BBQ

Have you checked your Plugs and Coil Packs ? Looks very similar to a r33 gts-t we run up on the dyno with a couple of coils a little dodgy. And yes invest in a bigger fuel pump they are a man’s best friend when you own a skyline. Other wise you will be singing the song .. number 6 da da…… I melted piston number…. 6 da da…

I reckon get a new turbo like GT3040 or a HKS as you can pick them up for around $2000, Due to the fact that it will cost you about $1000 or more for high flowing your stock turbo, And to take advantage of the motor that you’re building it would make more sense to do it while it’s off the road now instead of having to change it in a few months time. when you want more power (as we all do) :-) Funds permitting off course. And you can sell your stock turbo for a reasonable price and save up the difference. $1000 for high flowing $400 - 600 for stock sale - dependant on condition of turbo = $500 difference or less for new Turbo ???

You can pick up a set of crower rods for around 2k rated at high hp.

Yes, that was the first thing we tried. What we have noticed though, according to the APEXi AVCR manual it states, when using external waste gate 70% duty. We tried that and the boost was going crazy like 2Bar, but when we turned it down to 20% it seems to be holding 7 - 8 PSI.

Sweet that gear ratio calc is the way to go.. Saves me using my brain. Good Stuff R33vit.

Yes, I was hoping some one had setup an ARCR with an external wategate to work out what duty and boost setting work well with them. Has any one had this type of configuration?

Checked the setup and all seems to be connected rite, but we are still having boost problems, Has any one setup a TurboSmart pro gate 45 with an APEXi AVCR ? If so what duty cycle do you run as the manual say to use 70% duty with external gate ? We tested it with .5 Bar and 70% duty and it holds 9 pound untill 6k and then between 6 & 7 k it goes to 14psi ?? Any ideas?

Can some one please delete this thread made a typo and accidentally pressed submit twice

Turbosmart Pro gate 45 Got a quick question about the pro-gate 45, does any one know when hooking up an EBC if the controller can go into any one of the vacuum lines on the pro gate or is it specific to how its connected, eg top is EBC and bottom is boost pressure gauge ? vise versa.

Turbosmart Pro gate 45 Got a quick question about the pro-gate 45, does any one know when hooking up an EBC if the controller can go into any one of the vacuum lines on the pro gate or is it specific to how its connected, eg top is EBC and bottom is boost pressure gauge ? vise versa.

As far as I’m concerned if you say something then you had to be thinking it!!! So what was the point apart from, posting crap on a thread that was still in the middle of being created??

Well actually, if you read the article, it contains some useful information about how to mod your skyline and how not to break your skyline.... Some people just don't appreciate anything.

I don’t think there is a safe level for any car, to tell you the truth. You can tune a car at 1000hp or you can tune a car at 200hp, either way any one of the cars could die first eg, the 200hp one due to the fact that there are so many moving part and any thing could give way at any time. We can only give you a guide, on how to setup your car. Not tell you a safe level to tune at, because we aren’t responsible for anything going wrong. Take it to a Work shop that will guide you in the right direction.

Engine/Car: 1995 R33 GTS-T RB25DET Type of failure: ringlands failure on #6 ,5 ,4 ,3 & *melted pistons* Factors influencing the failure: 12psi on AVC-R, Motor over 100,000km's old State of tune of the engine: Usual, FMIC, Exhaust, Oil used and service interval: Penrite synthetic General comments: Happened to 2 skylines now, due to stock fuel pump leaning out with more boost. Pics of Piston here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../sort/1/cat/500

Check your belts, eg, alternator, power steering, A/C if all are ok maybe your timing belt pulley is seising up, it tends to try and jump off the pulleys on down revs, How many km on the clock? if 100,000km it will be due for timing belt change.

It all depends on the tunning, If you running stock ecu and bigger turbo, you will lean out your computer and your internals will go bang, (From experience) but if tunned correctly it should handle it, on say 18 PSI, But be sure to not go over about 20 as the head gasket won’t seal for very long on that much Psi. And you will more then likely kill the ring lands on the RB motor (which is common fault) or put a conrod though the side of your block. In due time.

We are in the middle of running in a freshly re-built motor now, And from what we know the first 500k’s is with running-in oil and then change it to synthetic from their on. We have just clocked 680km and done an oil chance with synthetic and you notice the car running lots smoother straight away with the new oil, compared to the running in stuff. Haven’t had any problems with compression or loss of oil. Everything seems to be running ok.

I don't see much of an advantage of increasing the red-line to 7500rpm, if your only running 15psi max. by the time your turbo hits 6700 its all ready running out of steam, unless your planning on running a bigger turbo with 20+psi, then it would be worth your while.

What type of Spark Plugs are in the car? And also what size gap have they been set at. I know most skylines have a miss-fire problem with plugs that are set at a gap bigger then .7 - .8. Also make sure no vacum hoses have come off or any wires / plugs have come out of the sensors through out the motor. Could possibly be your Crank Angel sensor if your plugs and coils check out fine, or could even be your fuel pump. What type of miss is it, a intermitent miss or happens the same all day every day ?

All I can say is, If you give me a N/A car to drive I will bet it won’t get past 50,000km untill it dies. But if a grammar drove the same car from 0ks. It would last 300,000kms Likes wise, with a Turbo Charged car. But..... you have to weigh up the difference, When a N/A car goes full noise the pistons, rods and crank don’t move any where as fast, as what a Turbo car does, so naturally theirs going to be more wear on a Turbo car then N/A car.

We purchased the clutch and fitted it our selves, Extra heavy duty, paddle clutch, With standard Fly Wheel. And after installing it we were full noise testing it out. With 4000rpm launches. Worked well and haven’t had any problems with slipping, and that was 1 year ago. I think the only reason why he wants you to baby it, is if it fails, he can say it came under the warranty guide lines of installation eg, 1000km of running it in.

That sounds about right 187.4 Rwkw, We had a similar r33 1995 GTS-T with Dump pipes pod, Front mount intercooler, 12psi boost dyno at 194 Rwkw on standard premium unleaded, with shoot out mode. run it down the strip and couldn't get any traction (up here in FNQ) untill about 3th gear, with ET of 14.0 at 107mph.

Are you able to get the S15 one as well, I can't seem to download any of them from Emule.

Does any one have the S15 or S13 For Silvia? or Both

We'll you never no i could just be the thin oil, but what he described is exactually what happened to our project R33 on the dyno. white smoke after the run.