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I'm looking for something with a twin pipe muffler/design. And 3.5" is a little too large for my liking, I don't want something too loud. Thanks though.

R33 GTR looks like a Jap muscle car, I reckon it looks sexy and damn menacing. It also looks like it might even pass off as being classed with family sports cars; until you dump the clutch at 4500 rpm. You can't really compare the styling to either the R34/2. With that said, I like anyone else on this forum would like any GTR..

I've been running K&N for a while now and my AFM is hella clean, absolutely spotless. I'm not really a fan of paper filters, I held one of those ryco filters up to a light once and could easily see many holes which shone through too much light for my liking. I was told just not to completely drench it in oil and you can always clean your AFM when you decide to service your filter - it's a good idea anyway. AFAIK, you could always run them dry if you really wanted?

bump.

What I think doo_doo is saying is that while everything is true. You also have to remember the flow is determined by the exhaust side, not the turbine side which takes care of the pressure. Opposite sides of the engine. I think what mad082 said on the first page expands on this well.

Still looking for this. bump.

fixT... Another way of looking at this is the conservation of energy. Think of pressure as density energy. The turbo only has so much energy. Pressure + Kinetic NRG + Gravitational potential NRG = constant P + 0.5dv^2 + dgh = constant Where: P = Pressure d = density v = velocity g = acceleration due to gravity h = height Now let's compare two turbo's, one flowing twice as much as the other. _T1 = small turbo _T2 = large turbo. In both cases the GPE is the same as it follows the same path, so they cancel each other out. Density is the same in both situations, so to simplify it a little further, I'll remove that from both sides too. This is the law, obey! P_T1 + 0.5v^2_T1 = P_T2 + 0.5v^2_T2 = Constant Because we're such law abiding citizens here, Remembering that the larger turbo flows twice as much as the smaller one, so the velocity of the air inside the larger one is half that of the smaller. (Or the velocity in the smaller is twice that of the larger). 0.5v^2_T2 = 2*(0.5v^2_T1) 0.5v^2_T2 = v^2_T2 If you don't understand this, think about it this way. You want to transport 100 apples through a tube, you have a deadline (no more no less) of 100 seconds to do this. So the flow rate needs to be 100 apples / 100 seconds. If your tube only fits one apple you need to move the apples at 100 apples per second, if your tube fits 2 apples you move your apples at 50 apples per second to achieve the same amount of flow. If you move 2 apples at a time at 100 apples per second like you were doing with your smaller tube, you're doubling your flow rate, moving on! Lets look at turbo's making 20 psi: 20 psi + v^2_T1 = 20 psi + 0.5v^2_T2 = constant You can see, to make 20psi the larger turbo has to move the air at twice the velocity (and in turn twice the flow) as the smaller one. That's twice as much air going into your engine, therefore more power per increase of pressure. Another thing this law shows you is that if the same amount of air is flowing, the larger turbo will produce half the pressure. 20 psi + 0.5v^2_T1 = 10 psi + 0.5v^2_T1 = constant You can also easily show that faster moving air is lower pressure generally using the conservation of energy. P + 0.5v^2 = constant Double the velocity, in order to keep the constant you must half the pressure. P + 0.5v^2 = constant = P/2 + v^2 Simple enough isn't it!? =)

I have a method that I always follow to get back at the fuel companies for crap like this. 1. Check if the person before you has emptied their hose of fuel, if no you gain an extra 20mL or so! 2. Fill up to either $xx.x2 or $xx.x7 so you can get an extra $0.02 of fuel for free! 3. Always when done empty the fuel hose into your tank (another extra 20mL!), careful not to waste any that didn't come out - leave that little amount for the next person. 4. Never use the preset function as it slows down the pump nearing the preset amount of money hindering you from doing (3) and you can't set cents so it hinders you from (2) 5. Always fill up well after sundown as the fuel is slightly more dense so you get more actual fuel per litre. I feel slightly more content after doing all this at the bowsers. BTW if you use discount coupons it gets more much more complicated with step 2. EDIT: Has anyone tried Freedom 98 e10?

bump.

Looks cool, got a linux version? Or am I forced to use wine? Doesn't run in Wine. =(

I think you're right. I was thinking a lot about vortex tubes at the time and the number 1,000,000 rpm was in my mind. Then there's the DUAL Supercharger Turbo Air Intake Fuel Saver Fan which maybe spins even faster. </off topic>

While I'm confident working with acids, I'm not so confident with the removing of fuel tank/lines etc. I have no idea where they are let alone how to, but it I suppose it would be simple enough - considering the time involved it'll probably be heaps cheaper and maybe worth the additional effort if I do it myself. I suppose a radiator shop could do it all if I wanted? Has anyone had any experience with any in the Brisbane SE area? A Google came up with this stuff locally as a fuel tank liner http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/red_kote.php anyone have experience with that stuff?

Hey guys, I need help! My car stutters when past 4500rpm and fuel filter was filled with rust so I figured I probably should get my tank cleaned. Does anyone know who I can take my car to in order to get my fuel tank cleaned? Also out of curiosity do you think it would be expensive? Thanks

Hey, I'm looking for a Fujitsubo cat back exhaust, the twin pipe design that goes 3" -> 2 x 2.5" to suit R33 GTS-T like the top one in this picture: I'm in Brisbane, so that would be ideal otherwise I'm willing to pay postage. Contact via PM or reply here.

True, I have an Monsta eBay front mount because all it is essentially is is a massive heat sink not much could go wrong other than it being less flowing or effective than a hybrid or ARC. But for something that spins at a million RPM I personally would want to make sure it's of high quality as more of a safety precaution than anything. I haven't destroyed any turbo's yet but I imagine it could get pretty nasty... And as Paul said, it's more about the product as opposed to where it was assembled. The most important computer parts that we're typing away on right now are (and have been for at least a decade) actually created in America with the less critical stuff from mainland China. With the exclusion of Taiwan, but I think that was more of a western push originally. my 2c edit: gramMar

Last time I checked, china aren't on the cutting edge of turbo charger technology. Case in point: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DUAL-Supercharger-T...=item3cacdb3909

z32 x4 These thing are fkn sexy imo! I would love to drive one to see how they compare to the skylines.

I wouldn't worry about that (though I think it is the only reason why that the coolant feed is there. What you're saying is somewhat true, but you're forgetting that the volume of air increases as you let off the throttle and the bov opens allowing the volume to increase. So as long as you're not sucking in air at close to 0 degree's I wouldn't worry. pV=nrT T=pV/nr n and r are constant in both situations. So we're basically left with boyles law, T=pV On boost T=2*1=2 Off boost T=1*2=2 Pressure in atmospheres (so 1 bar on boost) and I used 1L for the volume for demonstration. Boyles law from wiki: Back on topic, Doing this mod doesn't seem all that bad for conditions here in Australia. In Japan I'm sure it would get pretty nippy (I don't know for sure though!) but unless you live in Tassy or other places where the temperature drops down to less than 5 or 4C it should be okay. Manufacturers make their cars to be as reliable as possible in all situations but here in Australia we are blessed pretty awesome (predictable) temperatures, I know when I was in the (ages ago) NT at Jabiru some cars came with a snorkel like thing to suck hot air from inside the engine bay to warm the engine up faster on freezing cold days.. The first thing you when you're up there is remove this! How much it'll do, I don't know..

So the internal gate is just sitting there? Not dissing your design at all just wondering; promising looking turbo. I'm not too sure if the gate will work or is the best solution since I don't see how much different from an internal waste gate plumbing back like that other than the fact the external waste gate can probably accommodate for larger volume of gas but AFAIK it really shouldn't be necessary at this power range. And even then, you're just putting the gas back into the turbo housing again anyway? (correct me if wrong) I think it's that the exhaust housing is too small to accommodate for the engine at the higher revs and boost in the current situation and therefore it chokes at the turbine side of the turbo. If you want to keep the responsiveness (which I definitely would like to see) then increasing the size of the rear housing is out of the question or really makes things much more complicated at least. Though, have you thought of methods of moving the air out of the turbo faster? I mean, could it be as simple as a better front/dump pipe, cat, exhaust? Dyno running with no dump pipe/front pipe just to test can confirm/disprove my hypothesis. To add to the discussion regarding boost/power in earlier gears in the previous pages of this thread. My understanding is that an engine will suck up an amount of air equal to: V_air / minute ~= Displacement x RPM x Absolute pressure And proportionately an amount of exhaust fumes is produced. So no matter what gear you're in the turbo will behave the same. It is true that a turbo might not be able to spool up fast enough in the lower gears though. Also, from my understanding, gears ratio's smaller than 1:1 (engine:gear) you're multiplying the amount of torque (rotational acceleration) at the wheels. This is why they dyno your car in fourth gear (1:1). So you can comfortably say when you have 200kw ATW, you have 200kw's + unknown amount of power lost due efficiencies at the engine. Without having to do a chunk of maths. i.e. ATW_Power = Flywheel_Power - (Work / sec) Work in this case is the drive train. What all that means is that it doesn't matter what gear you're in when it comes to the performance of the engine and consequently turbo. My 1c

Ahh touche, so no benefit. Back the drawing board. I think I've got a new idea on what to do. Thanks all.

Bumping an old thread... But I just did this today to pass the weekend. The smaller pipe is normally hidden so I started on that for practice by the larger pipe I got the idea. I found it easier and neater to wrap around then snip and then over lap it with the next strip; just make sure you make the snip on the part that is not visible easily and it'll look nice. Used almost all 10m's of it. Also, I noticed if you angle away from a bend to begin with and by the end of it'll be facing the other direction. That info helped me get it looking a little neater/even by the end of it. i.e: if the bend is an: L Then if you're starting from the horizontal part, start the strip like this: \ and once it wraps around it'll be in this direction: / I'm also painting them black to stop it from standing out so much it holds paint quite well, I was almost tempted not to because it does look pretty damn cool - like something off a space craft . The paint isn't completely done yet, I'm going to smooth it out a bit and re coat it tomorrow for a nicer finish. I left the bend out of the intercooler untouched as you can see it through the black mesh of the type m front bar which looks quite nice. Pics below: Before: After: Paint:

lol it was actually your write up that really got me thinking! "Why would I really need to cut that hole bigger?" I understand a CAI essential goal is to get cold air into the intake (duh ) but I'm thinking about intakes in general though as I want to rework the stock airbox snorkel as it won't fit with my custom IC piping anyway. Without spewing out too much maths, with a smaller intake the air travelling through the intake will be moving at a higher velocity no matter what speed the car is going at. It's the conservation of mass/energy, hypothetically and ideally (which means ignoring compression/other forces, so this may sound weird) say the engine is breathing at at a rate of 10 oxygen molecules per second - if you have an intake that can only fit 1 oxygen of molecule at a time that is 1 metre long, each molecule has to move at 10m/s as the engine demands 10. If you have an intake that can fit 2 molecules the oxygen has to move at 5m/s. Thinking a little bit further, the turbo would have to do more work to convert the kinetic energy into density though. Past the basics, my knowledge on how an engine works is very limited so I'm really uncertain, and at most curious if it would effect the responsiveness or not; forgetting about ph4t boost *gasp* for a second.

Hey, A this could be a pretty stupid intake question. I'm thinking of a CAI to replace the stock snorkel and then I got thinking, now I am in two minds when it comes to the diametre. I am not an engineer or auto mechanic but have a general understanding of fluid mechanics. Bernoulli's theorem tells me that a smaller intake would mean the air would come through at a higher velocity maintain the required CFM wouldn't this in turn make the turbo spool quicker and improve response? I understand if you have it dramatically smaller than that your IC piping you're increasing the risk of compressor surge (where the pressure in the IC hosing is higher than that before the turbo in the intake and the air attempts to go back out the intake). But what is the advantage/reason of having an intake larger than that of your IC piping wouldn't it be better to have it just slightly smaller?

If you mean the fins, rubbing back and polishing would be almost impossible to get a nice finish. What material is the IC made out of? IIRC Anodizing is generally a method used with Alluminium to thicken the natural oxide layer making it more durable, doesn't effect shine. However, you could electroplate it. It would probably tell a hell of a long time, but you could even plate it gold (real gold) if you wanted. This would be pretty cool as you'll coat the fins too. It is possible to do this at home, but I really shouldn't recommend it. Maybe google some commercial electroplaters (or just platers) in your area. Remember though, dull/dark surfaces radiate heat better than shiny/reflective ones. Though if you don't want the fins to be super shiny, is there a reason you want to keep your GTR cooler? Shiny FMIC's are as little as $200, the fins would be a clean metal but not reflective.

I understand intelligent I.D to tackle fraud, you use your drivers licence to open bank accounts. I don't get the major hike in price here... GoCards are programmable/have data on them and cost like $5 or something. What's the extra ~$50 all about?