KiwiRS4T

Wot no snorkel? May as well leave the lid off. I like the OP's idea better. Some time ago I cut a hole in the front of the lid and ran a duct to behind the headlight. Thinking about runnng a duct from the vent where the smic used to be.

Got the restrictors here (bit expensive for what they are but not a lot of money): http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-442961050.htm I bought the RB30 block with the machining done so vct feed T-eed off oil pressure switch and I haven't touched it. No issues so far will let you know when i have hit the track.

I have just had my RB30 out (RB25 DET head with hydraulic lifters and vct). Installed 2 x 1mm restrictors (had 1.2mm) and left vct alone. Drilled and tapped 2 x 20mm holes in the sump and ran 2 hoses up to a catch can (1 might have done). Had some lifter noise on start up but it went away after a few minutes and has been fine. Oil no longer spurting out of head everywhere - have revved it in lower gears but haven't been back to the track yet. I don't think you need that drain from the back of the head but install a fitting for a sump breather while the engine is out - you can always plug it if you don't need it.

Debadged my S1 - will get the tailgate painted when I do the under mirror rust!

Can you post up some pics please - especially just with what is revealed when the rails are removed. Its on my list to do but not in my budget if you know what I mean!

There are a couple of threads in the Stagea section trying searching for R34 front or Masa conversion

How many times do I have to say it? The Auto Trans controller is in the main ecu in the passenger's side kick panel

The swapping of the wires on the CAS is because of the change from Hitachi to Mitsubishi CAS. I am not sure what you are proposing to do. If you have put the new engine in and you are going to put in the ecu and loom that came with it that won't change the fact that the plugs from the old gearbox don't match your new gearbox? The loom from the gearbox goes to the big plugs in front of the battery. If you look at the top diagram in my post #12 you will see that it shows where the looms from the gearbox run (more or less). If you could find someone that could read Japanese that would be a big help! If you are mechanically inclined I would be tempted to cut my losses at this point and look for a manual R33 GTR gearbox!

How is your Japanese? Some more diagrams:

Does your engine start and run? If you still have the original engine loom in the car you are probably best to use the original ecu. Changing the engine loom does not require removal of the engine but it is a right pain - you need to remove the aircond fan,abs unit etc. Is the car driveable? Does the auto work at all? Wiring the box in place is very difficult. You may be able to get at the wires on top of the box by dropping the rear mounts (may have to undo the radiator hoses I can't remember). Where do you live? You may need to get some expert advice from an automatic gearbox shop if you can find one who knows enough about Skylines. I have had a look at my Stagea manual - some plug diagrams:

I just ripped it out.

There is a small built in map sensor but for serious boost you just get a higher value map sensor (doesn't have to be the Link one - I have a GM) which is bolted in the engine bay. It is wired to the ecu and the vacuum line goes to the plenum. It is not a big deal - most plenums will have multiple take-offs or you can put one on - its not a major and is easily transferred.

It would seem that your new engine/gearbox is older than your car. If you have the loom and ecu with the replacement engine then that should not be a problem. Why did you do the swap? Was your engine stuffed? If your original gearbox was working ok put it back in the car and your plugs will connect up problem solved! If your old gearbox was also stuffed you will have to persevere with the rewiring at the box. I have a Stagea manual (in Japanese) but no pictures of the wiring as yet - I'll have another look. I ripped my auto box out a few years ago but there is a loom goes inside the box controlling shift solenoids there is one for the reversing switch and one down the back for the speedo sensor,

S1 ecu incorporates the auto ecu.

They are the same unit. Unless you are going to buy from the factory http://www.linkecu.com/ just get the Vipec from your tuner which will give him his dealer margin and make him feel better disposed towards you!

There are a few bogus 260RS for sale here but personally it doesn't worry me. So long as it has the RB26DETT, GTR box and LSD, 6 x 1 axles, Brembos and a proper manual console what more do you want? Momo wheel would be nice but they don't all have it. I don't particularly like the 260 rear wing or front bar and I prefer no rear steering (hicas). This one is not genuine but has the R34 front and could be made into a really nice car: http://www.trademe.c...px?id=441604571

Series 1 ecu incorporates the auto ecu which is why you can't simply swap it out with a PFC or Link. Series 1 ecus are numbered OV300, OV301, or OV310 of which the first is the most common. They are all similar but have slightly different looms. What is the part number on the new ecu?

Your problem is the tune. So many changes! - get that new ecu and drive very carefully to the tuner. I am very old school - leave the fpr standard, run in should take 30 minutes - get to your tuner asap. You don't mention new injectors and, if you are not getting a Link or similar, better afm.

Auto with an rb26DEtt? Don't bother. Get an R33 GTR box. You can use your auto console with a little adjustment - just need the gear lever and handbrake boots.

You could always try the diy section in the stickies above: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ but yes manual is handy!

Get some new copper plugs (you don't say what kind of Stagea you have) and give the coils a good clean and examination while you're at it. If its a C34 get a new O2 sensor from Kudos http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ngkntk-sensor-lambda-oxygen-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-p-42.html

Commonly used rule of thumb = 370hp or 277kw but as they say every car and every motor is different.

I have the Earls thermostat - solid piece of gear and lots of ports for sensors - I paid a lot more than $100 so that looks like a good price.

Just to clarify - you have a 1996 Stagea? Early 1997 were S1 later were S2 with Neo engine and tiptronic gear box. If you have bought a Neo then you will have to use the motor, gearbox, ecu and engine loom at least. You will also have to use the wiring for the auto and possibly change the steering column over. Also some S2 had lots of airbags so have a good look at the sensor to se if that is all the same as your current car.

As per Matt's post above it seems that the so called head drain doesn't (drain). I have just installed 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and drilled two 20mm holes in the sump and fitted 2 breathers (in theory one was going to be an oil return from the catch can if necessary but so far it seems to be working well with the 2 breathers. If you have an oil drain installed in the back of the head consider as an experiment disconnecting it from the sump and instead fitting a breather hose to the sump running either to atmosphere or to a seperate catch can. Also the design of the RB26 cam covers is quite different and if you have room for them on your engine they could also help (together with the Mines baffles).