KiwiRS4T

No matter how it looks if it is the original one it is overdue for replacement. If you want to test it here is a comprehensive "how to": http://www.skylinesd...ead.php?t=64962 post #23 or buy a new one: http://www.kudosmoto...-neo-p-187.html (for some reason the S2 is more than twice the price of the S1) To reset the ecu disconnect the battery (and pump the brake pedal a few times to " drain residual electricity" - sounds hokus to me but eveyone says to do it!) and then reconnect after 30 seconds.

Also look for pinholes in the casting of the Greddy copy - some are fine some are not.

Don't know the answer but I suspect not. There are quite a few differences between the awd and 2wd suspensions.

If you have an R32 GTR and get a flat and find the spare is the wrong size you can just pull the awd fuse to put it into 2wd. (Not the case with R33 or 34).

I have the battery in the boot as well as a surge tank and a metal cover which means I can no longer get 4 wheels in the back with the back seat up. Another reason to go RB26 head on the RB30 as its plenum doesn't intrude on the battery space!

To depress the clutch pedal means to push it down. You can't just make up your own definitions - you'll just confuse people.

Heavier is better. There is no degradation of ride quality. Balance between front and rear is important - I would go with SKs (or Dales) suggestions.

Just legal on 10in not on 10.5

There are no "pros" Sidewalls which are not perpendicular are weakened not strengthened. The reason they are illegal is not because they look silly (that's a matter of opinion) but because they are not safe.

My RB30 with an N1 pump cruises at 100 psi and idles at 43 psi

I got my heater core from Natrad. Take your old one out and go to a radiator shop to get it matched up. I think I paid about $80 about 4 years ago so maybe $100 - $120 now.

Try the auto guru MV Autos in Adelaide - he exports parts for the shift kits for S1 and S2 - don't know about M35 but I don't see why not: Mike M V Automatics 1 Stirling Road Blackwood SA 5051 08 83700430 [email protected] Best to phone as he is apparently not big on emails.

You need a new tune either way so don't let that be a factor in your decision.

Think I saw someone on here is adapting VCT for the RB26 head.

I live in NZ where anything goes so long as it is done properly and certed but if you are so constricted by your local laws have you considered making your car a track only so you can do what is best rather than what is legal? Sounds like you have another daily driver so get a trailer and go to town on your Skyline!

Put an fpr in the line just before the surge tank so only that part of the line will be pressurised (not the surge tank). Adapt an oil pressure warning light switch and T it in before the fpr. You can have a buzzer or light on your dash. When your tank is running low the buzzer will come on and off (as petrol surges away fom the pickup) and when its buzzing continuously you will know you are down to the 3L in your surge tank.

You can build an RB30/25 for $2000 or an RB30/26 for $30,000 depending on your requirements and abilities. I haven't kept a proper record but extras like a GT3540 for $2k and the Link supplied fitted and tuned $3k all add to what was a fairly basic stock (not forged) build but I would guess about $10k Ask Duncan for Aussie costs - he did a forged and balanced engine with a cheap turbo which makes sense because its easier to upgrade the bolt-ons than rebore with forged pistons etc after the event (which is what I am looking at in a year or two) - although the non-forged option if done right is still good for 300 -350kw. I have also managed to obtain quite cheaply over time the GTR gearbox, GTR LSD and axles but then splashed out $2k on brakes. I am sure if you could finance a 260RS and stick an RB30 block under the 26 head that would be the most cost effective (and you could probably sell the 26 short block). Have a read of the RB30 section in the turbo upgrade sticky in the forced induction section - you will see some people with 280kw and you will also see what is required to make more than 500kw. Or you could just buy this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=462080106

Sure you haven't got the snow button on? That locks the attessa at low speeds as well.

Don't forget oil control - restrictors, sump breather, relieve/bore out drains.

Sorry don't stock smaller than 1mm

There is some work involved in building an RB30 but it can be done cheaply with stock parts to make 300 - 350kw (best option for you if you want to retain the auto trans) or rebored with forged pistons for about the same price as an RB26DETT but with the potential for 400 -500kw. The second hand RB26 will be an unknown quantity versus a rebuilt RB30 and so could end up costing much more. My S1 RS4T only cost NZ$4500 so it was an easy choice for me but if you have to pay over $10k for one you may as well look for a 260RS

If you want to keep the auto make sure you get a S2 Stagea so you can Nistune it or put a Link in. I chose RB30 over 26DETT - even fairly stock it will have heaps of torque. Mind you over here you can get a 260 for $14 to $18K which is what I would do if buying now.

VCT is no gimmick. Inlet cam is advanced by 20 deg which is substantial. Mid range power can be 10 - 20 kw more depending on your set-up. Do a run with it off and (when you get it working) with it on and see the different curves.

Yes I'm a bit nervous about them too but I've used them in the past without problems (although one experience doesn't prove anything) and have one waiting to go on my RB30. Apparently there were some bad ones (from a big name Japanese supplier forget which one) but I have never actually seen a post from someone who has had one fail in use in say the last five years (not saying it hasn't happened). I imagine hundreds if not more have been sold in that time.

These are my TE37s 17x9 30 offset with 20mm spacers front and 255 40 17 tyres: