KiwiRS4T

Yep I drove around like that for a few weeks - shouldn't be any problem.

The links have all had to be reconfigured or whatever. A member has kindly done this and the new links can be found by going to the last post and then back a few and you will see the list of new links. I have asked for the mods to move this list to the front of the DIY section but it hasn't been done yet. Do you want to know how to change the pump or which one to choose? Its a sump off so engine out job.

R32 and R33 have two rows of pins. R34 has three rows.S1 Stagea ecu has 3 rows of pins but is internally similar to R33 ecu but not the same and has the auto ecu inside it. Do you have a pinout diagram for your S1 ecu? (S2 ecu won't work).

Never mind the epoxy just drill and tap the turbo housing.

Really the turbo is too big for the engine but it doesn't sound like its set up properly. I have a GT3540 .63 a/r with a 50mm w/g on my RB30/25 and it makes 20 psi by 3000rev/min. I don't know if you'll get those kinds of numbers on your RB25 (what size exhaust housing have you got 0.63a/r, 0.82a/r or 1.06a/r. ?) but you should be getting better than what you are reporting. Put your location (nearest town,city) up in your profile so people can suggest a suitable workshop or if you're lucky someone living nearby might come and have a look for you.

So far as I can see the Camp2 is just the latest version. You can get an interface for the HKS F-Con or one for the Nissan Consult - which may or may not work when you install a Haltech. If you have a local dealer the F-Con would probably be the easier to connect with the Camp display. If you have a Haltech I am sure anything is possible - just might be a bit harder.

If you can get some brand new OEM ones at a good price (I did but don't see that ad on ebay anymore) that would be no 1. Then Splitfires then Yellow jackets but read the above thread and make your own mind up!

The short answer is not while its an auto. Swapping the S2 gearbox and ecu has been looked at a few times but its too hard... it would probably be cheaper and definitely easier to sell the car and buy a S2. The ecu from an R33Gst4 won't fit and can't be tuned anyway. The Mines ecu will not be suitable either. Toshi on this forum may be able to supply a daughterboard that will accept a chip that he can make but it won't be readily tunable - he will have to make a new chip each time (sorry just noticed you're in the UK so not an option). The best solution at this stage for a S1 auto is the Greddy E-manage (or an HKS F-Con if you have anyone near you who can fit and tune one). You will need something like that if you plan to run 475 injectors and a high flow - you will probably also need a Z32afm and you won't need an adjustable FPR. You should probably also be looking at a set of GTT brakes.

Yep looks to be installed correctly. I have never had a boost T just used a needle valve and I could get any boost I wanted. Have you undone the lock screw and screwed the adjuster in as far as it will go? Have you checked that the ball and spring are in place? Have you got a dud unit? Does the boost T bleed air and if so is the bleed open and unimpeded? Inserting a restictor into the line to the actuator should bring the boost up but watch out its not too much at once. If you restrict the air supply to the actuator the boost should go up unless the actuator itself is faulty. You can test this by pulling the line off the acuator and then driving carefully and watching the boost gauge - it should go to 25psi this way although you only want to see it go to 10 or 12. If it does you have a problem with the boost T

Actuator can't hold you back if you've plumbed it correctly. Have you bypassed the stock solenoid altogether? Boost source to T, line to actuator bleed line tothe bov return where the old one went. You haven't reused one of the old lines without taking out the restrictor?

Missed the fact that your steering wheel was on the wrong side! Have a skim though this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/313603-precision-billet-turbos/ Could be viable to go with a single - depends what you have to pay for the twins. You could get 6 Boost or Sinco to make you a manifold but maybe you need to get someone local to custom make it to ensure it fits in your engine bay!

RB30s are good for durfting and cheap.

Cheers!

I have complete confidence in my tuners. Its people on this forum that have said that the .63 rear was too small and would choke/overheat. The point of the EGT gauge is to help the tuners in their job - they know its my daily driver and only part-time track car and that I am poor so they won't tune it on the ragged edge and knowingly endanger the motor!

I have a GT3540 with a .63 rear and stock pistons. It has been suggested that if I run too much boost (20psi atm making 280awkw so want to go to 25psi and then look at cam timing) I can melt the pistons so want to fit a gauge to keep an eye on the EGT. So you reckon on top of the rear housing between the cam cover and the pipe that leads to the W/G?

It seems the EGT probe should be as close as possible to the exhaust valve. It has been suggested that in the no 1 runner would be best because it will be running leanest. Can we take that as a given or can anyone who has six probes confirm that before tuning no1 will be hottest? (RB30/25 with a Sinco top mount manifold).

Happened to me too when someone used an iron bar to smash the drivers window. Nissan calls them something strange like sun visors. I bought a new one for about $260.

I used an R33 clutch m/c to clear my Greddy copy plenum - quite a bit shorter.

Is it your daily driver? If not I would go for the ID2000s Link and E85 (for the information of the Aussies E85 is available at only one site in NZ so its by the drum for everyone else). If it is the Nistune will be fine with ID1000s. Precision singles are very popular atm but you would have to cost it out (manifold from Sinco or Rips) v a pair of 9s. Here is a cheap heavy duty clutch: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/clutches/auction-501618793.htm

To be fair there are some really nice examples of R33s around - its just that they are the heaviest and R32 and R34s are just more popular

I sold one to DaveB - I think he ended up getting his own or mine repressurised so he might still have it - he only wanted the pressure vessel anyway.

My car came with an aftermarket earthing kit which has about 8 leads going to various places on the block and the cas bolts etc. There are a few around so I guess there is a market for them but didn't do a before and after so don't know how really usefull they are. But definitely replace any obviously dodgy connections.

In my view the GTS4 is one of the more desirable Skylines (poormans GTR). Importantly it is awd. Ideally you would get an RB26 and GTR gearbox or second best an awd Stagea Neo turbo engine and GTR gearbox or finally a S1 awd Stagea( R33 S2 RB25DET) motor and GTR gearbox. In each case you would need the ecu and loom to go with the motor. If you really don't want a turbo you would need a Stagea awd RB25DE (fairly rare in Aussie - dime a dozen in NZ) or an original GTS4 engine.

And are not the GTR rears fork ends?

Yep I have a set of 8 pot 330mm D2s which apparently are a direct knock off of the AP - you can use all the same pads etc and I am tracking my 1800kg Stagea with them! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-501815001.htm and in 356mm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-501781678.htm