KiwiRS4T

Well I think this is ideal:

I believe Toshi can source a daughterboard from Japan which will accept a chip. I think its a bit more expensive than Nistune but don't take my word - get the real facts from Toshi.

The size of the wastegate required depends on 1. The capacity of the turbo (more capacity bigger w/g) 2. The amount of boost you are going to run (more boost smaller w/g) 3. The position of the wastegate in relation to the collector and turbo ( try to give w/g priority) I have a 50mm wastegate coming straight off the housing of my GT3540:

Best to use your loom as the Stagea loom only suits the stagea ecu. Variable cam timing will give you more power in the midrange so its definitely. worth keeping. Your stock R32 ecu won't do so you need to either get a Z32 ecu (you need to read up on this to get it right) or get some kind of window switch to run the vct. Or if you have the Stagea ecu and you have a manual gearbox you can stick an R34 Link or Vipec in the manual ecu case (which is what I have).

Yes as above. Can spin the rears now but all I really want it for is when I go to the drags (for the first time) so that I can at least warm up the rears - I am not sure I have enough power to light up all four with 255 wide tyres!

OK and you have a series 1 and it was behind the kick panel and it worked? Thanks Bob Found it !!! small black plug fastened to a bigger loom - plug has single yellow wire with green trace socket has black wire!!!

OK just ripped out the kick panel but couldn't find any such switch/plug. Pulled out a few random plugs (all with more than 1 wire) but no good. Has anyone managed to do this on a Series 1 C34 and if so where did you find the plug and what were the colours?

R33 GTR boxes are reasonably common and shouldn't be too expensive.

That's a pretty good power figure for the stock smic. I've always said they were underrated. People used to go on about heatsoak but that was only ever a problem for me on the dyno - not on the street or track. Having said that I think the Blitz return flow is a good unit and you could wind your highflow up a few psi and you will notice a good power gain with no noticeable downside. You could save a few bucks by getting this one instead (the one I had) http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17355&cat=0&page=1 But if money is really tight you could carry on as you are until you are ready to upgrade.

The N1 pump in my RB30 runs at 140psi cold and 100psi hot at 100km/hr and idles at about 50psi. I am going to get a better oil pressure gauge to check but it does this with a couple of different grade of Motul that I have tried. I also had problems with oil filling the cam covers (and blowing out everywhere) but this seems under control since I fitted 2 x 1mm restrictors and two breathers from the sump to a catch can (no "oil drain" from the back of the head).

Cooling the air better is how they make more power. What are you comparing it with? Do you have a fmic now or the standard GTT smic? I had a Trust smic (bit bigger than the GTT one) on my Stagea making about 220awkw and changed to a Just Jap return flow making 240awkw with a GCG highflowed GTST turbo on about one bar. I didn't notice any increase in lag but then there was a power increase as well. I have now changed to an HDi Hybrid fmic with a Greddy copy FF plenum on an RB30 so can't notice any increase in lag or response. If you have the GTT smic now there will be no improvement in lag but it should be easier to make power. If you have a fmic now I doubt that you will notice any improvements.

I would assume that the S2 clutch pedal would fit perfectly. The reason everyone says R34 pedal is because Stagea clutch pedals S1 or S2 (I would expect they would be exactly the same ) are very rare and therefore not an easy option for most people.

2 1/2 should be good for around 300kw

All I can say is I live in Auckland and I have never heard of him. I went to Sinco Custom in Hamilton which is 100km away and paid $1600 for a manifold of similar quality to the Boost6 items. No-one in Skylines Downunder (my NZ club) has ever mentioned this guy although there are other fabricators in Auckland but I wouldn't think you would pay less than $1000 for a decent steam-pipe manifold. I can only guess that either the pipe is not as thick as others or its a complete scam or its the bargain of the century! NB I have just scrolled through his ebay feedback and he appears to have heaps of customers who think their manifolds are good value for money. This appears to be the store: http://www.trademe.co.nz/stores/xracing-motorsport/contact

Didn't see anybody say that.

No point in pushing the awd button when it is raining. Its only for low speed such as pulling out of a wet paddock or a snowbound car park At speed ( I think something over 20km/hr) the Atessa computer takes over anyway and will feed power to the front wheels as appropriate.

Who installed your new spec stage 5 clutch? Did it ever work or did it fail first time? Unless someone knows better it sounds like a gearbox out job and check installation.

Did you check to see if your mirrors dip down when you go into reverse?

What do you mean by a S1 RS4 - do you mean no turbo? If so you will have even weaker brakes but all the conversion stuff will be the same. I used an R34 clutch pedal I think but without the power booster so no recessing. Because of the Greddy copy FF plenum I had to use a stock R33 clutch master as the 33GTR or 34 one (I can't remember) was too long. That may or may not be the case with the RB26DETT plenum. Your brake booster will be fine (check that you have a BM50 brake m/c). I used the stock set up when I changed to GTT brakes (good idea for you) but left the booster but changed the brake m/c to an R34GTR one (BM57) when I fitted the D2s

The Stagea diff is 4.1 and your rear diff is 4.3 so you are going to have to change one. I would change the rear to suit the front so both 4.1 I would guess you now have more power than before so a slightly taller gear would be a good idea. My Stagea with 4.1 diffs is doing 2700 rev/min at 110km/hr. If I can find a non V-spec R34GTR diff I will be changing to 3.454:1 ( I have an RB30/25 with heaps of torque).

Do you have HiCas? Think twice before messing with the suspension and get some expert advice if you must (not Peddars or someone who just wants to sell you expensive parts but a proper suspension expert).

Your spring rates at 500lb seem off the planet. My Stagea, which would be at least 200kg heavier than your car has Bilsteins with Tein S Tech springs Front 3.1 (172lb) Rear 3.8 (213lb) I would guess your car will hardly touch the ground with springs as hard as you are proposing.

Recore + new top tank = new radiator. Just get a new stocker or a slightly thicker one from your local radiator shop.

Here's how to remove the heater core without pulling the whole dash out. I think someone has done this on a Stagea - I will be doing it soon! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/375433-removing-heater-core-without-removing-dash/page__p__6172518__hl__heater+core__fromsearch__1#entry6172518

You can't expect to buy an ecu and not tune it. You need to put it on a dyno anyway so while you are there you may as well pay for a tune. Not to do so would be very false economy.