KiwiRS4T

No Any warranty on the job?

I am not sure how your R33 differs from my Stagea but I would be inclined to get an arm of this type first:http://justjap.com/s...&cat=396&page=1 and depending on how much you have lowered the car you may be able to get by just using the eccentric adjuster on the stock toe arms.

What are you using for a boost controller? As you have a Link G4 you just need a Mac solenoid valve and the G4 can do sophisticated boost control. Have you checked the vacuum line to the bov? Is there someone nearby you could swap with for a test? If you decide the bov is faulty I have a pair of GTR bovs which are much more robust than the RB25 ones and bolt straight up in the same place (although you need to adapt the outlet pipe as the GTR one is bigger). I am after $100 for the pair posted but could do you one for $60 posted.

Since you have a S2 you would benefit from getting a Nistune fitted and tuned. The car will run on the stock ecu but from stock they all run very rich and a tune will benefit economy and/or performance and help your engine live longer. Do the exhaust and the intercooler first if you want and get the Nistune as soon as you can.

They are not mislabelled. You will notice if you read the complete description that neither is actually called a "camber arm" but both when adjusted will affect the camber.

I have the Cusco front arms. The two piece ones can't be certed in NZ as you can see the one piece ones are going to be stronger. The two different rear ones are different parts - take your rear wheel off and have a look.

If its only one side its not going to be the ABS. Just pull the caliper off and clean up the piston check the seals and make sure there's no rubbish in the lines. You may find the pads are very thin and need renewing anyway. Good idea to renew all the brake fluid if you can't remember doing it in recent history.

Aaargh. For the 9in you need minimum 235 and ideally 255 (like me ) and for the 9.5 245 minimum or better 255 or 265 If you can't afford the right tyres sell the rims and get some 8in or so. You can roll the gaurds yourself for nothing - tutorials on U tube

275 285 is ideal Depends on what you consider sick.

By the way the HKS F-Con is a top ecu. They are not a popular buy because few tuners have the means or knowledge to tune them but since you have one if you can find a tuner within range you should keep it.

Better to look for a 26 head complete.

I believe only the 260RS had Hicas in which case it has the GTR fork type shocks (unless anyone knows better).

If you are happy to keep your car and it is generally in good nick and you have confidence in the abilities of the person giving you the quote it doesn't seem a bad option - it should give you reliable motoring for a few more years. Buying a second hand motor is a gamble which may or may not work out. Buying a gtr would be nice but but you wouldn't get that much for your car with a dud motor so a large capital outlay and then you will need a few more thousands to spend on it. Mind you if you don't have any kind of aftermarket ecu a Nistune should be added to your original quote.

A brake and clutch specialist or a decent workshop should be able to tell you why it is slipping. A clutch specialist should be able to test the pressure plate. If the driven plate has become contaminated you should just need a new one of those and get the flywheel and pressure plate surfaced.

You can do them. Just pull them apart and clean them up - look for serious scoring in the bores or on the pistons and blow out the lines. Reassemble with the new seals and dustboots. If you Google there'e probably a few tutorials on the subject. Get a mate to help you bleed them properly (replace all your brake fluid while you're at it).

I'm running 3deg neg camber front and rear for the slicks (castor at 5 deg) and so far it doesn't appear to be affecting the street tyres adversely (on my awd Stagea) . Toe in probably has more to so with "scrubbing". I have zero rear and zero to 2mm toe out front. What's yours? And as above hard suspension will make both tyre wear and handling worse.

Or better a GTR one.

Keep the VCT - no such thing as too much torque.

Well done!~ Congratulations on being prepared to change your mind - I'm sure you won't regret it!

I think one fuel system and one tune would be most efficient. With lower grade fuel you are going to need bigger throttle openings and more gear changes. I have a quite noisy exhaust and no WOF at the moment so I tend to drive around off boost most of the time and can still easily keep up with the traffic and my fuel consumption is lower than it has been for ages! But whenever I want I have the power of the GT3540 on tap.

Its probably because its a hefty lump of metal that people can build 500hp engines with RB30 bottom ends that have done 250,000km without regrinding the crank.

I bought the latest version with the remote pickup http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bestlap-lap-timer-infrared-ultrared-racing-track-day-V2-/200753923595?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2ebdddc60b&vxp=mtr It works fine - lap times to two decimal places and stores each lap time for recall - no other features but fine for $60 It also works with the more expensive beacons so if any one else has a beacon at the track you can run off that instead if you want.

I got one for about $300 - would have been a bit dearer with the element for the snow heater (defroster for the wipers) but I decided I didn't need it in NZ.

Try this one: http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/feature/o2-sensor-testing.htm

Thanks for the feedback - always good to know what the problem was.