KiwiRS4T

Its true the above videos are not that scientific but they do represent what a lot of first time (especially Skyline) owners do - get a pod filter and a catback exhaust - closely followed by a noisy aftermarket bov. Its not a matter of belief... its measurement that counts. There is plenty of research to show the optimum size of exhaust pipe required for different power levels. Similarly the size of air intake is important too and the restriction provided by the air filter ( I am assuming you do not advocate running with no airfilter on a street car) is minimal and the measured difference between pod and stock airfilters is even more minimal. The stock airbox and snorkel also has a small ram effect which helps with flow. Do you have any evidence to support your assertion that "the shape of a pod causes a greater turbulence thus increasing airflow" (actually that's two assertions)? When you are running a huge turbo that requires a 100mm or bigger intake then it can become impractical to use the stock airbox and you will need another form of cold air supply.

You don't really want to be draining the head - you want to prevent it from filling up in the first place and if you are still to build the motor you can do it right instead of trying to apply bandaids afterwards. Have a read of at least the first few and last few pages of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

An old argument but do you have evidence for this? I am sure there is a point at which the stock airbox will become a restriction but I suspect it is somewhere way past 300kw.

I have brand new OEM coils plugs at 1.1mm and making 240kw at one bar. Shortly to increase boost to as much as possible with my GT3540 so hoping for better than 300awkw and will let you know if my coils aren't up to it but I'm not expecting any problems. I accept it could be different with an RB26 making 500kw at 10,000 rev/min.

You have heaps of compression.. sounds like you should try another leak down tester.

Has anyone tried the Okada coil packs? I don't believe they are that much more then OEM although I didn't go so far as to get a quote. But anyone have real life experience with them?

Cool video - but the needle just pulls straight out of you want to change the dial face.

What are you trying to do? To get 2wd you need to remove the front driveshaft from the transfer case to the front diff.

There are some big power RB30s built with the Neo head but I am not sure of the advantage of going to the trouble of adapting RB26 throttle bodies - especially when the really big power RB26s seem to revert to one big throttle body (don't know the rationale for that). For myself an RB26 head on my RB30 would be great but the vct conversion sounds interesting as well depending on price.

There is no baffling at present as I have been experimenting to see what works. Mind you I don't believe there is too much to baffle as the pressure coming out of the sump is not so much blow-by (my leakdown tests confirm this) but I think it is the action of the crank that stirs up a storm!I will have some metal internal baffling on my permanent set up and definitely the second catch can will be properly baffled.

You may get a reading of 9L per 100km at one particular point in time but that is not the same as an actual average consumption figure. Km per tank are not accurate you need to measure the fuel used for a given number of km and do the calculation.

I am currently using two completetly separate catch cans but plan to use two in series. Right now I have one 2L catch can with two 1/2in breathers coming from the sump - one to the top and one to the bottom of the catch can. At extended periods of WOT some oil gets pushed up these breathers and I suspect, but don't know for sure, that it will be worse when powering through a left hand corner. I have a Tomei sump baffle kit but not an extended sump (which is a very desirable feature in a track car) so I don't want to lose too much oil ...and so I let it run back via the lower breather when the pressure is off. I have another catch can which takes the two hoses from the cam cover breathers. There used to be a lot of oil coming out of the cam cover breathers but with the changes I have made (1mm restrictors and sump breathers) that is now minimal (insignificant). Each catch can is vented to atmosphere through a Moroso breather cap. This arrangement is illegal in NZ unless you have a cert and are a member of a car club and have a competion licence and a log book. I can comply with these conditions but would like them not to be vented to atmosphere so I will run the cam cover hoses to the same 2L catch can as the sump breathers and then run a hose from the very top of the catch can (where the vent is currently) to another catch can which is definitely an oil/air seperator. That I plan to vent to the intake. I do not expect significant oil vapours etc to be in this after going though two catch cans and so it will not be a negative factor in the tune. If I am wrong I will revert to venting to atmosphere ...although I note some of the Japanese competition cars seem to do this ok (run 2 catch cans in series and vent to the intake). The advantage? Well I could say I am saving the planet but in reality I am more concerned about the smells that waft in through my aircond as this is my daily as well as my race car!

I am coming to the conclusion that the "drain" from the back of the cylinder head is not just unnecessary but actually undesirable. It is doubtful that it drains any oil back to the sump and so some people think it acts as a breather for the sump. Judging by the airflow that comes out of my breathers (and I have had a leak down test which discloses no excessive blow by)I would say that it probably has the effect of blowing oil in the cam covers out through the cam cover breathers and it is better for the sump breathers to go into a catch can.

No - I just have two side by side on the inlet side - one goes to the top of the catch can one to the bottom - I suppose if you had the catch can somewhere in the middle you could run the drain to the exhaust side.

Hi Hugh - i have emailed you the relevant pages from the Stagea workshop service manual. If the quality is not good enough I can post you the pages as well. -sorry please scrap page A15 you will find the weight on A16 or A17 which I am just sending you!

The question was answered by the first respondent... going to 2.5in would be inferior to any halfway decent 3in cat. Get a Venom 100cell metal cat - the biggest you can fit ( I have the 5in one).

In your opinion the oil is not the problem. It may or may not be be but a change could be the solution. I am getting the impression that there are at least two problems - dirty lifters and wrong oil. Short of disassembling the lifters and cleaning them you could try a very thin diesel rated oil. Put some km on it (not on a track) in the hope it will clean things up a little. Then replace it with a quality synthetic lower than 10W 60.

I have 2 x 1mm restrictors and two 1/2 in breathers from sump to catch can (one acts as a return) no "drain" from head. Completed a full track day for the first time with this set up and pretty much nothing coming out of the cam cover breathers now!

Try the above suggestions first. You say tension is backed off all the way so try putting some tension on, a bit at a time and see what happens.

I'm suggesting that your oil is not hot enough. You say you have always run it on 10 -60 with no issues but you have an issue now and changing to a thinner oil would be one of the simplest, cheapest things to try compared with ripping out your motor yet again.

I have 2 x 1mm restrictors and hydraulic lifters and my vct works fine.

Do you have a thermostat on your oil cooler? What are your oil temps like? As above there is evidence that 10W 60 is too heavy for a high revving engine in good condition. Try some Motul 15W 50 or even 5W 40.

Don't know where to start! I guess you don't know what an AFM is and maybe you are referring to somethings else altogether but we have no way of guessing what that might be. Although it has a number of other names we usually mean Air Flow Meter and its that black cylindrical thing between the air cleaner and the intake pipe. It measures the airflow to determine the amount of fuel that should be injected. You need one unless you have an aftermarket ecu that uses a map sensor to measure the pressure in the plenum.

Here's an alternative http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEM-F-IC-6-Programmable-ECU-R33-R34-GTS-T-GT-T-350Z-RB25DET-RB26DETT-Power-FC-/120904214917?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2673e985 but I'd get a Nistune.

g/box filler and drain plug 25 -34 Nm or 18 -25 ft lbdiff 59 - 98 Nm or 43 - 72 ft lb (from the R32 GTR manual)