KiwiRS4T

It helps if you can see into the future. I bought a Z32 afm and got a chippd ecu not knowing that it was the slippery slope that would lead to spending many thousands of dollars and getting an RB30 and a Link G4

If Pipster is right then you can just go to Repco and get the EL Falcon one: ACA ROX207 and some crimp connectors and cut off your old plug and connect.

Presumably if you replace with the numbers the mechanic gave you they will fit.

So the only difference bewteen the R33 and the Neo one is the plug? I know at least one person bought the R33 one for his S2 and said it didn't fit - was that just the plug? The Neo ones are twice the price!

If its the original one you're overdue for a new one anyway!

The factory seat rails are not really detachable from the seats. For aftermarket seats there is an aftermarket base like the one in the link below that fits R32, R33, R34 C34 Stagea and probably a few other Nissans. Then you need a set of universal sliders. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/interior/seats/auction-501365460.htm

I got some about three years ago. Ran them in my RB25DET up to about 240awkw. Now they are in my RB30/25 knocking on 300awkw expect to get to 330 - 350 with them. If I were buying today I would buy ID1000s (more expensive then DW) as I would like to run E85 in the future and have a Greddy copy plenum so could run an RB26 fuel rail but if you have sidefeed only the DW should be fine.

8-10psi would be normal for a stock engine.. but not giving you a print out sounds dodgy.Excessive blow by is when your dipstick gets blown out of the tube! You need to do a compression test. Any workshop can do that or you can buy or borrow a compression gauge and do it yourself. You say you are in a regional area - how regional? It always helps to put the town where you live (or the nearest town) so that (a) another member might be nearby and be able to have a look at your car and (b) people can recommend the nearest good workshop. If there is one within a day's drive that might be a good idea before you give up on the car. If you get a workshop to do a compression test ask them if they can do a leak-down test. It should only be an hour's labour charge. The results should tell you if the motor needs to come out or not.

Are you for real? If your neo engine is complete you will find a row of injectors along the fuel rail. No carb required. Do you have the turbo and associated piping?

Go to a place that sells batteries. They should do a free test of your battery and charging system.

The definite answer is yes. I guess its running now and RBs generally run quite rich from stock so its probably ok but if you want to be safe stick it on a dyno and get the timing and afrs checked. But to get optimum performance from what you have you will need some tunability and best bang for buck is Nistune.

Quite right - sorry for the bum steer - looks like ecu time alright. Give Nistune a ring and they will spell out which Z32 ecu you need etc.

Anyone can install a trans cooler (diy here): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/59399-transmission-cooler/ MV will send you the parts for a shift kit (they post them round the world) and any competetent auto trans shop should be able to fit it.

Or temporary fix - get a boost T and turn the boost down till it stops doing it.

Any numbers or writing on them? The black box looks a bit like a speed cut defeat for getting rid of the 180km/hr peed limit but tbh could be anything. Maybe the white box is what is needed for the interior light delay! What are the numbers on it?

Pull the hose off the actuator and give it a carefull burst and see if you can top 5psi (without blowing the thing up). if you can, bypass the solenoid and get a simple bleed T to start with. I would guess you have the stock exhaust - usually a bigger exhaust will result in a small increase in boost.

The box that controls the central locking was a black box (and I've sold it) but I'll have a look through my stuff for a white box when I get up!

Good to see! What wheels have you found now??

Great job ..great car. I have read this thread twice but no mention of dyno figures? Just wondered how the US 1500hp translates into actual AWKW?

Not much TBH - sold all the obvious stuff - just have some odd relays and sensors left.

Yes there's a relay and a timer that keeps the lights on after you close the door until you start the engine. Where it is I can't remember but if you find it I may have a spare as I have a binfull of relays I got from an S1 that I wrecked for parts! btw this is (hopefully) the key to the fusebox behid the coin drawer:

Oh ok I have that mat - never could figure out what it was for!

Just measured my S1 at 877 long by 804 wide which appears to be the same as S2. I would have thought it wouldn't make any difference for putting a mat over although I haven't seen the "dog mat" of which you speak!

I have outlets coming out my ears - about 3 on the sandwich plate on the block and another three on the relocation plate. If you haven't got enough you could always drill and tap some more wherever you want them.

Here's a brand new one - should work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wells-TPS462-Throttle-Position-Sensor-/180826831411?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AQ45&hash=item2a1a1e7a33&vxp=mtr