LSX-438

That car should never have been allowed to run in club IMO. MAYBE the diffuser (a BIG HUGE maybe) but the flares on the guards clearly allow the car to run wider tyres than the stocker guards would otherwise permit (the whole point i guess) but again clearly against the spirit of the published club rules relating to guards, as per the WTC website. This sort of thing has put other (front running) competitors in an awkward position, which is unfair and not a good outcome for anyone. Hearsay about how many people may be breaking rules otherwise and whatnot is just stupid and smokescreen. This is clearly crossing the line, agreed in WTA parlance that's a VERY fuzzy line but clearly crossed IMO - and dscussion forums is about opinions like it or lump it. Anyway what's done is done. A great pity this has disenfranchised at least 3 of the front running cars/drivers, some of who have supported WTAC since day one.

might find the 1:38.x wrx has bolt on guards, and will probably be deemed inelligble under club rules.

As per what domino say i reckon i well worded email to nissan au hq may get you to part installed. Perhaps suggest it's unsafe at night because you cannot see your speed etc. and the overly onerous procedure to acquire the part from a third party. Don't forget the cluster will need to be programmed for the km's travelled too. When my car was done, the part had to a) come from Japan to aus, then b) i had to provide evidence of kms travelled thus far (with estimate of weekly km's travelled) then c) cluster was sent to new york for programming and sent back then d) finally installed, installation of cluster needed to be overseen (in person) by officer from department of fair trading. The whole process took about 4 months. IMO your best/eastest option is to find the DIY on the NAGTROC forum which shows how to remove the cluster, then send it to someone who knows how to swap out the faulty LED's

i recently had my 2009 cluster replaced (with 1 day of warranty left to go). They put in a new cluster (not a 2009 spec) with the reverse beeps etc. Would you not get at least a 12 month warranty for a new part (fitted by them)? Anyway, a little birdie told me if you write to Nissan to complain (about the part not being covered, even just outside of warranty) you might get the part replaced free. give it a go. otherwise i would follow the DIY threads on various GTR forums to replace the LED's yourself, PITA but at least doable?

I've ordered quite a few drums of the Willall fluid from Martin, and it seems to deal with day-to-day driveability as well as literally dozens of track days without issue. If you want to change the fluid yourself i can give you a few hints/tips too (i've done it myself at home a number of times).

fair enough. all i can say is i know the AP's work, 100%

why wouldn't you go with the AP's? i've used quite a few sets with nil issues. Not trying to cause a shytestorm but nearly every DBA i've used (admit on other cars) have warped pretty quickly. Might be the way it's bedded in (my fault perhaps) but from my perspective the DBA's are more fragile in that sense. I wouldn't buy them, at least not for track. For the street, sure.

Unless you have wads of spare cash you'll find out whict bits to buy and where. Unfortunately the local Nissan parts prices are usually very exxy. For example i got a quote on a front hub/bearing assembly, and for god knows that reason it's 2x what the yanks pay. $500 vs $250, even after shipping it's going to be saving at least $100 for that single part. Martin can do an e-Tune for you btw, he's done a few for me and all great.

drinking team? i'll drink you so far under the table you'll need a dual band sonar!

Good to hear Shannons are behind it, and happy with the organiser.

I think most of us know who the organiser is. However that information is surprisngly missing from all the SM1000 paperwork, which is weird to say the least. Most of us who attended Temora1000 (which was an EXCELLENT event btw) know about the accusations about missing money etc. There is always two sides to every story; all the whispers need to be addressed and put to bed asap.

ahh ok. who is the principal organiser?

So who has organised this Event, is it the (prior) Temora 1000 organiser?

I would say if you're going to mod the thing for regular track duties then the relatively superficial differences between year models is obviously less of an issue. Buy the 09 and spend the extra on go fast bits. If the track bug bites you will need the cash trust me! If you acquire the car for DD duties you obviously have different priorities which will be satisfied with the newer car. It comes down to this simple choice IMO.

yeah if you don't get the timing just right it doesn't work. Sounds like it was in diagnostic mode the first time you tried (slow flashing).

I did this only this morning 1. Turn ignition switch from OFF to ON. 2. Air Bag warning lamp is on for 7 seconds and turns off, then turn ignition switch OFF within 1 second after the lamp turn off. 3. After ignition switch is turned OFF, wait for more than 3 seconds. 4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 two more times. (Perform 3 times in total.) 5. Turn Ignition switch ON. 6. The SRS lamp has been reset.

Agree with that, after 12k my first set of tyres were shagged.

the problem for me was actually the paint (inside the torx head) it was bad to the point where the bit just couldn't fit into the head (paint applied over the torx head) i'm guessing the OP has the same problem, it's probably variable on a car-by-car basis.

I've removed my stocker bootlid and suffered the same problem. It was a PITA. In the end i had to use some vice grips to clamp onto the bolt head to remove. Then when removed just buy some (m6 i think) bolts and use them going forwards. Another option is to take a larger torx bit and bash that in (sorry, messy i know)

Yes and no. Download the NSW superprint rules/regs first, don't start with general CAMs regs, there are massive compromises in the sprints rulebook to cater for the fact that road cars are permitted to run on a race track. Start here: http://supersprints....Provisional.pdf Basically there are three types of tyres used in sprints 1. Road tyres 2. Semi-slicks 3. Slicks Generally road tyres and semi-slicks can be used in types 1,2,3,SV and type 6 and slicks used in Type 4 and 5 (and SV in some cases, which essentially pushes you into type 4). It sounds like you'll be looking at Types SV or 6. You can find the definition / list of semi-slicks from for CAMS manual. Make sure to read the sprint manual to see where your car fits. The high level types are listed below (from the sprint rules/reg). Each type is split into several classes based on engine capacity. It's very easy to get involved in sprints and most people involved are pretty good. The guys who run the series will not want you switching classes willy nilly throughout the year however. You might be allowed to once or twice. The idea is to pick a class and contest it consistently.

It sounds like traction control / cold tyres etc. I've had this many times (with VDC on) well before you can detect actual wheelspin yourself. One way to test it would be to turn off VDC and take it for a spin again. My bet it doesn't happen, but wheel spins instead.

True but they are not RFT's if you want the non-RFT's that's cool

ok, "inexpensive", sure.

just to add to comments, Tempe tyres in Sydney will sell the RFT's for about $650ea

What would you consider a average family car? A well kitted commodore or basline bmw will run you around $60k easily. A HSV perhaps $80k, or even more. These aren't overly special cars, and the road is littered with them! thousands buzzing everywhere. And a lot of families have 2x cars. The R35 is about supercar performance on a "relative" budget. Personally, i wouldn't normally spend even $100k on a car (my family car is a holden) BUT given the relative bang for the buck i stretched to have the R35. But, there is no way i can afford nor justify OEM R35 service costs, fortunately there are other ways & means which are usually just as good, cheaper if not better in some ways. The guy who pays $650k for his GT2RS can probably afford to keep the latte machine at the local Porsche dealer running however. I consider the R35 "cheap" in comparison.