KiwiRS4T

I would put the bovs on the passenger side of the engine and just run a metal vacuum line to them.

To avoid boost cut you need a Nistune chip and then a good tune.

Welcome! Need pic of your car!!

According to Tomei the R33GTR and R34GTR cams have the same lift and duration but slightly different timing so shouldn't be a problem but of course you may have non standard cams.

Here's a how to:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/59399-transmission-cooler/

Got my new struts today. The old ones don't unclip so wound out the ball mounts. 4 new ball mounts supplied and two generic struts total NZ$80.00

If you look around you might be able to buy at a better price: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermix-clutch

Magic wand? More like promotional hype!

Do you drag or track the car? If so you may be running the sump below the level of the pickup. Do you have oil pressure and temperature gauges? Consider putting smaller oil restrictors in and have a read of at least the first few and last few pages of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

Fellow SDU member trailers his R33 Skyline from Tauranga to the drags at Meremere (over the Kamai ranges) with his n/a C34 Stagea no problems.

Have you checked the Atessa fluid level? Inside the door rh boot - any atf will do but would be good to replace the lot with a quality synthetic atf. Then try it in 2wd. Your trans mechanic is probably not aware that it is possible if done correctly - quoting from the manual: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). Disconnect it. If you can't be bothered looking for and disconnecting the plug then remove the front driveshaft (4 bolts).

Hi Dale - haven't had a look under an M35 so is the suspension markedly different from the C34? Should I look to getting a front brace made up for my S1 (presuming you are not into making them) or is the set up such that there will be little or no benefit? And why do you not use aluminium - is it not strong enough?

Maybe some....not all

R33 doesn't have OBD1 or 2 it has Nissan consult - you need something like Ecu talk: http://www.ecutalk.com/

Yep just get out the trusty hacksaw or whatever and "modify" the auto console after the gear lever and handbrake are installed and get some R33 boots for the gear lever and handbrake.

No I understand your problem but it is easier to just replace the whole rod with another than to remove and replace the bush. You could buy the ones from TradeMe, or post up a wanted ad in the Stagea and the general "parts wanted" section of this site or phone around the wreckers

Not second hand bushes second hand rods (Stagea or GTR). If you buy the TradeMe ones linked above it should only cost you about $AU 60 or 70 with postage.

Yes or you can use a vise but if you don't have access to a press then you have to cut/burn the old ones out. If you are not going to keep the car 2nd hand stockers make the most sense.

Yes GTR Skyline - here's some: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/suspension/auction-490757269.htm Yes castor L and R should be the same but may not be as a result of hitting kerb and might still be out after chassis straightening in which case you can use the adjustables to correct. If it is the same L and R then the above arms would be your best bet (simple to fit no press needed).

When I fitted adjustable castor arms I sold my stock ones for $30 the pair so you may be able to pick some up cheap. Skyline ones will do too. The bushes you have linked to will do the job - if your castor is the same L and R then you can install the bushes so as to provide maximum castor (it won't be that much) or for similar money you could get fully adjustable castor arms. I'm in NZ so can't help you with the chassis straightening!

I put a GTR diff in my Stagea for two reasons: To get the stronger 6 x 1 axles and to get a decent LSD to replace the viscous Stagea one. You don't need to change the outside hub carrier or whatever they are called - if you do the positive is they are aluminium and therefore lighter and the negative is that you then need fork ended shocks so have to change.

SOLD THANKS!!

What ratio final drive do you have now to be doing 2900rpm at 110? Is it a 4.363 or 4.375? If so that explains why you are looking at 3.7 or 3.9 but if you are happy doing 2700 at 110 I am doing that now with my 4.1 GTR diff (which is not very different from the 4.08 Stagea diff it replaced) and 255 40 17 tyres....and both those diffs are readily available. And my RB30 pulls well from 2000 in any gear - torque now with another 5 - 8lb of boost to come (2000rpm is approx 40km/hr on this chart):

Very good!Pics?!!

Yes interesting but I saved it from someone elses post in case I got rich. A search might find the original posterHere ya go: http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5975022 and http://www.ag-y.com/690mission.htm elrodeo666 may be able to source parts/boxes for you