KiwiRS4T

The kit in the first post still looks a good buy at $355 incl thermostat and everything you need!

10 psi will be fine.... more if you're feeling lucky. Spend some time reading here and then come back if you have any specific questios: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/66556-forced-induction-quick-ref-guide/

Plenty of these engines in Aussie cars - he will finish to your requirements - short block, long, ready to race... http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

I think this is the one: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/RE4R01A.pdf

Saw this in the thread above - looks like a good kit at a good price: http://www.shop.cartel-aus.com/Thermostatic-Basic-Oil-Cooler-Kit-DWEB016.htm

I put a GTR bov on my RB25DET - alongside the stock item you can see the more robust construction of the GTR unit.. As said bolts right up just have to adapt the bigger outlet.

Mocal is a good brand - looks like a well priced kit - new is safer.

http://olskoolrodz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32873

Clearly haven't got the hang of "multiple quotes " yet but the answers are in there somewhere!

130deg C is a bit hot - time to look for an oil cooler. What kind of oil are you using? Synthetic is a bit more forgiving of overheating. And if you are not doing a cool down lap idle the engine for a few minutes before switching off.

OK well the compressions for my RB30/25 are all around 132psi so has anyone got a similar engine with a known CR to compare ( I would guess about 8:1 but its not that important now)? For reasons too boring to relate my budget engine had dodgy pistons replaced with some good cond but evidently less than ideal pistons that were available at the time. Consequently its only making 230awkw (with a GT3540) at 15 psi instead of nearer 300. I have just done a leakdown test - all between 5 and 8% so I will wind the boost up as much as possible with a new tune and live with whatever power it makes until I can afford a rebore with 9:1 pistons.

If you think its a poor idea simply throw away the grub screws. The security of the shrink fit depends on the quality of the machinist not the collar.

A very old question. Keep the box and snorkel. Add to it with another cold air supply through the spare intercooler pipe hole you now have if you wish. Don't forget a pod filter also impedes airflow. I used a Pipercross PX-PP1128 filter (no idea how it compares with the HKS unit).

The grub screws are a belt and braces approach. Collar requires the crank to be machined to provide a shrink fit for the collar - grub screws are an extra insurance.

I am sure the one in the link will be fine..... or you could buy mine which I know to be fine! They are made to the same dimensions as the Jun collar (43.7mm on the round 40.7mm on the flats) as are most crank collars sold. There is no body of solid evidence as yet that bigger (smaller clearance) is better - or everyone would be making them bigger. I offer free postage as well

Or for cheaper only $25 http://www.performance-wise.com/USERIMAGES/procart32.htm

Got mine from here: http://www.performance-wise.com/USERIMAGES/procart33.htm

From China http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Aluminum-Sandwich-Plate-Adaptor-Oil-Gauge-Filter-Kit-M20x1-5-3-4-16-UNF-blue-/360448849605?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ec6cf6c5 From Aus http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXi-Gauge-Oil-Temp-Pressure-Gauge-Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Plate-Sensor-Adapter-/260983161272?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc3cf01b8 From NZ http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/gauges/auction-466483339.htm

Yes I currently have an extension T'd off the warning light. It runs up to the bulkhead where the sender unit is screwed in. When I install my oil cooler I will have another 5 or 6 places to choose from. Sorry its an S1 but I'm sure its the same.

I had lots of problems with the old format but then Prank fixed it with what he called a band-aid solution. The one thing that still bugged me was that if you clicked on a link when you tried to close the link it would close SAU instead - that appears to be fixed now with this latest version.

Read the Shockabsorber 101 at the top of the page. I have non adjustable Bilsteins in my car which I track regularly. There are better shocks if you have an unlimited budget. Don't be in a hurry - go to some race meetings that feature Skylines and see what the faster cars are using. For HiCas removal try Google - there are many options.

Sorry I'm a bit slow but how do you get from section to section? The drop down list at the bottom of the page appears to have disappeared. Thanks Bob

OK but here is a rare opportunity: http://www.trademe.c...n-465141160.htm Dumping fuel sounds like the rich and retard function of the ecu - does the timing change suddenly at any point? I think you should get a tunable ecu regardless but maybe if you can find one swap out your stock ecu for another just to eliminate it as a problem. ecu to Nistune: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-463835153.htm stock ecu http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-464840539.htm

Should base timing not be 15 deg? Why did you put a Q45 throttle body on it? Which TPS did you use? Pretty sure your problem is tune related - you need to find a PFC or the right Nistuned Z32 ecu or as you are in the US maybe get a Link and then you can run your Synapse BOV and ditch the afm. http://www.linkecu.com/dealers/north-america-dealers/dealersusa