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Everything posted by djr81
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Injector Duty And Fuel Consumption
djr81 replied to gwilkinson34's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
No there isn't a direct correlation, sorry. There are too many variables to work it out - to list just some - ignition advance, engine speed, combustion efficiency, pumping losses etc etc etc. A better guide is the AFR, but even that is not very good. -
As much info I have at the moment is as follows. The numbers are based on the sprung weight of my car & hence will be different for others, obviously. Stock R32 GTR info: Front spring rate 2.4kg/mm & damper rate based on 0.3m/sec - assumed to be linear Front bump damping ratio 0.25 (500N) Front rebound damping ratio 0.89 (1746N) Rear spring rate 2.7kg/mm & damper rate based on 0.3m/sec - assumed to be linear Front bump damping ratio 0.24 (402N) Front rebound damping ratio 0.66 (1108N) Nismo R32 GTR info: S tune damper set to the middle of 5 settings. Front spring rate 5.5kg/mm & damper rate based on 0.3m/sec - assumed to be linear Front bump damping ratio 0.36 (1079N) Front rebound damping ratio 0.64 (1912N) Rear spring rate 4.5kg/mm & damper rate based on 0.3m/sec - assumed to be linear Front bump damping ratio 0.32 (686N) Front rebound damping ratio 0.63 (1373) Notes: A reduction in srpung weight gives you an increase in damper ratio. An increase in spring rate gives you a lower damper ratio. What is deemed acceptable for bump & rebound ratios for the front & the rear is arguable. I am presently chasing some info from some of the damper manufacturers but who knows if they will come good.
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The point is that once you have calculated the damper rate for bump & rebound and worked out the acceptable range on what you want for both ends of the car it would be nice to be able to tell by a means other than the usual salesman blandishments that the shocks are, infact, what you are after. The information is not unknown or even unavailable. It is not a case of being so scientific, simply a case of being able to select a shock using some basic information. The suspension shops match springs to cars & to dampers. But htey do so in such a broad range that makes me less than 100% comfortable with the selection. Anyway, love to all, etc.
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Does anyone have any force velocity graphs of dampers installed on their Skylines? I am trying to work out what damper rates would be suitable for a spring change & am having trouble getting any decent information out of the suppliers. If you could make mention of the spring rates they go with that would be great.
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Depends what size etc you want. Try this lot http://www.robertcameron.com.au/contact.html
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Hmmm, can't find the bracket on their web pages. Plenty of other stuff, just no bracketry.
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R33gts-t Brake Setup Options For Track Use
djr81 replied to Victory's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
Yep. -
R33gts-t Brake Setup Options For Track Use
djr81 replied to Victory's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
The problem I have (well, one of many) is that for hillclimbs & driving on the road I need something that works from cold. So 3000's are no good. Where abouts in the US do you source the 2500's? I am sick of paying $400+ for the damn things. -
Believe your mechanic. You won't find Dot 3 fluid anywhere. Dot 4 is the replacement so use that. Dot 5 is a mutant offspring and should not be used. If you want track biased fluid get dot 4-600 which is a high temp dot 4 fluid.
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How Well Do You Know The R32 Gt-r. Godzilla?
djr81 replied to PR34CH's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Why is it a surprise to anyone? If you think about the 92 race the "winner" had three wheels left on it & the third placed car (Crompton & his sadly departed co driver - go look it up) were closing down the # 17 Sierra hand over fist. Basically had the race not been red flagged he would have won. Coulda woulda shoulda........... -
R33gts-t Brake Setup Options For Track Use
djr81 replied to Victory's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
You want to try pricing the 2500's for an F40. Then the inner pads get taper wear and you end up shuffling pad sets across the callipers to save a few bucks. -
Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones. The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also. So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?
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I got the twin lens kit with a 500D. I use the longer lens alot (for cars mostly) and the smaller one infrequently - mostly for boring family stuff. If you look at the price of buying the lens seperately you will see the value of buying the thing bundled. Also I would strongly recommend spending some coin on filters & hoods etc - etiher UV or polarizing. Polarizing are really good for cars & anything near water.
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What Makes A Brembo Caliper "f50" Or "f40"?
djr81 replied to _Wing_'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
This is an F40 calliper. To the best of my knowledge it looks no different from an F50 - piston areas aside. It does look and is different from the Brembo's found on the R33's etc & from the current range of Brembo callipers. Also to the best of my knowledge there is no difference between an F40 & an F50 pad (Which in turn is the same as a Brembo equipped BA Falcon, oddly enough). Lastly I am not aware of there being any difference in the rotor sizes that these callipers can accomodate ie an F40 can go on a 324 rotor (like mine) a 343 rotor or a 355 rotor. As can an F50. -
Late last month but it will have to do. Not very arty but well the thing is atleast crossed up and leaving tyre marks...
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I found that the difference in the stock upper link bracket that mounts to the chassis and the Nismo one is the the Nismo unit rotates the arm and you get a correctly aligned upper link which stops flogging bushes. Having said that the harder bush I had made has not let me down in a number of years & a much larger number of track days. The stock Whitleine one lasted one track day. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...ylinebnr32.html Set Contents Upper link bracket Transverse link Tension rod Changes Effective length of the tension rod has been shortened (-5mm) to provide optimum caster angle. Effective length of transverse link has been lengthened (+4mm) to provide optimal camber angle. The position of the installation holes on the upper arm of the upper link bracket has been changed to restrict the twisting that can result from high caster position, and provide optimal camber angle. * Changes in alignment, on standard vehicle height (Designed value): Caster angle: Before installation: 3°40’; after installation: 4°25’ Camber angle: Before installation: -0°55’; after installation: -1°25’ The figures above may vary by ±0.45, depending on individual vehicle characteristics.
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Well there isn't much more info. I took a bush, measured it up & then went down to a local plastics machine shop and asked them directly what can you make this out of - it is for a car suspension bush and needs to be stiffer than this stuffed one? For the price of a carton of beer I got a couple of bushes - I am not 100% sure what they are. The key bit is they need to be sitffer than the stock ones so they don't get "pinched" by the arm. The other solution to all this is buy the Nismo suspension link kit.
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It depends what you use them for, how much castor you run and what ride height you run. I have done a similar, if less dramatic thing to that style of bush in one track day. Basically the rear outer upper bush gets flogged out quickly. The solution I came up with was to use a harder bush in that position. Not had any trouble since. The compliance in the suspension is mostly in the castor rod. So if you run a castor rod without decent compliance and that style of bush kit you will be in line for an issue - IMHO anyway. Duncan's case is probably worse because he has to run stock rubbbish on a race car. Here the only workaround it to modify the attachment points of the inner arm at the bracket - this allows the arm to rotate. Which is pretty ugly. Also if you look at the Cusco fixed length arms they have (in plan view) a bigger offset. Something like 22mm instead of approx 15mm stock. This means less castor & presumably less load on the bearings that the Cusco arm uses.
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Or just look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...tr+spring+rates
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Well maybe but by 1993 Prost had been in F1 for what, fourteen years? The first disasterous hook up with McLaren, the huge pressure when he was at Renault, seeing "his" McLaren team taken from him by Senna, getting sacked by Ferrari then facing the prospect of Senna turning up again at Williams. Like you say after four world championships it would have been enough for anyone. The reality is most F1 drivers don't retire on their own terms. In recent times a list of top line drivers who did would include Prost but also Rosberg, Hakkinen and beyond that I struggle. On the other side of the coin you would have to list Mansell, Piquet, Senna, Kimi, JPM, Schumacher (to come) and on and on. For what it is worth Jack Brabham managed to retire at or near the top of his game (in 1970) so not every Australian driver does an Alan Jones.
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Look sorry if you took offense I certainly didn't mean any. I was just expressing my opinion that Webber isn't the sort of bloke just to chuck it all in - unlike Lauda who/which was the most apt reference (because of the GP) that came to mind. Just as an aside Piquet only left F1 because he could no longer get a decent drive. He went & did the Indy 500 (from memory) and smashed his legs up. A set of circumstances that I blame Tom Walkinshaw for. Like you say lots of drivers leave successful teams - mostly because they are either getting beaten by their team mate (eg Mansell from Ferrari or maybe Lauda from McLaren) or from just bad judgement about their teams prospects (eg Chris Amon from Ferrari). It is much less common for drivers to leave at the top of their game and not regret it. For example Alan Jones left Williams & did regret it. Both of his come backs were ordinary.
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To do the job properly you need bigger callipers, bigger rotors & probably a new master cylinder.
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The point was that the most famous example of a great driver walking away from a team happened at - wait for it - the Canadian Grand Prix. Niki Lauda did a number on Bernie Ecclestone's Brabham team in 1979. He walked out on the race weekend after a practice session. In 1981 Nelson Piquet won the drivers championship in a Brabham. So the point was that unlike Niki Lauda Mark Webber is unlikely to just walk away from his team. Next time I will try & remember most of the people here are completely unaware there was F1 before Schumacher turned up.
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Mark Webber and Niki Lauda aren't the same person. I just thought someone should point that out.