BBQ

Ok, How about this, Fair enough your car made the power… How about the other factors effecting its performance ? Eg how about a 7th injector plumbed into the intake ? or even a shot of Gas ?, what about the fuel ? running Bp sure, but did you add a pinch of toluene ? Some of the factors that can really increase power on a Dyno.

You mite have forged pistons, But when your stock injectors can't keep up at full noise, You won't have any pistons. I can guarantee it. Run that car up another five times and see if you have any pistons left in your cylinders ? The best I have seen with a very similar setup to that, with the GT35/40, at 16psi, with stock injectors is 240rwkw that’s with the injectors in over-rich mode. At 381rwkw is just asking for trouble. As Sydney kid also said, Average power, I would like to see that car run over a 1/4mile, because that gives an indication of the cars actually power. Ohhh yes Can you please post up a Dyno Graph ? But still a good effort with that setup. good stuff : -)

Good to see you worked it out, The moral of the story, All ways check your cams before installing, cause its a b!tch when you have to pull it all out again and put the correct ones back in.

I think you will find it has absolutely nothing to do with a sh!t tune. If in fact it’s probably a good tune if your car does pop/ blow out flame. Because if it does then you know you don't run as much of a risk of leaning out your motor and killing it, as compared to no back fire, were you don't have enough fuel into the engine causing it to run lean. If you watch the Japan drag racing I think you find just about every one of their cars running any were from GTS-T running 11 to GTR running low 8, pop and back fire every gear change. Because they tune them rich, for reliability.

Yes just tap into that wire pin out from the ECU with your SAFC and that will give you a reading for your RPM, Simple as that.

Sorry, I was looking at the r33 Pinout diagram, The 32 Diagram for Rb20, Pinout put 7 is Speed Sensor, which yes you can use for the RPM Signal. Thats the problem with having too many Wiring Diagrams !!

Pinout 7 for R32 Rb20 Is for RPM Signal, Ping out 7 for R33 Rb20 Is for Throttle Sensor Signal

I reckon it would go pretty good actually, due to the power to weight ratio, Now that the motor has lost 2 cylinders compred to the rb the sr are heaps lighter in weight. And the car has all the go fast bits, Hks tubo, injectors, decent FMIC.

Due to your car running rich, the unburnt fuel when you back off the throttle is left in the chamber, So once your throttle body closes theirs no more air only leaving fuel to hit your nice hot turbo. Which ignites and back fires. no mager dreamer, as lots of skylines do it. You should see what happens when you have a 700hp GT3540 and that fuel hits that a full noise. Its pretty awesome flame about 1m long. Just make sure your exhaust sticks out far enough from your back bumper, other wise it will melt it eventually.

Yes, if it is a 180sx the tacho won't work with rb20 ecu, difference impediance and voltage signal, Same as if you do a S13 CA18 non turbo to a S20Det the tacho won't work either. You have to invest in a different tacho system eg Digital or Shift Tacho.

Did you get your block decked ? If not that’s probably the problem, Your gasket won't be sealing properly, also did you use the correct tension settings for the head ? Using the same head bolts shouldn't be a problem, Have done so in 2 cases. As long as they were installed correctly, eg stretched first, then tensioned, and so on. Have you checked your cylinders to make sure no water is leaking into them ? Also check to make sure you haven't got and lines around the wrong way, eg turbo lines, water line going into oil inlet on block and so on. I'm intrested to know if you find the problem. Good luck

Have a search though the forums, their is all ready a thread on Power fc and Autronic. The main reason is that FC is a much cheaper option then what a Autronic system is in skylines. And the Power FC is a direct replacement, where autronic you have to re-wire you loom and by the other options to work with the ECU, eg sensors, ignition systems.

Well if they are the wrong cams, hes going to have to unistall them and send them back and get the correct ones. You can't run a car with the wrong cams.

For the time you will end up wasting on mucking around with, cams, cas, computers. to trying and get it to work. It would be quicker if you pulled out the cams, contact your supplier and get them to send you the correct cams ASAP and then you send back the R34 ones when they arrive. For the sake of pulling off the timing belt and water pump, its really not that much hassle, compared to messing around with the wrong CAS, which could give you the wrong IGN reading, which could potentially damage your motor. That is if your certian they are the wrong cams first.

I'm pretty sure you don't have to have a restrictor for it, as its all ready built in. (as r31nismoid said) The only way yours could have done that is if, the oil seal was too old and on its way out, or you have lots of blow by happeing causing it to break the oil seal.

1.2mm, 87mm bore, Metal head gasket. from my experience.

From what I know about Cr and Head Gaskets, Thinner the gasket, eg 1.2 mm will give you better response and drivability, but not able to run as much boost and compared to a gasket that is 1.8mm thick, where you would be able to run more boost but response won't be quiet as good. But the advantage of a larger gasket is it will keep the cylinders cooler then what a thin one would, reducing detonation. But rembering the only reason most people go an after market head gasket is if your doing a piston replacement, changing the bore size using Forged Oversized pistons to, eg 87mm, 88mm which a standard gasket won't fit. so thats how you get most of your benifits, out of an aftermarket gasket is increasing your cylinder capacity. Other wise its not worth it.

Yes it did, but the other 5 cylinders had cracked ring lands all the way through. So it wasen't pushing along too well. Mainly because the plugs would oil up, preventing it from starting !!

Ok, My thoughts were if your running an AFM meter and you blow a cooler pipe, the turbo will still be pumping 1bar, but the open cooler pipe will be trying to suck in standard air atmosphere pressure which will make your car to, pretty much stall instantly. The flame will be caused by the low amount of air intake in the cylinders, leaving excess fuel to hit the hot turbo and ignite. I don't think it would make the ecu put twice as much fuel as your car would be off by then..

How does a cooler pipe popping off make your car catch fire ? it dosn't have anything to do with the flames comming out the exhaust ?

Thats dodgie.. I had exactly the same type of guy when I was seilling a road bike. He typed exactlly like that. Although he wannted to send me international travelers checks for it Which probaly would have been fake... So I just ignored the guy....

did you have to get injector collars with them at all ?

Yes it is safe to drive in this condition, As its better to be running rich then lean. Most skylines run rich on idle, thats why you can see vapours comming out the exhaust. But once your put the motor under load it should be running the correct Air / fuel mix. But get your o2 sensor checked / replaced and it should fix the problem. If not the wire mite not be making a proper connection in the ECU loom. Get an auto elect to re-tap the wire.

I agree actually, I downloaded some more movies from that track day, with front wheel drive honda's and so on running low 9s. That supra that ran 7.9 just didn't seem rite.

Yes that was the aim, It is now our Project Car :-) As for your injector question ? Is it me or did that not make any sense... ??