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While I don't have numbers, I've noticed after doing this I swear I can feel a noticeable temperature change from the start of the unshielded crossover pipe, to the throttle body and from the throttle body to the manifold. Obviously this means a considerably lower temperature in the pipes. I do really want to bypass the coolant feed to the throttle body too. I got a small thermocouple I can use to measure the temperatures I'll do it when I can, I have an exam in 12 days I have to study for now though. Out of curiosity, what is your theory resulting in a hotter charge? EDIT: BTW for those who are interested the pipes look pretty good now they're installed, you can see the pics in my garage.

I'm terribly sorry, you are wrong. He is right. You are wrong, wrong, wrong I suggest you shut up and not confuse the OP. Holy shit man you are just so wrong.

I was in the same position as you, I didn't want anything remotely ricey. I bought some pure white LED's from Dan here, they look really nice and clean. I did my AC lights while I was at it as well and it does too make quite a difference, easy install is a bonus. Inexpensive too! EDIT: Those are my dials that 666DAN linked, I went all out going white everything - the boot light is great. I love the industrial feel of it.

Surely there should be a way you can trick the ECU to make it do this.. Have you ever tried the HICAS diagnostics? Your rear wheels move when you're turning your wheel at a stand still, it feels so weird. I've never felt it do anything in my R33 in those situations, the light doesn't come up either. I thought it only engages over 80km/h and under extreme turning essentially inducing oversteer then attempting to straighten it up just afterwards so you can make sharper turns. People always tend to complain about it, but I think it sounds quite cool and would be useful after getting used to it - even though I've never experienced it before.

+1 I like the look of the Nissan Gloria/Cedrics, comes with a VQ30DET engine and aren't that expensive from what I've seen.

Wow, some of you guys have really slow connections. I hope you're not paying too much!! Excluding the people who are testing their work/uni connections I think I'm the fastest thus far? My home connection TPG ADSL2+ $70 for 150GB / month via wireless, old plan should upgrade. EDIT: Will, what connection is that? Your upload is > 1mbps! BTW, This is UQ

I'm guessing so...

Off topic but personally, I'd prefer an R32 GTS-4 over a GTS-T it's the same engine. You can easily over ride the 4WD in the R32's and install a switch. Back on topic. You will find that those are the tail lights for the four door R32. Quick full forum search for "r32 four door lights" finds this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...our+door+lights Not that I don't like the sedans or anything, but if you'd like a coupe I'm pretty sure you can get the R32 GTS-4 in a coupe too. Not to say you can't change the tail lights and have a four door, just if you'd like something a little more sporty. =)

Nice Jap prestige! Something different to everything else in the thread.

Damn they're nice! Though I thought the C210 had box headlights, is it only the GT-EX that has headlights like a C110? How much a C110 or C210 cost, are they importable? Love those hot plate tail lights.

Careful! Don't want this thread being deleted for pornography! Birds: Tragic to hear it's gone! rgr34: How does it treat you as a daily?

Good move. I saw a Tommy parked at uni (UQ St Lucia) last week. These things sure look unique.

Nice. I only manage to get 1450awkw with the same mods. What brand sub?

You do realise you could get fined for commuter parking in a shopping centre right?

Pics!

From wiki Datsun 1200 Coupe: Looks like a 120Y coupe to me is that what they sold it as here in Australia or something?

So hot!! That TA-22 looks mint!

I say sell it, an engine swap will prob require you to get mod plates and probably isn't worth it. Unless you're going to swap with something way cool/different. like a VQ30DE maybe? Don't know how P plate friendly that is though...

Hey, Post your favourite 1970-early80's Japanese car. You know like your Datsun's, old Toyota's stuff in that generation of Japanese cars. Categorise in: -Performance -Looks -Practically (A car that everyone on the road had and treated them good) I'm just starting to look into cars of this generation and so far like what I see. My favourite so far in the looks or maybe performance, Datsun 240z:

Nissan March Superturbo! 900cc Turbo+Supercharged. Or turbo charge a K10 or 1L K11 Micra. These things can go surprisingly quick so it seems. I wonder how light you could get an R32 after removing pretty much everything that makes the Skyline different from a Silvia. EDIT: Also, out of curiosity if you had an SR20VE could you use the ITB's from the GTIR's SR20DET?

*bump*

OP, I just checked your latest garage image. Your engine definitely is an RB20E. WOW! This is definitely news to me.

Thanks a lot for this, made changing my bulbs to LED's a breeze. I noticed when I was trying to put the dash back in it would have been easier if the steering column was undone as the bottom corner of the driver sides ac vent clips it. If you're going to open your steering column, don't forget the screw underneath the lever.

AFAIK, only the R32's had RB20DE's in them.. And only earlier than that did they have RB20E's in them. The R33 Series II GTS should have an RB25DE VCT in it. It should be written on your engine's cam covers (I think) either RB25 or RB20. Or if the plastic covering your coil packs says 2500 it's an RB25. It's the black one that goes down the middle here. I think you're going to be finding that you have just got an instant mental engine swap, though it doesn't change anything I said earlier except you have an extra 500cc and variable cam timing. ^^

Pretext: Don't be afraid to rev your RB20, but please as Kinks suggested be responsible. Like don't go fooling about on wet roads or speeding with a car full of people. It's surprisingly easy to die or kill people; you do not have air bags. Okay now. I say don't bother rebuilding until your engine's really stuffed. An engine rebuild is nothing minor, anything engine related is not minor - I say don't bother right now. An engine swap will require you to get an engineers certificate for it to be street legal - not simple. Try keep your car completely street legal, you don't want to get in trouble with the police on your P's at all otherwise you'll be left burning ring on your backside. Get everything else brought back to its former glory - your car is about 15-20 years old now, get everything else other than the engine like new or better. Get after market braided brake/clutch lines - there's a group buy and a business selling these on the forums for less than $200 and they're perfectly street legal. This will make your brakes feel really nice and tight, it will make your ride feel more exciting. High quality engine oils can also really free up an engine. Get your car generally serviced every 5000km. Change your fuel filter, it's cheap to replace. Also change your spark plugs to NGK iridium or platinum (but check with the NA guys here first =P). Get all this done in one go. Then maybe get the pros to tighten up your suspension little and buy some GOOD tyres. It will make the car a lot more enjoyable and feel really quick and responsive. Tyres provide the greatest performance boost/dollar. Personally, I think stock rims look better than buying some other non Japanese rims so I wouldn't bother sinking money there until later, just nice beefy tyres to fit your rims would look mean. Buy a high flow panel filter too, it's inexpensive and will give you more torque/power. Don't get a pod filter it's not always street legal, you'll just end up in more trouble and there's no benefit you actually lose power. Try not to add too much weight to your car either: Drive with 3/4 of a tank of fuel, don't get a massive sound system, don't buy 20" rims, remove the toolkit (I hope you have roadside assist, a P platers best friend), have less friends etc... You can get your tyres filled with helium at certain places too; though I've never tried this, it should be some weight reduction. Also, clean your car regularly and wipe down (with a very soft cloth) any dust/dirt/crap that builds up on the car while you drive it when you get home. This reduces friction and air resistance. Check out the stickies in the cosmetic/styling section. The R32 is awesome as is, it's faster than and looks better than a handful of cars already and has a sick note. What I mentioned above will make your car a hell of a lot more fun (and quicker and safer) to drive than anything you could probably do (or should) to get more raw kilowatts. Maybe in a year or a bit more after you've done everything above upgrade your extractors/cat/exhaust. Don't bother with a canon, it's useless. Do everything above first though! EDIT: Wait... R33 Series 2 with an RB20DE???