BBQ

It depends on the RB26 Rods you are talking about, Are you doing stock Rb26 Rods or Forged rb26 Rods? I know that Stock rb26 rods fit, with out any problems and Crower Forged Rb26 Rods fit with out any problems into an Rb25 Block, You have to make sure you get stock rb25 bearings though. If you don't want to change your compression to much, then don't go 87mm bore. Go either standard bore size if you can find forged pistons to suit or just go .20thou over. And with a 1.2mm head gasket you will still be around the 8:5 to 8:3 compression region. I personally would go arias forged (stock Replacement) pisons, as they are identical to stock in terms of dish wisco pistons. Wich will have an impact on compression. You also have to look at other factors, Eg what size turbo you are bolting on and how much boost you want to run, to be able to determine the best size head gasket or the best suited bore size.

If you call 10psi Mass boost, when then I think you’re in trouble running 14psi. As that’s the biggest contradiction, Considering your running a stock Cooler, stock fuel system, stock computer, with a rb25turbo, (On a rb20) Running 14psi....... Ohh yer did I mention the Heat that your running it in !!! Your setting a good example, just like your comment. With a stock internal motor you can't expect to bolt on a bigger turbo, run more boost and keep the fuel system stock, it just not reliable. Bigger turbo = More Air, More Air, Needs more Fuel. If you keep your injectors stock gunmetal 33, and you do the turbo upgrade. I would like to see how long your car lasts until you are up for a re-build.

That’s the biggest understatement of the century... Theirs no point trying to up fuel pressure if your injectors can only flow stock amount. No matter how much you change it via a FPR, It’s still only going to pump 380cc into the motor, and if you think you can get 240 - 250kw out of stock injectors go for it. Because for the cost of $700 for an upgrade set, or for the cost of a re-build which you will be doing if you don't upgrade your injectors. I sure know which option I would go. Theirs no cheap way when you get to that point. You can't expect to bolt on a bigger turbo, and not upgrade your fuel system. Because it just doesn't work like that.

Have had experience with 2 Rb25det running lean with stock computers, Once more boost has been added. Melting stock internals. We had one dynoed at 14psi. With stock turbo, Stock inj, Front Mount, and Stock pump, And afr was 30:1. It only lasted a month or 2 after the dyno. Now re-buit with Forgies :flamed: This is what happens if you run it too lean: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...lt_number_6.JPG

I run Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60, does to the job for me, a little $$$ though...

Welcome to Cairns, Car scene is similar to down south now days, Skylines are breading like rabbits up here now.

If anything you would want it to run richer then leaner. As running an RB25det lean will cause your stock pistons to melt. If you are really that desperate to make it run lean, Buy a power fc, so you know exactlly how lean its running.

Pump received with no probs, Cheers Driftkng for the great deal on the fuel pumps.

The problem seems quiet clear; Replace the faulty coil pack, which will allow the car to run on 4 Cylinders. The reason its running rough, is because its not firing cylinder number 4, and the excess fuel is blowing out into the exhaust systems. Not to mention going though your ring lands and into your sump & mixing with your oil!!! A leek down compression test doesn’t seem necessary, I would fix the most visible problem first. Coil Pack.

To help you eliminate the process, Go by a cheep set of NGK copper plugs and replace all your Spark plugs, not just one. So then you are only down to, either coils, which you said you tested, or injectors. When you pull out the spark plugs see if they are all the same colour or if one (cylinder number 3 perhaps) differs from the rest? See how you go.

Your coil pack is faulty, causing it to run on 5 or less cylinders. Replace your coils. As you mentioned you had one split.

When doing a timing belt replacement, its good practice to replace the water pump, and the idler bearing & tensioner bearing, and fan belts, eg power steering, alternator, so on. As it’s much easier to do it now once it’s apart, especially water pump. Because you could get the timing belt changed and your water pump could die in one month’s time. And then it’s back into the garage pulling everything off again. Idler and tensioner bearings you can get at any bearing place (Alard Bearings), Cost any where from $60 on wards. And as for the timing belt just go genuine, cost should be around $100 for a timing belt. The biggest cost would be labor, as it’s a time consuming process. And that really depends on what your mechanic charges. Hope that helps.

How much Hp are they rated at ? and what sizes are their.. Ohh yer, thats a funny looking HKS turbo.

It’s easy to fix the noise problem, Have done so before, Rubber mount the surge tank with (rubber spacer places) and Sleeve the 044 Pump with a silicon sleeve, Doesn’t stop the noise, but reduces it dramatically. As for people wanting to put out series power, Its silly trying to run So Called "Bigger" walbro and bosh pump" in tank. If you have spent lots of money on engine setup, eg Internals, turbos, so on, Its really not that much more to put a newer "pump eg, Walbro or Bosch in tank to fill a Surge tank setup, with a Bosch 044 or 2 if needed. Because you won't get the same performance running a pump directly from the tank and trying to run 70 - 80 psi rail pressure. Theirs no cutting corners when it comes to EFI, as it can kill a motor easily if you get the slightest drop in pressure at 30psi Boost.

Oh well Good luck with your sale "doridori32" I'm still going with "driftKNG" as he can do it cheaper again then what you can. Considering its his original thread !! And it seems like your trying to steel his business, by come on and saying you can better the price. That indicates a "try hard to me." But that’s just my opinion.

2 Screwdrivers, put them into the sides of the injector and pop them out of the fuel rail.

Series 1 and Series 2 CAS for r33 GTS-T (rb25det) are interchangable.

Count me in, I will take 1, 044.

What computer are you running ? Stock ECU OR Power FC ?

I don't agree with the "Bigger Risk Between p's and opens"... So your saying that some one with a P's who is 23 and has been driving a skyline for 3 - 4 years and had more experience, compared to some one with an Opens, who has only had the car a month and no experience. It seems as though you are biased against P's going down the track ? why is that? and what is the whole point of this thread in the first place ?

Sounds like either, you havent turned off the boost controller kit on the fc, which is stopping the car starting. Or you have a problem with the wiring loom in your 33. I had a similar problem, which turned out to be the wiring. The stock ECU ran fine, As soon as I installed the FC, turn the igniton on and the relay switch in the boot would go crazy. Check the voltage at the power fc and it was only 7volts. I had to re-run a new 12 volts line from the batter up-to the ecu harness. and it worked fine. See how you go.

The trouble is the pictures is so dark its impossible for some one who has never done timing before to figure out which wire it is ! But apart from that, it’s a good thread. I’m just giving a 2nd way to do the timing as well. Better to have 2 options then one.