Carbon 34

Yeah that would be a drastic difference You can put in a sub that uses 0 space One fits behind the panel or in the spare tyre ( actually in the spare not the well) Depending on your model you can do other things as well

Well lets see Time alignment =T.A for those at home Time alignment doesn't need speaker size ( some TA uses it for a baseline but not required ) But it can take into account the bandwidth / freq response of the car and your actual speaker while running a test tone if your RTA / MiC the car Your speaker selection sadly is prob the worse option for SQ you could have SQ sounds best with no rears or just bass in the rear ( surround sound is different setup then SQ car) the 4x 6 will never cut a front stage unless its a plate 4x6 with a separate mid and tweet on a plate and even then the speakers are sub standard The only way to use the existing rears is put a coil on them and cut the tweeters off the system Not wise but can be done , easier to do a 6.5 sub box in a band pass box ported thru the rear deck holes( don't laugh at the size the highest scoring car in IASCA SQ history runs 6.5 in a band pass box) they can pound for so small , they won't blow your hair back but sound damn nice So best option ditch current speakers do a custom setup , custom install ( not cut the car) a decent amp or plan for one ,2channel, or 4 , or two one for fronts one for sub Or 5 channel , run the fronts active ( one channel to each speaker for tonnes of headroom punch) and sub And road kill the doors, rear deck metal, min speakers down with tweeters below mids ,low actually move the stage forward and slightly up by placing the speakers further from your ears dash or A pillar speakers may sound brighter but floods the windshield with sound and blurs the separation of instruments , and can be very harsh , amplify noise ( hiss, whine etc) a RTA test can see the peaks and valleys and noise floor if you lower the noise floor by 3db it's the same as doubling your amp power !! ( noise floor is the sound with nothing on in a quiet location or engine on , radio on but volume down all the way ) normal house noise floor is about 50-60db A skyline at idle can be 80-100db My car with just sound deadened is so quiet inside you can listen to the iPhone speaker on the highway with it in the console !! Without it you can't hear it at all with windows up!! And my car isn't that loud compared to some around If there is interest I would draw up diagrams of setups sooner rather then mid next year lol

Lol that's the biggest reason not to buy a 32 is the ghey push button cluster it should be possible depending on the window arc, width, pick up points, rewire the switches to stalk controls, meet ADR rules for impact zones fit AC and various other things Plus r34 is wider do the dash then door cards so they match up to dash arc might be easier to refab the r32 dash into something more astetic pleasing but same basic setup

Don't use sika flex it shrinks and your bog n paint will fall off Use tiger seal from U POL Or bostik Or Fusor can't remember the part # you should use glass bog too for strength or actually fibreglass them on after bonding

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Yeah what Daniel said lol +1

Plenty in the 200-250 range without install external antennas ( tiny ones) And alloy case with heat sink ( tiny too) at least 10 companies make them not including eblow ones They offer full features and can trigger a remote item like alarm or kill switch They send out GPS coordinates in SMS and clicked onto it google earth or maps opens Highly accurate tested to within 1 meter of real location in a poor coverage area with lots of metal and houses around it a rubber mat and soft rubber mounting used on screws fixes up a fair bit of vibration It also stops heat transfer from the actual car body a bit without breaking the ground plane Most of the heat is from car, motor or sun , the unit is only room temp otherwise even charging up

The series 2 front bar looks nothing like that , I have one and it looks like a damn ford No side skirts was standard Don't care it says nismo that wing and rear end is horrid looking , the bulge that says skyline ruins it

Why would it ? don't use a damn iPhone but a tried and true Nokia , cheap as chips , long standby and better signal But iPhone can face time the crim and use find my phone app to simplify the setup and stream music , use for emergency like poor mans onstar Haha lots of handy items if your clever and take it apart to mount the camera in dash bezel or vent and you can set the phone to erase after failed attempts to unlock ( could be good or bad depending on mounting )

The front is normal one for the year GTT,the three vents are for the side mount intercooler What side skirts it doesn't have any , exactly how mine came has the awful wing and ugly ass rear bar Looks unmolested for the most part besides that

A mini tracker is fine for tracking a girlfriend lol or your skate board But the specs don't hold up well to Australia's climate , the solder joints need to be able to survive track bashing suspensions and rpm vibrations , ripple strips and be able to be hidden in a stripped car as well yes it can be done expect the mini tracker to last about 6 months if that !! even jaycars do not meet the heat here and that is in a closed air condition car not a hot race car The catalog points out the flaws that failure to communicate starts around 30c ( iPhones do that too ) It has no external antennas so range is average if it can't see the sky clearly Another point is use a cell service that has many towers in your band , 900mhz , 2100mhz etc Telstra towers are the best option in most cases and services that use those so as you can see going cheap might cost you a car !!

Rare spares sells the megs pro products M105 etc Farcela works too Even better is the aircraft lexan window restoration products but damn hard to find outside of USA Sandpaper man in qld has 12,000 gritt wet paper which brings up the lens on the r34 to perfection before hitting it with polish and buffing compounds to a better then new finish , you can get rid of casting defects and blemishes from factory

Update for future ref Power plus touch up paint from Autobarn and other shops Qm1 paint code = 93-00 Nissan Pj2142 this is the skyline color polar white Qm1 paint code = 93 Nissan pj2240 Alabaster White This is the yellowish white that Autobarn tried to sell you

Mulkwat flush in water run as recommended Then yank heater hose at core firewall when warm not hot hot Drop the lower radiator hose as well ( warm not smoking hot) Jam a garden hose twist nozzle in and turn on the heater to hot so the flap is open Turn on the water and back flush all the junk out A bunch will come out let it run for till clear Beware do not pressure it just tap pressure Do not run engine Tape up and plastic on all electrical this could cause bad solder joints or pre existing leaks to leak again or worse ( if they had stop leak in them or heater core is corroded bad) Drain all the water , refill with 100k or better coolant and distiller water if needed , about 10 litres Drain air they bolts vents Test at idle and top up Go for a drive around the block a few times before parking it Top off overflow to line The next day check overflow and under cap Once cold it will suck some in and be low Check every day for a week or two to be safe

If you invert and spin one of the horns slightly they bolt up fine ( super tight but works) So the blitz Fmic bolts up fine The sensor need to be there it feeds info into the ecu according to shop manual Mine just shut my ac off automatically when the car was sitting too long in 40c+ heat but its still between Fmic and radiator heat soaking , needs moved in front of Fmic to work properly when the car has no airflow the ecu has a fails safe that shuts off the ac at extreme temps and won't allow it to come on again till it senses cooler air( that is on auto mode)

If anyone cares the App is now open to Australian users to stream music off the net and pioneer radios etc http://www.pandora.com/mobile/on_the_iphone_wap_content.vm it learns what you want to hear and creates a band playlist and much more

Haha did I call the alarm date or what Check the siren model it's on the horn nose middle A common problem on the ESP was the key spins and rips off wires steam kills the siren -slowly goes nuts Yes you can update with a new much better siren easy enough if you know how to solder properly? Any aftermarket installs after alarms seem to end with a dead alarm unless a security installer does it - about 80% of the time lol funny how that works Dealers are notoriously bad I can't disclose the fuse info online but the original install people could ? just don't go nuts digging around or it could cause more issues True if the alarm isn't locked with bit writer Sync is only issue after dead battery but picks up the code quickly after replaced or charged again Is your antenna ( alarm still plugged in and not cut?) that will stop the remote range to mm

If the alarm siren is more then 2.5-3 years old or the car battery has been run flat during that time The internal siren battery could be faulty and needs replaced , if the siren horn has a stamp on the nose 515esp or 515r it's more the likely due for replacement , the new one is smaller and lots louder way more annoying for crims lol the above models fail at the 3 yr mark in most case or leak around the key if gasket is missing do not disconnect Car thieves favourite trick is to annoy you by setting off your siren often till you shut off the alarm or cut the siren off , then bang they steal your car!! don't fall for it Alarms rarely false once setup right Could be a bad sensor or door trigger as well How many beeps you can figure it out from that? New sirens run 60-120 bucks retail depending on where you buy it You must have battery backup model at min Did you get your remote working ?

Email sent hope it helps

Forgot to mention the brain maybe locked out with a bit writer and that is a direct electronics dealer fix only

I have the guide book for 2008 , 5901 Shoot me a pm with your email addy to send it over

Not soliciting business But I can sort that request in various materials and modifications

It's not vinyl ester !!! they would have used pre preg carbon sheet and vacuum autoclaved it , with that in mind autoclaving is 150c or more Most run of the mill pre preg. Is good for 300c !! and carbon itself is unaffected by that little bit of heat , epoxy failures yes but not carbon now chopper strand mat is weaker but stil not affected by 150c , corvette is made that way since 53 !! and they don't go floppy ?? I have a large hunk of 3k tow 2 layers thickcarbon with west systems epoxy and you can beat the hell out of it hot or cold with a ball peen hammer not a mark ( this sits in the sun for the past 3 years now!! ) but the same epoxy with a sandwich of Kevlar and carbon baked , failed at 250c ( delaminated ) during some epoxy trials for a strut bar of pure composites no metal it's a bad mix ( cured wrong ) IMO

Sounds like the epoxy mix was wrong or its a knock off Carbon epoxy should be able to handle damn near direct flame !!! It should never go flimsy or its defective bond There is epoxy on the market used to make it super shiny but fails and goes soft above 80-90c Maybe thats it Fiberglass doesnt go flimsy either unless its near flame( different epoxy used ) Japan doesnt get hot as hell like oz so dont expect it to have UV stable epoxy , japan isnt cutting edge in compostes but the fit is normally way better from QC

Your welcome Thank you come again