djr81

Yes. Start by learning more about how suspension works. That isn't a smart arsed answer & probably not the one you are after but I would seriously suggest you try & learn about car/suspension behaviour as a start point It will help you get more out of what you have & better guide you on what to buy in future.

The F40's (like most stuff on SAU) came from Roy. They are a good calliper & take a pad from the 4 pot Brembos on the Falcons of all things. Makes me wonder if all those Brembos on Foulcans can be put to better use? The rotors are stock R33 gear, ie 324x30. Still trying to find a 345 rotor to suit & get bracket made. Project Mu don't quote the offset for their 345 rotor for the Nissan (Part Number FC44 N102A & FS44 N102A with the callipers dependent on which calliper). I found the bias to be a little too far rearward so I reckon the bigger rotor would be excellent. The issue(s) I had with the ABS ECU are obviously that the cycle rate is rubbish but more so that the damn thing doesn't appear to actually release the locked wheel when you are on R compounds. Maybe the line pressure is too high but it doesn't function at all well as ABS on the track. Makes me wonder why bother carrying it. R33 computers/ATTESSA looks like an idea. No need for the 33 V-spec stuff but if the povvo pack gear works on a 32 that would be excellent. Although having said that with the Ruzic controller there isn't too much wrong with the 32 ATTESSA - as long as it is shimmed to spec.....

Can I ask a stupid question at this stage? I have upgraded my brakes to the Brembo size (F40, Brembo rears & larger master cylinder). The ABS on the R32 was originally pretty ordinary. With the larger brakes it is even worse. Does the povvo pack ABS unit have enough capacity to release the large pistons on the Brembo callipers or do you need a different unit? I suppose the question is: Is an R32 V-spec ABS unit different to the poverty pack GTR version? A second dumb question relates to the Vspec ATTESSA unit rate. Can you sling in a later unit from a 33 ie up from 4Hz to 100Hz & does this affect the ABS??? Sorry for the thread hijack.

To enter most motokhanas, sprint events, hillclimbs etc you need a level 2S cams licence. See www.cams.com.au To get that licence you need a car club membership (which No Limits can do for you) and to fill out some forms. No limits can set you up with a temporary licence on the night (If its a once off) or for the year. The No limits events are a good way to get an instructor in the car with you to help explain how to get around the circuit and also to get a good number of laps in with timing which can otherwise be pretty difficult. Highly recommend them.

They welcome new people. No one is expecting Ayrton Senna to turn up. Half the point of the excercise is to go & learn.

Speaking of things being painfull. I bought a new Canon SD card video camera. It takes good videos but appears to use a .mov file format which my dodgy Microsoft video editing software fails to recognise. Any ideas what I can use instead?

There was an R35 at Wanneroo on the weekend running 20" R888's.

I would also have a good look to see what project mu have available. They may be more expensive (depending on which of their rotors you buy) but I can assure you they are far superior to either brand you have listed.

Yeah but the point is you need to find the maximum grip the tyre has which will coincide with a certain amount of steering input (brake & accelerator input aside). If you find reach that point more or less steering input can & will only reduce the cars cornering grip. It is a point lost on too many people.

Try this for an explanation of the self aligning torque you feel through the steering wheel versus the slip angle the tyre is generating. http://www.creativecarcontrol.co.uk/modelgrip.htm

No they cannot. You won't get a GTR with a build date before August 1991 in white. Prior-term type: 1989 August 21st - Under carriage number 000051 – 017466 Mid-term type: 1991 August 20th - Under carriage number 212001 – Latter-term type: 1993 January - Under carriage number 300001 - 314649 Standard setting body color Prior-term type Gang ray metallic (KH2) Jet silver metallic (KG1) Dark blue pearl (TH1) Lead pearl metallic (AH3) Black pearl metallic (732) Mid-term type/latter-term type Crystal white (326) Spark silver metallic (KL0) Gang ray metallic (KH2) Lead pearl metallic (AH3) Black pearl metallic (732)

Yes they wanted half a million or more (Depending on which source you believe) to hold a race here in WA. The contract then goes up by a lazy $100,000 per year or so for the next five years. That money could otherwise be spent on upgrading facilities. The WASCC spends such money as they have on circuit upgrades. The V8 crowd want it every which way. Huge fees from the cricuits/promoters and massive amount spent on upgrades entirely for their own benefit. Without caring that one precludes the other. The GHD report to the government on the Wanneroo upgrade (Worth an est $24 million) clearly stated that it is not viable for the club to finance an expansion by itself. That is part of the reason for the state signing up to help out. They have already committed the first $6 million.

It is common for early R32's to be repainted white. The Japanese love it for some reason. You couldn't buy and early model R32 GT-R in white - mostly they are gun metal ghey. As long as it is done well then there really aren't any issues.

More of an oil heater, really.

Money is the root of the problem. Namely the massive sanctioning fee the V8's want. WA will never have a street race. It could never be made viable. Which is a good thing.

Sequence is roughly like this. At the start of the braking zone. Smash foot onto the brakes ie brake hard as you can without lockup early in the stop. If you need to heel/toe down change do it as early as the road speed allows (ie don't buzz the motor) with the idea of being in the gear you need on corner exit before you turn in. You are still braking as hard as you can at this point. Ease off the brakes as you turn the car in carrying a little brake pressure to the apex to keep the nose interested. (Mostly for GTR's as they are understeering cops) Get on the gas as soon as you can and always bear in mind once on it it stay on it - don't stab at it. On some circuit set ups this may even happen before the apex of the corner. The best advice is buy a book on track driving techniques that includes an explanation of tyre behaviour and chassis behaviour. There is a lot more to it than can be explained in one post let alone one chapter of a book. Try amazon & pitstop for the books.

Two things come to mind: 1. The BOM is the source of information on the weather and atmospherics. 2. Aftermarket BOV's are a waste of time. You are far better off spending money elsewhere.

To be honest I can't see anyone outside of the obvious four teams being competitive. Wonder how Rosberg will go? I think Renault & particularly Williams will struggle. Not sure that any of the new teams will have their act even half together. The Campos rumours sound pretty ugly.

I have done both. Had them re-sleeved and bought new ones (when I wanted an upgrade). There is really nothing wrong with either option.

Got a bit of work to do in a short period of time then.... Torque Split is running fixed with 40-55-60psi in the transfer case (ATTESSA eliminated) - this will make things interesting. Can I ask why you chose to do it that way? Cusco make good, (albeit fixed) sway bars. I would recommend one for the rear, not so much for the front where softer offerings may be better.. Spring rates are dependent on where you are running (ie what track) but also (importantly) on the Attessa set up. With a fixed set up you could arguably afford to increase the rear spring rate relative to the front to help remove understeer.

Just be aware the sun load sensor will give you a fault code when you do the diagnostic & the car is not in the sun.

When you only ever refer to it as "the Nissan" because you can no longer be bothered explaining stuff about it to people who don't already know.

There is a thread where that exact question is asked/answered. Have a search, shouldn't be too hard to find.

Should feel like a turbo diesel compared to RB20 powah. At the end of the day it is a turbo motor & when you start running anything like a sniff of boost (1 bar or better) the peak torque is going to move up the rev range. The issue is, I guess, how to make good torque in the midrange (say 4000rpm) without it dieing in the arse up the top end.