djr81

It means that longer duration cams work less well at low rpm. Here is a rough chart showing the durations of stock versus Poncams. Pretty obvious but I don't know what the lift is on the stock cams.

I once bought some parts & was sent the incorrect ones by Nengun. I simply got back in contact, explained they had sent stuff for a S13 not an R32 & asked what should I do. They gave me a (local) address to forward the bits to, sent me the correct parts & a nice freebie (unasked for) to make up for the hassle. Bottom line is Nengun are fine if you have sufficient time to spare before receiving the bits. But don't order stuff & expect it to be here by the weekend. I think the most of the problem is some customers who expect too much & are too paranoid and/or impatient.

A Sumitomo caliper equiped R32 GTR (Povvo pack) will have a 1 inch bore size on the master cylinder. A Sumitomo equipped R32 GTR (N1) with no ABS with have a 15/16 inch master cylinder, ie smaller with no ABS. A Brembo equipped R32 GT-R with ABS has a 17/16 inch master cylinder. A Brembo equipped R32 GTR with no ABS has a 1 inch master cylinder. There are two different brands of master cylinder which are seemingly randomly allocated. I can't exactly remember the BM number on the things. I can check the one I have spare at home if you are stuggling.

Which part of the corner are you talking about? Generally you can divide it into four. 1. Braking 2. Turn in 3. Mid corner/apex 4. Corner exit. Clearly you cannot stay on the limit of adhesion during all four parts. But it is a common technique in a GTR to trail brake to during turn in. I usually do. The down side is that it can put you at a difficult spot in the mid corner as the car will want to understeer as you get off the brakes. As for corner exit it is simply a matter of getting the car sufficiently neutral (ie trying to banish the understeer past the apex)so you can get on the powah & also programming the AWD system to keep the car balanced ( ie remove/reduce wheelspin & oversteer) If you watch the formula fords or other low(ish) powered cars with little aero the fast guys are the ones who look a little loose in the midcorner. This allows them to get the power down earlier on corner exit.

Be interested to find out what the stock cams lift & duration are. The numbers in the R32 manual don't make much sense.

What I am saying is stay away from tyres that are supposed to be a half way R compound track tyre. They are a big enough disaster on a circuit but are worse on a quarter mile strip. Those Falkens and Federals are the tyre equivalent of trying to get your missus half pregnant. If you are not that bothered by times ie won't get a proper drag tyre then just go and get a good road tyre & run that. But don't be too upset when the times suck.

So what exactly makes a Federal 595RS good for a drag tyre. The stiff sidewall? The (relatively) hard compound that doesn't soften when you do your pre run burnout? What you are looking at is a tyre with the characteristics of an R compound except for the grip. R compounds are pretty hopeless at the drags so one with less grip is even worse.

So you have decided to ignore all the advice that has been offered. Good work. The Federals & Falkens mentioned are an awful choice.

Feared because he is good or feared because he was the man most likely to have an awesome crash infront/beside/over/behind or generally into you? Having said that, his over taking move around Alonso (?) in Canada a couple/three years back should go down as the pinnacle of awesome.

Good. Be nice to see a Japanese driver with a bit of talent. Nakajima disappointed & Sato was only ok.

Run them (on the track) until you see the white cords hanging out. Then bin them. Make sure you check the inside of the rears especially.

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres. Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive. Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags. If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

The strain on a locked diff doesn't come from different tyre grip levels it is caused by the different speeds the tyres need to travel at and can't because you have a locked diff. A locked diff on a road car is not legal & is a bad idea. So you are worried about the tyres making it unroadworthy when he is running a locked diff?

Nice shot of the car in the current issue of race magazine. Good work.

The Nismo rear lip for the R32 is soft. Like the lip that goes on the bonnet. They are usually also warped, cracked & generally stuffed. This is one of those instances you are better off getting a copy.

No it doesn't. A slipping clutch does so because it is failing to transmit the torque of the engine. A torque converter works to increase the torque available at the back wheels by letting the motor develop more revs, power & torque and then transmitting it. Lock up autos are used because once the motor revs beyond about a couple thousand rpm you are better off having it all locked up.

Really? Wow.

Yes there doubtless are. Eg Motor 1 puts out 500Nm at 3000rpm. Motor 2 puts out 250Nm at 6000rpm. They both have the same power outputs - just that motor 2 is spinning twice as hard to produce that power. Yes it does work. Torque can be falling as power output is still rising. Motors never make their maximum power at the same revs as the maximum torque. That is why you see two figures quoted in car brochures, for example. Yes you are reading it wrong.

If you want the torque output of the motor it is easy. Divide the powah output by the engine speed. Powah measured in Watts (Watts equals kW times 1000) Engine speed measured in radians per second (Which equals rpm times 2 times pi divided by 60). That will give you the number in Newton metres. 9.81 Newtons is the force exerted by one kg of mass under the influence of gravity. So there is your year 10 science lecture for the day. Tractive effort can be best understood as the end result of the engine torque after it has found its way through the gearbox/diff/tyres. It will be at is highest at peak engine torque in the lowest available gear.

Just from my experience (& this an observation only) the 600 degree fluid )Motel) that gets flushed out of my calipers/lines comes out black. As in dark as dogs guts black. But even at that I have never managed to boil it. The pads (DS2500) go away before that happens. Atleast Ferodo publish a chart. Others like Project Mu only quote a lower & upper friction coefficient. Which is completely useless. But you are right - figures can lie & liers can figure. What a chart will tell you is how consistent the pad friction level is across a given temperature range. Which can tell you an awful lot about a pad. I am a big fan of the Ferodo pads. But be sure you get the right ones you need. The stuff Repco sells is not the motorsport product & even at that the DS2500 & DS3000 many people use are at the low end of the range.

My favourite other term is carbon fibre seat covers. By which they mean arse burning vinyl. Just like you Grandad's HQ Holden. JDM: the new sex spec.

I am trying to remember why my 32 lines did not fit (or seem to fit). They were a bit different. It was easier for me in the end to get some new lines seeing as I upgraded everything else. The Brembo bots are 1.5mm pitch, the Sumitomos are 1.25mm like most of the other Nissan stuff.

Your price of $1k may be a little high as even the obvious importer lists them at a discount to that figure. But you are right in that $3k for an TE37 in 18" is a non starter given the current exchange rate. Other of the Volk rims are doable within that budget. I would be happier paying a bit more than that for the real thing than paying for a knock off.

A few things about the rears that I discovered doing the conversion: The inner pads wear like a bastard if you don't remove the stone guard. The upper outer link on the rear suspension is pretty close to the guard so be a bit carefull that you don't get too much heat onto the bushes. I taped mine over with some metallic tape so help reflect the heat. The guard (from memory) hooks in under the hand brake shoes so you can't remove all of it. Oh and the hoses from the R33 are too short for the 32's.

You sure? DBA list the povvo pack R32 GT-R rears as 297 dia x 18 thick. The R33 & R32 Vspec are 300 dia & 22 thick. The other thing you need to do when bolting up a Brembo rear to a non Vspec R32 is bash the stone guard to get it out the way. The bit near the hub fouls so bash it gently - with a hammer.