KiwiRS4T

What's your problem? My R34 Manual which I have on DVD shows the same table as post #2 and if you want to see it with your own eyes you can download it yourself from Paul's website: http://www.paulr33.com/ The table says .36 for inlet and .53 for exhaust so yes your .3 blade will fit under both. The clearance for the Neo DE is the same as for the DET.

Have a search on ebay.au - there were some brand new OEM nissan coils going for the same price or less than Splitfires.

Bit early to be panicking after only half an hour's tuning. Hope you're not boosting to 16psi - it won't be tuned for it.

Nope - happy with my Greddy copy for $300!

Not enough for you. I am running a max of 6500 to protect my stock bottom end and N1 pump but if you want to rev high you should get a better balancer.

What are you complaining about? Your first question was answered - yes the intercooler is far too big and the stock one would work better. You suggest you are going to get a 35/40 - you are told that is also far too big which it is. Then some people helpfully report how with a lot of supporting work a 35/40 can be used to make big power on an RB20. Look past the scoffing at your inexperience (we were all inexperienced at some time) and you have got the answers you need.

How's it going mate? Got them off yet? Must say I'm leaning towards the directness of Dale's approach - angle grinder, eye protection, ear protection..... away you go. Don't worry about the oem studs - they are inexpensive and simple to replace.

Looks like you're a genuine pioneer! Let us know how it goes.

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/79044-fitting-driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit.html

If you look you may be able to pick up some brand new OEM coils off ebay (I did) which are cheaper than Splitfires and at least as good if not better. I don't know what Bosch coils you have but if they fit and work why change them?

I missed the next 2 pages of this thread!

please ignore - mispost!

There are a couple of build threads - try the search function and if that doesn't work Google often will.

Get a proper mechanical LSD - they are not that expensive.

Get some decent oil - e.g. Motul

If you are going for a Cert (you should) only front Camber arms the quality of Cusco or equivalent will do - these are avaiilable at the best price from http://maz-sport.com/ in Albany. I also have Cusco castor arms It is not cheap stuff. For suspension help including Whiteline stuff go to Anthony at http://www.bilsteinmotorsport.co.nz/ Don't be put off by the name - he sells other brands such as Tein and the full range of Whiteline gear.

Post up your alignment results Read my post above Twitchy could be a lot of things - do you still have HiCas?

I put in 2 x 1mm restrictors and drilled two 20mm holes in the sump (as high as possible ) and ran two breathers to a catch can, - one to the top and one to the bottom for a drain. Practically nothing coming out of the cam covers now so consider it solved!

Possibly the interlock that stops you starting the car in gear (if it was originally in an auto).

Here's the oil control thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Yes a different KIwi manualised an M35 2wd with a custom bellhousing and Toyota box - used a Link wire in to run the engine (turboed 3L)

OK if it were me and I couldn't get a tool anywhere I would go to one of several engineering shops I know and get them to make me one. All you need is a great long lever with prongs sticking out to put on the holes. If you show an engineer ( as in metalworker /welder/fabricator ) the problem I am sure they could whip something up in under an hour which would do the job.

What are you using for an ecu? Ideally you have the GTR ecu and loom. If not you could buy a wire in Link and make new connections to all the sensors and ignition.

Surely you have enough lines to accommodate some standoffs so that there is at least a small gap between the oil cooler and the fmic. If your lines are that long will the oil cooler not fit in the rf guard?

Good luck with that! I have a steel sump adapter but will be interested to know if yours works out. Can't you just bolt the sump on without a gasket to see how it looks? What's the plan at each end?