KiwiRS4T

Don't worry about it - people routinely chuck in a bit extra for the track.

Don't think so mine was just winched up. If you can find a couple of round fence posts (probably not if you're in the city) you can drop it off the stands on to them or just some bits of plywood or even some long planks if you want to protect your floor.

Stageas are gas guzzlers with the stock turbo let alone a highflow. If your budget is tight just wait for a second hand Nistuned ecu and then get it tuned with your stock turbo at 10psi - they run too rich from stock anyway. At some point you should replace your fuel pump with a new genuine Walbro or similar. Then save up for a 3in turbo back exhaust Look out for a second hand return flow fmic. Then get the most bargain basement HyperGear Highflow and remember you will have to budget for a tune as well and wind it up to the max your stock afm and injectors will handle and you will have a pretty zippy family wagon.

SNOQPY's idea looks best - measure the things up and go to a second hand tool place and go through their angle grinder keys - alternatively go to a big mag wheel retailer and see if they have a tool (never seen the like myself).

No point wihout the Nistune. Depending on the turbo you will also need a Z32 afm and bigger injectors (and you should replace your fuel pump with a new and better one). Since you will also need (if yours is stock now) a FMIC and at least 75 -80mm turbo back exhaust. If you're on a budget do these first with the Nistune and then get the turbo, afm and injectors and retune.

Front bleed screw (should be one near the back too):

No they are not. These collars are the same dimensions as the Jun collars and have been used with all kinds of pumps. Reimax do not say their gears are not suitable for the standard crank or crank collar. It is possible that they are made to a different cold tolerance because of the type and mass of the materials from which they are made but when hot will be correct. Your machinist should know how to obtain an interference fit but the guidelines are 0.05-0.10mm interference fit.

I paid $1800 for GCG to hifghflow a GTST turbo about 3 or 4 years ago - wouldn't do it again - the Hypergear seem better value for less money or at about the same money or a little more you can get some good new turbos (although you may need new lines etc).

I have a Stagea (different I know) with a similar setup - Bilsteins, TE37s with 255 40 17 tyres, GTR LSD. If nothing else you should try to get a heavier rear sway bar - it will make a heap of difference on cornering with no adverse effect on ride. Toe in - you want zero front and rear with up to 2mm toe out front acceptable but none rear. Castor - you want more than is possible without adjustable castor arms - I am running just under 6deg with adjustable arms so you want as much as possible with what ever you have. Short of new arms you can get eccentric bushes from Whiteline. Camber - mine are set for the track with adjustable arms front and rear and about 3 deg negative (although there is no obvious excessive wear apparent so far). Again short of new arms you can get eccentric bushes but there should be little bit of adjustment available on your rears (not sure about the front) so you may be able to get 1/2 to 1 deg neg camber. My set up works well for me on the road and on the track. I suspect it will work for you too but hopefully some GTR racers will share their settings with you!

You have a neo engine? A lot of aftermarket ecus have problems at the upper end apparently caused by the R34 CAS. Is yours still stock in this area? There are a number of solutions - Ross make one I don't know if Unigroup has another - in NZ a few tuners have developed their own triggering systems for the R34.

Psymin's 550+ awkw Stagea only ever did 12's - it takes the right set up and technique to do 10 or better not just power!

If you have put a bigger capacity oil pump and you're going to be tracking it you need to severely restrict the oil getting to the top. You don't necessarily need an "oil drain" from the back of the head to the sump but check out at least the first few and last few pages of this thread: http://www.skylinesa..._sk+oil+control

If you haven't made any other changes you won't even be able to "get a tune" so you will really need to revert to stock set up. Installation of FMIC is well over-rated.

Yes

I don't have a micrometer but with a vernier I get 43.7mm and 40.7mm( I have contacted the manufacturer for confirmation. These have sold for years in NZ but I have just started offering them on Ebay.com.au and SAU)

Finally managed a complete track day without exiting in a cloud of smoke. I am running an N1 pump (at about 100psi). Engine is only tuned to 15psi so will wait til its tuned to its final 21 or so psi to call it a complete success but my solution: 2 x 1mm restrictors and two 20mm holes bored as high as possible on the inlet side of the sump. I have two hoses running up to a catch can - both act mostly to relieve pressure but at sustained WOT oil is pushed out as well so one line goes to the top of the catch can and the other comes from the bottom to allow the oil to drain back. I also have two lines coming from the breathers on top of the cam covers going to another catch can. There is no oil collecting in that catch can and minimal residue. Both catch cans are currently vented to atmosphere. If this still works at full power then I plan to run the two cam cover breathers into the same single catch can and instead of venting to atmosphere run the breather from the can through a horizontal air/oil seperator and plumb that into the turbo intake. I don't have any drain from the back of the head as I think that really only functions as a breather. I also haven't drilled out/relieved the oil drains although I think it is a very good idea. I didn't do it because it would have involved completely stripping the engine and sending it back to the machine shop for a proper clean. It seems a sensible thing to do at the building stage though. I have heard good things about the Mines baffles in the 26 covers although they are probably not enough without the restrictors and maybe the breathers too.

Get on the phone to some Gasket makers/suppliers tell them your problem and see what they come up with. You can get thicker gaskets. And FFS find an engine builder who knows how to deal with this.There must be at least one probably more in a place the size of Sydney.

Most people who have changed their exhaust won't have that connected anymore.

Take the top of the cam belt cover off and see if the belt is damaged.

The injectors will be fine but dependant on the right bits and pieces which hopefully have been supplied correctly. Even with your auto that turbo should be able to churn out 280awkw but 250 or better will will be fast! Have you got 3in or better turbo back exhaust? What fuel pump did you get - and did you get it directly wired for full battery voltage?

double post

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Heater cores are available new (no point in buying a second hand one that's just as old as yours) for not much money from your local radiator shop (Natrad). I thought it was possible to get at the heater core by removing the aircond fan and glovebox etc but maybe you are right in that its different to the skyline. I have 17s on my RS4 (TE37) but I think R33GTR rims look good on Stageas...at least I prefer them to the R34GTR ones.

According to Webber your 11U00 is a manual the 11U10 is an auto and the other one is not listed. The other one 94L10 is off a Nissan Laurel C33 RB20DET

Have you determined the compression height fom the spec sheet or by measuring the actual pistons? Ask your engine builder if you can solve the problem with a thicker head gasket and if he doesn't know for sure ask an engine builder who knows his RBs. If the mechanic at your local workshop is building the engine he probably doesn't have enough relevant experience and/or knowledge.