KiwiRS4T

The other extreme from Castrol Edge 10W 60 which is almost definitely too thick. I was looking at 5w 30 weight but think its probably too light for my rB30 bottom end which is basically stock. It may be OK for a low mileage V6 in good nick for street use. Do you have an oil pressure and/or temp gauge?

Agip varies from $55 to $70 per 5L (v Motul at about $70 for 2L) and the Agip I am trying next (5W 40) is $225 for 20L

Or this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-479906095.htm

I don't think Castrol qualifies as "real" synthetic. I was using Motul (well Nismo actually because I got it the same price) but have changed to Agip which seems to be a proper synthetic at a much cheaper price. Tried the Agip Racing 10W 60 which seemed to be fine but I want to try a lighter weight oil such as 5W40 so trying other Agip synthetics. I have an N1 oil pump so have heaps of pressure no matter what so relying on oil testing to tell me whats happening.

For not much more than $1300 you could get a one piece carbon fibre driveshaft!

Are you sure you have diagnosed the problems correctly? You are saying you need one of the rear wheel bearings (do you know which side) and the diff is whining and tha'ts caused by the pinion bearing (sure about that?) and the centre bearing on the driveshaft is stuffed? if you want to replace the whole rear end someone on this forum is proabably wrecking a Stagea now but you should price up the bearings first and if you're paying for the labour the total cost of the job. A whole new rear end could be the go if you get it at the right price (they are cheap as over here but freight would be a killer). I have never heard of the centre hanger bearing flogging out but I suppose its possible. I would do all the rest first and see if there is still a problem. then again price up the bearings and labour v a second hand driveshaft.

Is that the video for that car? 490kw = 14.98 quarter?

The advantage of putting a GTR rear end would be a proper mechanical LSD. It would be 4.1:1 (higher geared) so that could be a good or a bad thing... and the disadvantage would be that you would need to change the front diff to a 4.1:1 as well.

Some people found it easy but didn't find it that easy myself! Had to go and buy a brand new good quality ring and open ender (12mm I think) and then make sure you identify which is the nut (as the head of the bolt is pretty much prevented from turning).

You mean like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-478092673.htm or this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-478092662.htm

Also slightly chamfer the leading edge of the pads.

Post in the Stagea section - there is at least one supplier there and a few others will give you options.

Posted 24 May 2012 - 11:05 PM "thanks bud ill have to book it in for another tune but i really dont feel like runing more than 25psi of boost i know the engine is built and all but i do want to keep the car for a bit longer and reliability is my no1" Boost level is not a factor in engine life. Fear of high boost probably derives from the inability of the stock RB25DET turbo to run safely at much more than 11 - 12 psi and then it was the disintegration of the turbo ( and subsequent risk to the engine) that was the danger not the amount of boost per se. Max power is a factor in engine life and a bigger factor is a good tune.

SOLD THANKS May have another pair next week in which case I will make another listing.

Never sen one but if it fits a R34 GTT you should be able to make it fit. I had a cooling pro return flow but it struggled after about 250kw. They say the Blitz return flow is good for 300kw although I would have thought that was pushing it. I have a normal Hybrid fmic now. What is the size of the PWR core?

Depends how set you are on 300+kw at the wheels. You can get near enough with stock manifolds (inlet and exhaust). A GT3076 will bolt to the stock manifold with a spacer.If you do want a front facing intake your stock throttle body will be fine for 300kw++ What kind of Stagea ecu do you have? If it has two rows of pins it can't be Nistuned. If it has three rows (like an R34) it can. But I would save the money not spent on manifiolds (at this stage anyway) and buy a Link/Vipec - then you won't need any kind of afm and will not need to update your ecu again.

This set is off an R32 GTR

The pump can be switched by undoing the plug which is to be found behind the drivers kick panel. It is a small plug in my case taped to another loom. However turning the engine on and off probably works just as well for your puposes. Tyre sizes are critical. In NZ it is anyway illegal to have different tyres on the same axle.

I have a couple of stock GTR blow off valves for sale. These are a great replacement for your RB25 DET BOV if yours is leaking - the flange is the same so bolt straight up - only the outlet is bigger so you will have to adapt the bov return pipe. When you see one you'll realise how much more robust they are. If you want to return your GTR to stock I also have the hard pipe they bolt to as well as the inlet ( and even the piece that goes across the front of the engine if required). Stock BOV (each) AU$60 including postage to anywhere in Australia 2 Bovs c/w hard pipes AU$150 posted. If you want the long piece that goes across the engine bay I'll have to see how much freight will be as its well over a metre long. I'm sure you know what they look like but can email pics if wanted.

I'll take it if still available- PM sent

Take a pic of the inside and send it to Jez - it may be that the Mines chip is on a daughterboard that will accept the Nistune chip.

I had a Cooling Pro one - was fine up to 240kw but over 250 tuner said it was not up to it so got an HDi (non return type). If you want a return type and 280 or so kw the Blitz seems a better performer.

With those mods you need a Nistune now. You probably need bigger injectors as well as the Z32afm but at least with a Nistune you can safely tune the engine to the limits of your current set up.

Slightly off topic but fellow Aucklander has just set a new record at Willowbank in his R32 GTR with a 7.53 and 185mph! http://www.performancecar.co.nz/news-5900/heat-treatments-rewrite-their-record

I can't help feeling that you are not doing the leak down test right - if leakage really was 30% would your compressions be so high? Perhaps you should repeat the compression test with a hot motor and then do the oil down the spark plug hole trick to see if there is any change to give you a clue as to ring condition.