djr81

Well ask & you may be surprised. They are (from memory) more expensive than the Japanese stuff but not massively so. Also it probably depends on the exchange rate a bit too so it would be worth asking the question.

My R 32 R had Whiteline eccentric bushes in it with a slightly lowered front ride height & Cusco castor rods. It destroyed the bushes at Wanneroo iwithin one days running. I would reckon a few other people have had that experience. At the end of the day you need to address the upper link & mount so that it lasts & so that you get some front end grip. In the absence of anyone making a decent front upper arm that can use bushes I made my own. Teamed with a Mismo link bracket (which is a stock with with different drill holes) it works fine. Marlin is 100% right also. I have seen alot of people with flash cars that couldn't drive out of sight on a dark night. For anyone in WA who wants to learn they could do alot worse that the the WASCC Competition Driving school. For $200 bucks it is a good way to spend some money. There is one on the 1st November.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc. They come with a lifetime guarantee. See here. http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

Actually if you ask nicely you can get a Cusco brake stopper that ties into the strut brace for a good price. Saves buying two different bits of gear.

Nah mate - paint all your home built bits - err, sorry custom fabricated components - Nismo silver. In other words whatever shade the rattle packs from Supercheap Auto come in. That is what I do anyway.

It is worth replacing both front arms & castor rods with A/M gear. But the rears, on a road car? Waste of money. On an R32 GTR you need a rear bar abour the same size as a scaffold tube.

Yeah more expensive & the killer punch is it is also less fun to drive.

All of what teh Baron said is spot on. But the few things highlighted above you should take to the bank. I would note that a set of RE55's in 17's is about $500 cheaper than the same width in 18's. Also driver training is the best/cheapest way of improving lap times when you are starting out. All that is sage advice, but this should be tattoed on the forehead on anyone who modifies a car.

Sorry mate, didn't mean to tease. If I did, however, I would have posted this: http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=14651 And this: http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=14650

55 seconds (Sub or otherwise) is actually a pretty good lap time in a GTR on the short circuit. But you need to remember that it (the short circuit) has only the pit straight where you can use any of the horsepower. The rest of it is corners & they are fiddly, mickey mouse ones for the most part. Frankly I can only think on one bloke who runs sub 55's in a R32 R with any regularity. If you want a good short circuit time sort the suspension & forget about the motor. God I hope they hurry the fk up with the track upgrade and we never have to use the short circuit ever again. There are only four real corners at Wanneroo. Only two of those are any fun. Guess which two the short circuit doesn't use????

Nah engines in the wrong end. This is what you want.

On an RB26 it is under the inlet manifold in line with number 3 cylinder or thereabouts. There is a screw in the front of it. Clockwise to lower the idle speed, anticlockwise to raise it. If you car is hunting at idle then adjust the thing clockwise.

The ones Nissan put in it when they built it will be fine. Just get some cam gears. There are 4,268 threads on this very subject if you want to look into it further.

Don't go near any of those cams with the turbos you are running. Infact keep the stock cams.

Hmm, well without knowing where those number come from - I reckon they are hopelessly wrong. There is no way an R31's cd figure is that low.

Eh? Sierra Costworth 1240kg. Nissan tractor R32 GTR 1430kg. So, approx 190kg. Which is about 420lb.

Well yeah. I guess not tearing up money by wrecking stuff would be the start point? So you look at the motor, the brakes, the tyres. The motor is pretty obvious. The brakes are harder. Brake fade, cracked/worn rotors & stuffed pads will be your lot until you upgrade them. If your suspension isn't half way decent you will continually butcher tyres. At $500 a corner you don't want to do too much of that. But you also need to learn to drive a car on a track. Which isn't easy. Then you have to ask the question is the journey the fun bit or the destination. Take the front suspension as an example. I have been through more iterations that I've had hot dinners lately. So what advice do you give? Go to a set up that can provide all the caster/camber & grip you will eventually want. Or a lesser option that won't scare the pants off people on cold tyres but that works on the road?

The problem in all our advice is, well, really, where do you start? You can't go near a track without the brakes being sorted. You can't go round a corner without the tyres/suspension being sorted. You can leave the corner without the Attessa & diffs being sorted. You can't do anything much without the motor being sorted (for reliability anyway). All that & the bloke still wants to drive it on the road. It s a problem given the GT-R's that work on the track are laughable on the road. How does four or five degrees neg camber on the front end go over when plod pulls you up for a 'random' breath test?

Well said. To be honest even with a rebuilt ATTESSA system I still find that making changes to the way the ATTESSA functions via the Ruzik controller is a worthwhile exercise. Some circuits like more front bias to the torque distribution, some less. Alot of GT-R's doing good lap times are heavilly reliant on their 4WD system & mega horsepower. Not everyone can have or even wants the latter but to get the old dears to punch out of the corners you have to have the former working well.

Rebuilding the transfer case is expensive. But it wont necessarilly need rebuilding. The case has a series of clutch plates in it. Like all clutches (wet or dry) the are subject to wear. If you look at the manual you will see that Nissan offer a list of end plates/shims of different thicknesses. These make sure the clutch packs are in a range that allows the ATTESSA system to function as it should. What happens is they get old, the gaps open up & then the system is slow to react. Hence you get oversteer. So yeah, a new end plate may be all you need to make it work properly. Hell it may still be ok. So find that out first. The problem is that until you take the thing apart & measure it you don't know which shim size you need so the job takes a while. The other thing to do is find a Ruzik ATTESSA controller. If they are still available. These are an important tuning aid for corner exit behaviour. If the motor is ex an R33 then the oil pump should be ok as it is of the better type. Check you harmonic balancer to make sure it is still in good order though.

He did the Busso round of the Speed Event Series in it and belted everyone.

For my 10 cents worth I would get a Quaiffe front & a 1.5 way rear. I have a Nismo rear LSD - the Pro model. The most common adjective used to describe it is "nasty". Frankly the TT or whatever Nismo call it (the version with a lesser ramp angle) would have been fine. Basically I don't beleive that a GTR needs much in the way of rear LSD & certainly nothing in the way of diff locking on the over run. You have to drive them square like teh Baron says. For me that involves trail braking hence the front LSD comment. The focus of your set up (in my opinion anyway) is finding as much front end grip as possible (a hard thing to do in a GTR) & making sure the ATTESSA system reacts the way you want it to. It is common to see GT-R's on the track that understeer on the way into a corner (because of no front end grip) then oversteer on the way our (because their 4WD system is not working well). The adjective used to describe these cars is usually "slow".

Hmm, when I went to school they were hydraulic.

Has anyone used these and how do they stack up against the Ferodo DS2500. http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/

Um, it shouldn't be hard at all. Find the HICAS units under the parcel shelf. Grab the plug & match up pin 18. hicas_pins.pdf