KiwiRS4T

You are going to have to introduce some tunability. nistune is the simplest and cheapest . Unplugging sensors is not the way to go!

Have a look here: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=TPS&osCsid=9fe4a2f23cbe589c8c3630ee46b6af80&x=4&y=5

Buy/make an adapter and run the stock throttle body and TPS

I take it its a S2? Pics needed!!

Yes I have seen it promoted on this forum some time ago - haven't done it myself (yet).

You are better off pushing out the guards than running excessive negative camber for no good reason.

Quality front camber arms (Cusco) are getting up around $500.

[i think OP is in Aus not NZ]

I can't control my Link - don't have a laptop ATM. I have the stock spring in the Synapse Wastegate - will do about 18psi max. I have just bought a 90lb spring which should get it into the mid 20's. If it stops raining tomorrow (no garage) I 'll stick it in and see what it does.

Yes I will probably fit a nipple to the outlet pipe of the turbo - I guess maybe its so that you get a quicker reaction to rising boost and are less likely to get overboosting even temporarily. Also that way there will be no vacuum to the Mac Valve - didn't know they didn't like vacuum but all the instructions do say to use a non vacuum source although they never say why. I agree that getting close to target boost with W/G springs is the way to go but thought that it should at least have been possible to increase boost to any figure just with ebc. I have got a new spring anyway so will fit that with the Mac valve by-passed and see what it makes on the spring alone.

It can't siphon uphill. Normally the thermostat doesn't shut off all circulation but allows a small amount through.

As they are purpose made for the job I would think so or you could ask Spool or assemble it up and put some plasticene on top of the piston and turn it over by hand and have a look at the impressions.

I have an RB30 with a GT3540, Synapse 50mm W/G, G4 Link, Mac Valve and Greddy copy FF plenum.Gradually building up boost currently at 20psi will settle on 25 - 28 finally. My tuner claims to have trouble getting the boost above 20 although i can't see why. I have bought a stronger W/G spring but figured that it should have been possible to acheive the target just on the Mac/Link alone. I will probably go to another tuner who should be able to sort it out but meanwhile there are a couple of questions to which i have been unable to find the answer. There is a manifold coming off the FF plenum with hoses going to the Map sensor and boost gauge, W/G, Mac Valve, Bov, FPR I think that's about it. But everything I read on connecting the W/G and ebc say to take the feed from a non vacuum source before the T/B ideally a nipple off the compressor housing. Why is that? 1. I can see that coming off the compressor housing would give the actual boost the turbo is making but isn't the pressure in the plenum of more interest? 2. And why a non vacuum source? Will the vacuum in the plenum under off boost conditions cause harm to the W/G or Mac valve? (and don't ask why I need so much boost - that's a whole other story that we are working on!)

The actual figure is not so important - you are looking for one or two cylinders with more than say 5% less compression than the rest. e.g. mine range from 130 psi to 135 psi which is low but ok. I got a leakdown test and they were all fine.

That will help -then get the right size tyres and push the guards out a little and you will be looking good!

I tried to load FAST from a disc but can't get it to work. I have been told that it will work on XP and I should run a version of XP within my Windows 7 but that's a bit beyond my computer expertise so I have left it for now!

If the car is new to you change oil and filter. Take it for a long drive so that everything comes up to full temp. get a compression test and leak down test. Go from there. Good engines can "breathe" quite a bit but broken ring lands are also common - test don't guess and don't pull the engine out unless you have to.

^^^What he said. If you smash the car up it won't go very fast at all. If the PFC is a good buy put it in your garage until you can afford to do the turbos and get a tune.

If it can run virtual Windows XP -it doesn't seem to like Windows 7

You don't have too much camber - your wheels are too big. I run 3deg neg camber front and rear on 17x9 in rims with 255 40 17 tyres which gives me a better contact area and also lowers the cog c/w 19in rims: and my cheapo track rims 17 x 8.5in on slicks:

I don't expect mine to crack anytime soon:

What kind of ecu do you have? Have you had it tuned on a Dyno by a competent tuner?

Still got cheap run in oil after 3 - 4 months? Dump it now and get some proper oil (although I don't think it has anything to do with your high oil pressure).

Where are you ? I am sure 6 boost in Aus or Sinco in NZ could make you a similar or better manifold that clears your a/c for the same or less money.

I don't think so! I've got a 30/25 too and the main information should hold true and I will check mine this weekend. I reckon that if the crank is set at TDC and the cam gears align with the dots on the backing plate (not on the belt) - as per the illustrations in the thread then the timing must be correct regardless of how many teeth there are either side. The height of the block is neither here nor there. Have you found the timing marks for the crank?