KiwiRS4T

I've never heard "stay away from Link" or "stay away from Vipec". The product is the same maybe the dealer support differs in different areas. If you have technical questions that are not answered on the website telephone or email and you will get the answer from the horse's mouth: http://www.linkecu.com/ and for the doubters the worlds fastest RB30 is controlled by a Link: http://www.linkecu.c...30-runs-link-g4

Pretty sure there are a couple of LPG powered RS4Ts in Aus. here's one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/226938-lpg-stagea-rs4-series-2/page__hl__lpg%20stagea I think your car will look better with the 350Z rims - haven't seen a three spoked rim that I like ever! Have seen a few Stageas with 350z rims - they go well.

Snow mode starts in 2nd gear and gives 50/50 split until you hit about 20 - 30km/hr and then the computer takes over as normaL.

I think that's right but ideally you would be doing it during a tune so you could see the effect on the dyno.

My RB25DET had 2 cams both stock. I think adjustable cam wheels are not that useful on aftermarket cams such as poncams or special grinds because they are presumably tailored to suit. I have no experience with RB26 but apparently they benefit from tuning adjustable cam gears. And Sliver/Silver S2 I might have got it the wrong way round (I don't think so) but I can assure you the benefit was to the midrange not the max power. Don't forget that by retarding you are also delaying the opening of the exhaust valve.

They shift the power band downwards - there may be a small drop at max revs but more power in the mid range - I can't remember the number but its worth the effort.

Get your cam timing right first. With a highflow etc I had an adjustable exhaust cam gear tuned on the dyno - ended up about 3.5 to 4 degree retarded from memory.

If your motor is ok sell the SAFC and get an ecu that will accept a Nistune chip and then tune to the limit of your afm and injectors.

Get an RB26DETT ecu and loom and Nistune it. If your engine is basically stock then the base map should get you running and you will be able to look around for someone to tune it later if your local tuner can't

GCG:117 Eldridge Rd Condell Park NSW 2200, Australia They Hi flowed a gtst turbo for me about 3 or 4 years ago - was $1850 then!

18psi is 18psi no matter what manifold you are using. Get as close as possible with the actuator. Positon of the wastegate makes a difference to boost creep (mine is off the turbo housing). What kind of ecu are you using? If you have a Link or Vipec or similar you can just get a Mac valve and use the ecu for boost control.

If you are not able to do a compression test yourself it would probably be a good idfea to get a mobile mechanic to do it and generally check the car out.

GCG is reputable but get a quote - you may end up sending it to Hypergear! Do a compression test - just block off the oil supply line.

I found some brand new stock oem coils on ebay which seem to be fine otherwise Splitfires. What is your power goal and do you plan to track it? Stock rods are probably ok up to 350kw but get new rod bolts and of course main and big end bearings. Do you have a wastegate and bov? I would forget the head oil drain kit but drill and tap the sump for breather(s) - have a read of the oil control thread http://www.skylinesa..._sk+oil+control If you are going to track it get a bigger, baffled sump. If not at least get the Tomei baffle kit. You'll need a line and some fittings for the vct and probably some lines for the turbo and probably all new belts and hoses - don't get the N1 water pump as you will not be doing 8000rev/min. Oops - just saw your water pump thread - if you plan on running your RB30 at 8000 rev/min you will need a new quality harmonic balancer probably some valve springs possibly a modified ignition trigger depending on ecu as well as getting everything balanced. I run mine at 6500rev/min max (limiter set at 7000).

When I had my RB25DET I used the stock airbox and snorkel and made a hole in the top of the airbox and ran a duct to behind the headlight (plenty of air gets through there). Didn't really get to test it as I broke a few ringlands and had to pull the engine but its fairly easy and cheap to do - why not give it a go?

I have one GTR stock bov left. Excellent replacement for RB25DET (or RB26 if you need one). Bolts straight up but outlet is bigger than 25DET so needs adapter. Price $60 including postage.

Top quality CNC manufactured Oil restrictors for oil supply regulation in RB engines. Available as blank, 1.0mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm. SAU price AU$10 each P&P $5 to any street address in Australia or free postage with purchase of 2 or more. Also Top quality brand new crankshaft collar for RB oil pump drives delivered complete with grub screws. These are made to the most exacting standards by CNC process to protect your OEM or aftermarket oil pump and have been proven by top engine builders with high powered street, drag, drift, circuit racing and jet boat motors (similar to Jun items). SAU price reduced because of changes in the exchange rate can now offer for AU$70. Free postage to any street address in Australia.

Plenty more in it - just up the boost and retune!

You could get a kit with oil cooler and filter relocation but unless your going to track it there's probably no need. Why not just fix the leak?

Have you given Hollinger a ring? http://www.holinger.com.au/clutch_release.php

This is where it is on a C34:

You can do it but people who have done it concluded that it was a waste of effort.

Not a big deal for someone who knows what they are doing.

Just filled my S1 manual RB30/25. I have been driving normally - changing up at 2 -2500 revs, the odd boost on the motorway and it took 62.65 L for 448km so about 14L per 100km (mostly short trips less than 10km - four or five about twice that).

Whether you run 15psi or 25 psi makes no difference to the reliabilty or longevity of your engine (supposing that you are running a turbo within its design limits) - that's down to the maximum power, and as you say 300kw is often quoted as a sensible limit for a stock block motor, the way its driven and maintained and most importantly the tune.