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Build will commence on the 17th of December 2011 (End of exams) Abstract: A young scientist with an ECR33 Skyline probably going to report a whole heap of failures. Introduction: While my projects goals are not very ambitious, hard to attain or unique my ECR33 is now my science experiment which makes this build a little more unique than others. My R33 will feel the brunt of all the ideas which come into my head out of curiousity or plain boredom. My style will be very unconventional and probably will get a lot of "why's?" the answer for all those people thinking of asking that question is "I want to see what happens". Infact this build is probably more about educating than anything else. Think of it as R&D without too much of the D. I will be doing strict quantitative analysis of my modifications where possible rather than simply piling on the modifications. Power modifications will be tested using Street Dyno. Aerodynamic modifications will be tested using pressure gauges. Handling modifications will be tested by putting the car under load of itself while on stands. Expect many photographs. Oh yes! I also have very little money and will be doing this work in my Mum's garage just to make it interesting. Goals/Wishlist + Few ideas: Power/Engine: 220 < 'x' < 300 kW at the wheels Largest area under the curve possible. Lots of torque, High efficiency. Attention to thermodynamic details. Highly responsive - Full boost at < 2500 RPM Ceramic coating Aerodynamics: Slippery, exploiting pressure differentialsLowest drag possible - reduced wake. Positive pressure cold air intake. Improved down force . Tweaked under bonnet air flow. Exploit the ground effect. Cosmetics: Mild - avoid attention, make everything straight again Clean engine bay with desired scheme. Braided lines where possible. Paint brake callipers Interior:Black and double red stitching leather seating. Recondition interior pieces. Handling: Lots of grip, very little load and a lot of safety. Custom Road Legal Roll cage!?! Front and rear strut brace and adjustable sway bars. Wheel alignment for performance. Slotted brake rotors and high performance brake pads. Electronics: To satisfy the mind. Improved alarm system. Wolf ECU! K-Type Thermocouple sensors. Control panel Audio: To satisfy the ears and not to weigh down the car Relocate amplifier to boot false floor. Install an infinite baffle subwoofer in the boot standing vertically perhaps. Method: I have some ideas written down on how I wish to achieve all the above but it really looks like a wish list more than anything else. I do not have the funds to be able to structure this build such that I have a set method from the begining so alternatively I will be updating section as I go. Keep in mind, this car is also my daily drive along with my motorcycle. Improve handling with chassis stiffening: Ladder bars and Strut Braces Improve power with better boost control: Jaycar IEBC Improve power with a better intake: Cold air box + RAM Air intake! Improve everything with weight reduction: Start a ******* diet. Results: None yet Analysis: Nothing to analyse yet. Conclusion: Don't let me near your car. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Pictures: The car when I bought it in 2008 for my Birthday, totally stock at this stage. Since then, I haven't really done much to it other than tack on stuff - I want to change this with this build ideally. This is somewhat what the engine bay looks like now. As you can see, FMIC but the hot air intake is a problem. I have a 3" 5zigen exhaust and high flow cat installed already. I also have Bilstein shocks and King Springs and 17" Drifteks with good federal rubber. My motorcycle I will be riding around when the car is out of business. (Honda MC22 CBR250RR) This is the strut brace and ladder bar I intend to install soon and do testing, I also have an adjustable rear strut brace. Jaycar IEBC, this one I made a while ago and it failed. I have a working one now: I will attach more pictures when/if this build gets approved.

That's the thing though. I've seen these in person and as Carbon 34 said, the graphics for the icons and things are not very sharp which kind of kills the aesthetics (at least for me). It's like having a great looking mobile phone with the graphics of a gameboy color. As for an alternative; assuming you have an external amplifier - anything as long as it has the features you want, it's just an interface. People are less likely to break into your car and steal a standard looking headunit too. Practically has its own sort of appeal too. I would love to rock some sort of DIY headunit with a LED backlit 7 segment display and a couple of buttons all put together in a hobby box playing music from an SD card with an AM/FM radio. In the end however it is your car and your choice, but seriously take your pick they all work and some look quite nice: http://www.jbhifi.co.../mp3-cd-tuners/

Bumperoo.

+1 on the Turbotech boost tee, I got one lying around that I can send to you for $20 + postage. Held 12 PSI right to red line no fuss. I upgraded to a Jaycar IEBC now. More on topic though, IIRC you use a restrictor on the feed from your intake to reduce spiking.

So in conclusion these turbos are less reliable than magical fat burning devices shown on infomercials? That's a pitty, I liked all the features it offered which made it sound like a simple quality upgrade. Any words from Borg Warner and Full Racing regarding these failures?

Highly likely. Though you could probably just buy something a lot cheaper if that's all you're after.

For sale. Location: Brisbane 4116 I will post at buyers expense. All reasonable offers considered must sell by 16th of December Items: 2 x 12" Alpine Type R Subwoofers in Box; I bought these a while back and didn't like the amount of boot space they took and since have been lying around. - $450 Alpine 4x40w Amplifier 3531S with loom; Came with the car from Japan, since upgraded it worked a charm when in and can fit easily under a seat. - $70 Alpine 7982J 3 CD Stacker + Radio (Jap frequency range); No inbuilt amplifier, has the ability to turn the back light between orange and green also has the ability to be attached to an external stacker. - $10 Pictures: Item 1: Item 2: Item 3:

I bought some off the shelf chassis stiffening to play and test with during this summer break. I also have some other simple "modifications" to do which aren't so much products but really things to do with your car. I am a Experimental Physics student so understand high quality quantifiable data - my R33 GTS-T is my experiment. I was planning measure quantifiable data when doing all my modifications over the summer anyway and I would very much enjoy being able share that knowledge with the public. Will you enable LaTeX support in this section of the forum?

For sale. Location: Brisbane 4116 I will post at buyers expense. All reasonable offers considered must sell by 16th of December Items: 2 x 12" Alpine Type R Subwoofers in Box; I bought these a while back and didn't like the amount of boot space they took and since have been lying around. - $450 Alpine 4x40w Amplifier 3531S with loom; Came with the car from Japan, since upgraded it worked a charm when in and can fit easily under a seat. - $70 Alpine 7982J 3 CD Stacker + Radio (Jap frequency range); No inbuilt amplifier, has the ability to turn the back light between orange and green also has the ability to be attached to an external stacker. - $10 Pictures: Item 1: Item 2: Item 3:

Pitty nothing for an R33 GTS-T. A brake upgrade is always welcome.

Location? When you decide to part the car out; I'll take the AFM and Throttle Body.

Cheers Moodles2, The pin out lead me straight to the power steering solenoid which I can tap into pretty easily then. So this goes between the fail safe valve and does something there. I also did some research finding that 'fail safe' mode locks the speed sensitive power steering assistance to that of which is approximately at 176km/h from this thread on Skyline Owners. However if that was the case, it would be a pretty crappy system if it simiply just cuts that off - does anyone know what's inside of it? I'm going to try simply unplug the actuator controlling the rear wheels to see if any HICAS fault codes come up as a simple way to stop the rear wheels from moving. The more I learn about HICAS the more I think it's a stupid idea to try mess with the speed input to the ECU to try control the system manually. So feature three is completely out of the question... for now.

+1 To reach your power goal, I highly suggest you read. There's a lot of knowledge on this forum alone. Mate, for 300rwkw you will need bigger injectors, with bigger injectors you need a bigger fuel pump then you will need a bigger turbo and more boost, which leads to you needing a bigger exhaust and bigger intercooler and you will new AFM's. Which means you need a much bigger budget. Don't forget you need to get a tune on top of that too. It skyrockets.. But really if it's just a turbo under $2000, take your pick. Garrett and Borg Warner have just released new turbos - there's threads in this forum which are many pages long and with posts only a few days old in them.

Hello, I am interested in modifying HICAS to behave in a more controlled way. I've done a search for it and the closest thing I found was a thread from 6 years ago which is very interesting but all the pictures are now dead. =( So I was wondering if anyone has any experience, advice or an ECU pinout for the R33 HICAS ECU in English. =P Things I would like to try implement at this stage: 1. Switch to toggle HICAS 4WS while still retaining power steering. 2. Modify speed sensitive power steering much like this. Since the 4WS system is quite advanced I don't really want to f**k too much with how it behaves when it's running, it does the job perfectly fine on the street. *3. I might consider doing is trying to make the rear wheels turn opposite to the front wheels at very low speeds to assist parking; however as I uneducated on how the HICAS ECU works at the moment I'm not sure if this is possible or advisable. Maybe have a switch/toggle all this. Why? Well 1. Is arguably cheaper/easier/better than a lock bar. 2. Personally preference really, I can move my steering wheel with my pinky at the moment and I find that too light. 3. Funzies? Have you ever tried the HICAS diagnostic mode when the rear wheels move when the car is stationary, it feels funny. xD

So it is proven possible. Thanks for the reply GTRNUR. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or knowledge for a rebuild. Otherwise this could have been a great project for me over the university summer holidays. I always hear great things about how these engines drive.

Total thread hijack awaits. But I don't think there's enough info on low power hybrid motors. Is a hybrid motor a reasonable upgrade for someone with little money wanting to make no more than 250rwkw but rather have a better area under the power curve?

Wind boost down to a dead stock level by running boost pressure straight to the actuator just to test. Google will have lots of info on the throttle position sensor, it's worth checking your throttle body. Though if it can rev to redline in neutral very quickly with WOT though I would imagine it's not throttle body problem and more of a "tune" problem. If you reset your ECU with a paper clip like in the how to on the sticky in the forced induction section it will give you self diagnostics by flashing the check engine light slowly "x" number of times and quickly "y" number of times to give you an error code "x,y" that can help you diagnose if it's a faulty sensor. EDIT: Resetting ECU: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/2879-resestting-ecu/page__view__findpost__p__3262978 Error Codes: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/2879-resestting-ecu/page__view__findpost__p__1699249

Hello Dre678, I can tell you it's not a faulty AFM as when they go bad the R33 ECU (At least in my car) won't let the car go past 4500 RPM and it's a hard jolt like hitting a rev limiter. I would be more inclined to think it's related to boost at the moment as 2000 rpm is around when the stock turbo kicks in. Can you drive high RPM low boost? i.e. Very little throttle, Low gear. But really I know nothing more than it's not a faulty AFM. You can try an ECU reset, it's completely harmless. (Check the forced induction quick reference guide) Cheers

Double post? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378840-volvo-740-gle-wagon-1989-syd/

Bump>>

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To the top!

Bump; make an offer.

Hey Dan, Are LED Parkers bright enough to potentially be used as indicators? If they're orange of course.

Try put your maths in code tags; it should come out a little better.