z. Same as mine but seats are faux leather. Im almost certain there will be a way to get it working on a Mac. Try looking up virtual machines for mac, or dual boot options. Though keep in mind youll need a windows installer disc once you set up a virtual machine. Its like starting a new formatted computer with no operating system installed.

Finally got FAST working....had to install a virtual machine within vista, running XP. Put your VIN through fast GTR260. Do you have black interior?