dangerous_daveo

Well after a quick search on the net, it seems they stuffed up the spelling, and the dude actually abducted old love, and didnt marry her! *shock*!

Cefiro is named after Chorn (??) a Soccls’ (sp?) word meaning ‘sneeze’ a ‘west wind which brings spring to the Mediterranean’ The origin of the word cortiles from Greek myth : ZEPHEROS. The god of the west wind, who is the husband of CHLORIS, the godess of envying (or evening not sure) I think anyway!

All I can say is crazy Japs, but its different!

What an insult to cefiros! R32 pfft (just remembers this is SKYLINES aust not cefiros aust, so I didnt mean it!) But dude, just get quotes from a few places, ask to see their work, normal stuff and full kits. I think if they cant get the basics right, they are unlikly to do tricky stuff right. And yeah, dont go thru someone who is going thru someone who is going thru someone to get parts, just go direct where posible.

Thats the white one correct? From memory a t66 or simlar size on it???

Nice one Mark. As Im a cheap barstard I'll go to the servo buy a donut and read the article

Ahhh haaa... And cost of that? $20k+???

The RB25 conversion would add up pretty quickly tho if you cant do that much yourself... But out of interest (sorry to highjack) but what would we call 'going stupid' on an RB20?

We can only hope not... BTW anyone want to by a cefiro

Im there. (hopefully that wont turn anyone off going...)

Be cool for braging rights tho!

From Autospeed I think... Turns out I was wrong, I was thinking suspension, go softer suspension so the tyre doesnt have to work so hard, mostly the tyre walls. Personally Id still stick to 17s at the max, I feel the sidewall movement, and the added air helps handeling on the street on rougher roads. " So, what about tyre pressure? Obviously, tyre pressure plays a very important part, but there are clearly limits on both sides of the tyre pressure equation. At the higher end, there is the maximum tyre pressure that can be sustained before there is damage to the carcass. At the low end, you don't want the sidewall almost collapsing, generating massive heat, and have the tyre slipping on the rim. So, you can play around with tyre pressures to optimise your set-up, but there are limitations. A simple way to find out approximately what pressure is optimal for your combination is to draw a chalkline across the width of the tyre, drive for a bit, and look at the wear pattern of the chalkmark. Wearing more quickly in the centre indicates pressure that is too high, and wear on the edges indicates too low a pressure. One issue to consider is that, for wet weather driving, despite what you may have heard, it is better to increase your tyre pressure, not reduce it. The reason is that there is a relationship between tyre pressure and the speed at which there is the onset of aquaplaning. In the Imperial system, the equation is 9 times the square root of the tyre pressure. So, if your tyres are at 25 psi, if you drive into a puddle that is deeper than your tread depth, you will aquaplane at 45 mph (72 km/h), whereas if your tyre pressure was 36psi, you would aquaplane at 54 mph (87 km/h). The advantages are obvious. As far as tyre profile is concerned, the main benefit is one of handling - the lower sidewalls give reduced sidewall deformation under lateral loading, which results in improved steering response and a more stable contact patch. Conclusion Summarizing, what factors are important in terms of tyre grip? Tyre width has no direct relation to the amount of grip generated; it is a secondary factor, and the width basically relates to cooling potential and so the tyre compound that can be used. The size of the contact patch has no bearing on the amount of grip generated at all, apart from the extreme of where the compound is getting so hot that it no longer acts as a solid (and therefore doesn't follow Amonton's Law). The tyre pressure has no direct bearing on the level of grip (apart from aquaplaning), but it does have a bearing on the heating and cooling characteristics of the tyre. Having a lower tyre profile gives improved handling through reduced sidewall stress and improved contact patch shape stability." Hope that helps.

Yes and no... As far as I can remember there are other things playing in that equation. Such as I seem to remember more air in the tyres make you faster, less air is more grip off the line. Such as at speed the tyre isnt going to have the same characteristics as it would when the car isnt moving, and this I would think would be effected also by tyre size, (ie wheel size).

Ditto, but I have DBA 4000 slotted disks and RB74 pads. Id have a look at the maxima disks and calipers hey, I cant see them being better than the R32 items. (ie 4 pots)

I think you call it REALLY FAST!!!

Got anymore pics of where the rear middle light bit is painted???

You should be able to get mod plates for most of the stuff anyway, just as back up.

I do belive you hit the nail on the head. I doubt that car would be forsale cheap, and if it was you would wanta rock up with large sums of cash money

Now I took my shoes off to work this out ok... And Im pretty sure we have one too many cefiros in this equation...

I rarely see these round lights... What do they come on?

Two right they are!

If I was a seller, trying to dodgy a deal... I personnally wouldnt be telling you that it was a bogus deal.

LoL man thats the 2nd funnies thing I have heard today!

Mine was $15k with rego, 3rd party insurance etc (I went 12months rego too) But then mine is also factory manual, etc, and got stuff done properly (I now see that in hindesight, thanks Nico!)

Ok, whos with me, we all donate money to Ni to keep the car, and for that we get to drive it on track days etc? Whos in favour?!?