KiwiRS4T

You had them flow tested? What were the results?

Not magic - new software plus hard work by admin team!!

All issues appear to have been fixed in the last few hours!!!! Thanks heaps

Yes and I can now reply with quotes - it must have just happened in the last few hours! Now to see if I can acces my messages and put a new thread in the for sale section!!!!! And I can edit my posts!!!

1.5 bar!

You don't say what ecu you have and whether it is set up for the different injectors. The 554 is Nismo code for 740cc. Maybe you have not got enough fuel supply and they are running at 100% duty cycle to try to compensate. But I'm no tuner.

Thanks for that. So you're saying the rear drain doesn't drain. Was the head an RB26 or 25, solid or hydraulic lifters? Just one oil feed no vct? And the mines triple flow baffles are they in the cam covers (as opposed to sump baffles)? Thanks Bob

Some or even many track cars have their catch cans vented to atmosphere (via one or two small air filters usually). Why? I assume its because at full boost/power they have loads of blowby and they don't want the oil fumes upsetting their afrs. But I see some Japanese race cars still have their catch cans connected to the intakes. Sometimes they have an oil air seperator and a catch can or two catch cans. I assume the idea is that if you have a proper set up with an oil/air seperator and a properly baffled catch can that allows the oil to precipitate to the bottom of the can then you don't get much or any oil going into the intake but you do get the benefit of the scavenging effect of the intake. I see a lot of catch cans on TradeMe or Ebay (or on cars for sale) that are really tiny and usually unbaffled and I doubt they do much catching of oil. For the record non-recirculating catch cans are illegal in NZ except for cars which have low volume certification and are designated as mainly for track use (this is supposed to be supported by the holding of a competetion licence and the keeping of a log book but I don't know how stringently this is enforced).

It would be good to get some hard evidence about the rear "drain". Some say, and I tend to agree, that it really functions as a sump breather in which case it might as well go to the catch can as to the back of the head. Someone talked about putting a plastic hose on the head drain and sticking a video camera in there but there is a much simpler way. What is needed is someone who has overcome the problem of filling the cam covers with oil on the track (not someone still experiencing this problem because if the cam covers really are filling up with oil - as happens - then some of that oil is bound to go down a rear head drain pipe) to take the end that goes to the sump and stick it (securely) in a container and run a breather to atmosphere or a catch can from the fitting on the sump it came off. Then give it some stick for a few laps and see how much, if any, oil is in the container. It wold take a selfless searcher for truth to do this because this person would have already solved their problems and for them it would only be of academic interest but for the rest of the RB world it would be valuable information!!

If your car has not been repainted the factory paint codes are on the build plate below the chassis number and model number e.g. mine is DR2 green metallic. You can probably find it here (change the year in step 1 if yours is not a 97): http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=1997&make=Nissan&model=All%20Models

Its getting late over here and brain is not functioning that well but further to my last post it would be great if you decided to determine definitely how much oil actually comes out of the drain at the back of the head once restrictors and sump breather have been done. A few people have threatened to replace the oil drain from the back of the head with a plastic pipe and stick a camera in there but there is a much more low tech solution - you could just put the end of the hose into a container instead of into the sump and measure what comes out. This assumes that you have done the restrictors and have a breather for the sump (if you didn't drill 2 holes then you could use the one you take the hose off as a breather). That would be a great service to RB kind. Also thinking about the flames and smoke I guess even if your engine was tuned correctly things could get hot ehough to ignite oil fumes and actual oil if there was enough (too much) of it about!

Well the first half of your question should be resolved...I don't believe stuff all oil will come from your head "drain" and I think it functions as a breather so you shouldn't drain your catch can into the same line. As I said I am getting two outlets drilled and threaded into the sump - one for a breather and one in case a drain for the catch can is necessary but I am hoping it won't be. And yes filling the head with oil will result in oil getting past your seals and clouds of smoke biloowing out the back... the flames seem to be a stock RB feature and can be tamed if you have an aftermarket ecu and can tune the afrs so it doen't run so rich at WOT.

You've been busy....pics?

If you don't want to pay to get the wheels rebalanced try swapping them front to back and see if that makes any difference. Have a good look to see if any balance weights have fallen off.

Here's one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-437178184.htm or give Joe Kyle a ring - people buy half cuts for the RB26 but want a 2wd gearbox because its going in a non- awd car.

No difference in box or price. I have one in my Stagea - they are cheaper than 2wd ones.

OK so now you have front 0.8mm, back blocked and vct 0.8mm? When are you next going to the track? Fingers crossed that this works!!!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-438326462.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-438326462.htm

Hey Mark when you say head drains (plural) do you have the fitting at the back of the head running to the sump and do you have another one as well?

You've got me worried now. I've got an N1 pump it runs at 100psi at 3000rpm and idles at 44psi. Not quite as much as your Tomei. I am currently limited to 6000 rpm - was planning to set limiter to 7000 and use 6500 as the change point. Maybe a stock RB25 pump would have been better! Engine is coming out next week so decision time!! (also RB30/25 with vct and hydraulic lifters).

The suggestion is that you take the guts out of a Z32afm and install them in a 4in intake pipe . I would think you would be better off with a Link or Vipec - no afm needed (two would be $700) - Link can handle boost control plus other features.

Have you read the oil control thread? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control I have concluded (as have others) that the so -called oil drain on the back of the head simply functions as a breather so I am not fitting one. I think the most important steps are: 1. Restrictors. I have hydraulic lifters and vct. I am fitting two 1.0mm restrictors (SK suggests one 1.0mm and blank the other but I am keeping two feeds as an insurance against a blockage). 2. Sump breather. I am drilling and tapping two fittings to the sump. One is for a breather which will go to the catch can. The other is for an oil return from the catch can only if it should be necessary. I hope it won't be but don't want to pull the engine out yet again. If you are keen I would recommend drilling out the oil returns and relieving the larger ones. My mechanic is not keen to do this as it would involve completely stripping the engine head and block to get them properly clean and reckons 1 and 2 above will do the job.

Denso make a lot of OEM pumps and supply HKS and probably Nismo too. having said that you need a pic to see if it is configured for your car.

http://jessestreeter.com/