KiwiRS4T

If you have installed the GTR loom than one end should plug into the GTR ecu and the other end wires go to the various sensors (knock, temperature etc) afms, injectors, CAS etc -what plugs do you want to swap? Have you told the workshop who is going to set up your engine that you have a Mines ecu? I doubt that anyone in the UK has the ability to tune a Mines ecu ( I could be wrong). In that case you would be better to rip the insides out and replace with a Link ecu or get an Apexi PFC. BTW if you are going to post some pics it is probably easier to use something like Photobucket to get them on this site. I will attempt to attach the Stagea RS4T pinout chart just to show that it is not suitable for an RB26DETT.And below is a pinout chart for the RB26DETT WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout translated.xls Pinouts -nissan-rb26dett.pdf

I got an R32GTR rear end in my Stagea both for the mechanical LSD and because the 6 x 1 half shafts are thicker than the R33 ones (other advantages are aluminium carriers and twin pot brakes although you will have to change the shocks).

Can you try dropping the exhaust first? I have a Venom 100 cell metal cat and would be interested to know if they do significantly reduce power. I believe they don't but hard evidence would be good! Need the cat for a cert but if they cost 50 -60 hp its days are definitely numbered! So far my RB30/25 is only making 220awkw at 15psi. I have been concentrating on fixing the oil control problem but have nearly sorted that and will concentrate on finding the power ( will be going to 18 -21 psi but should be making nearer 300kw at 15 psi

I don't quite understand what your question is. You have the GTR engine loom installed in your car? All the correct wires for the sensors, injectors, afms etc should simply connect. At the other end inside the kick panel you remove the Stagea ecu and install the GTR ecu and plug it in. Car should go. Are you trying to run the GTR ecu with the RS4T loom? BTW unless the Mines ecu came with the engine you bought (or even if it did) you will need to stick your car on a dyno to check timing, afrs etc as the Mines ecu might not be right for your set up. Let me know what wiring diagram you are talking about. I have a Stagea workshop manual (in Japanese but the diagrams can be understood). I can give you the pinouts for the RS4T ecu. But as I say I am at a bit of a loss to understand just what your problem is. Please try to provide a little more detail!

This is where I got mine from: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/core-engine/auction-452427460.htm

Get the welsh plugs, change the fluid, put in a bigger atf cooler and save up for a manual box!

I believe it was an R33 GTR - just used the m/c kept the Stagea booster. I'm not knowledgeable in this area - I presume the proportioning is elsewhere other than in the m/c?

^^^if your street tyres are ok you aren't going fast enough. I found that even with much better suspension (or perhaps because of much better suspension) my high performance street tyres would pack up after about 1 1/2 laps. Semi slicks were an improvement but a pain on the road so now I have some second hand slicks on a spare set of rims for the track. And yes better tyres and suspension will improve your stopping power (but not a cheap fix!).

I have Cusco Castor and front upper Camber arms on my S1 Stagea - they are the same parts as the R33GTR. I have 7deg castor and just on 3 deg neg camber front and rear. It doesn't sound much but it means the top of the wheels are leaning in about 25mm from the vertical and the car is cornering really well at the moment. I haven't tried it with my slicks yet but will be doing so on the 25th. i presume if you get an adjustable lower arm you will be able to get another few degrees if you want.

I have a Greddy copy (of course there are a number of different manufacturers of these) on my RB30/25 going well so far. I am using the stock fuel rail and fpr and also stock throttlebody (needs an adapter plate) but it will also accept a top feed rail if you want. The only problem was that it didn't leave room for my clutch m/c so I had to buy an R33 one - problem solved. Also had to move my battery and washer bottle (minor issues). If I had lots of money I would have put an RB26 head on my RB30.

Got no data but I put a BM57 from a GTR in my Stagea and used a Z32 TT repair kit to recondition it and all the bits looked the same. (Currently have 8 pot D2s in the front and GTR 2 pot rears).

Cheap fixes: are you using a high quality brake fluid like Motul RBF600 or similar? Make up some home-made ducting to direct air to your brakes

if you have the RB26 engine loom and ecu then you should be fine. Plug it in and fire it up - should soon see if anything is missing. To change the loom you will have to pull out the aircond fan on one side and posibly the abs stuff on the other. The GTR ecu should be 23710-24U00or 2371M - 24U00. Do you have one? If you don't here's one that should work: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-453346162.htm If you need it I can snd you the Stagea pinouts but really you need to use the GTR ecu.

Cutting my losses - buy for AU$59 posted.

Get some ID1000s. There are suppliers who will supply them fit for your set up. Do a search - I'm not in Aus but I have seen them come up in these threads regularly. BTW I have the stock rail on my Greddy copy FF plenum with 550 Deatschwerks injectors but in the future I am planning to go top feed with ID1000s when I go E85.

I have spent over $15k to make my car go fast so I can have some fun on the track. I am a truck driver so I can't afford to lose my licence on the road so drive within limits and as as not to attract attention. I can only afford to go to the track about once a month but when my car is sorted (nearly there) I will do some club racing (an 1800kg Stagea is never going to be competitive in the big league and I'm not that good anyway). If my street tyres last 25,000km I will be very happy. In fact the negative camber I run doesn't seem to be impacting too badly on the tyres. I have bought some timing gear and will record some times for Pukekohe and Hampton Downs for a start. I don't advocate heaps of negative camber for everyone - it just suits me for now.

4 afms? have you had a really good look at the plug/wiring going to it?

2 1/2 to 3 deg neg - its for slicks (Ex NZV8 series) - should have enough traction with awd. On the street I have 17 40 255 good quality rubber. But for expert advice ask Duncan - he's a real racer I'm just a wannabe!

You will need a turbo ecu at the least and preferably something tunable (say with a Nistune) or PFC Link etc

Never mind lightly hit it harder all the way round.

Yes there should be enough adjustment on the eccentrics for the toe-in. I am suprised people are buying adjustable camber arms to reduce negative camber. I got mine for the opposite reason - to increase negative camber for the track and so I can return it to normal when and if I stop tracking it.

Stock fan!

Nice pic - a rare sunny day!

The first one was Eno's!Try something like photobucket.

I have had two silver ones but (dark) green is now my favourite colour: