djr81

The proper way to do it is the same as the Gibson Motorsport GTR's. They ran a radiator with a reduced height which allowed plenty of room for an airbox fed from the grill. If you haven't got a radiator yet I would suggest this is the best way of going about it. Failing that take some air feed from the ducting on the passenger side under the headlight.

Well to be fair that was all he asked about. I chucked a lightened flywheel in my car & it is still driveable on the street. To put it in perspective a cam change had more of an influence on how it responded off idle than the flywheel weight change.

People who say that a lightened flywheel reduces the amount of torque the car produces are speaking through their collective arses and should be ignored. For track work run the lightest flywheel you can find. If you can save 3kg on rotating mass then do it. For drag work run a light flywheel but you have to be able to launch the car & the lighter the flywheel the more sensitive it is to getting the launch rpms spot on. Also you are more likely to have clutch issues so what you have been told makes good sense. For drifting just cable tie the old busted one together like all the other drift crap. Then talk it up with the aid of incomprehensible hand gestures & a stupid fitted cap worn at an angle.

I will probably end up buying a new crank - just the stock Nissan one. Other than the head gasket I am not fussed. May just let the engine builder sort what they need. It is easy enough to drive the car to Perth & get the train home to Bunno. Then do the reverse when it is finished. I have a couple mobs in mind for the build but I want to get my ducks in a row before I annoy anyone too much. The "custom secret specification" types wont be getting a look in.

Yeah they are Mahle. Rods are the basic H patterns - ie not with the flash bolts. Good enough for what I want. Got some ARP studs as well. Need the head gasket, other general gaskets, bearings and to decide about the crank, ie new or refurbished existing. The bolt on stuff is all covered. Visa card needs to recover a bit too. Hard bit is finding someone over here in WA to build it, ie knowledgeable, interested, trustworthy & who will actually listen to what I want. Unfortunately we have tuner wars whereby whoever you are talking to will promise you their tuner/engine builder is brilliant and going anywhere else will ensure the engine blows in very short order.

I have a soft spot for Bargs vs Murphy at PI in the early/mid 2000's.

I was just going by the graphs. So there is a fair chance I have it wrong. It depends on how you extrapolate the Z32 curve or even if it runs above the 4.25V shown. It may be worth checking my PFC to see what the maximum AFM output voltage was to get an idea of how it relates to RWHP. Nismoid: out of interest how many horsepowers do you reckon a Z32 is good for? Stabby: I see what you mean - either 2*300=511 or the 300 or the 500 is wrong????

I am a bit the same. Cant watch it live any more. Too much filler no killer. The over blown hour plus long intros & all the shite they broadcast is hopeless. Glad they canned the shootouts too. Cromley is good value. Has been for years. If you bought Chevrons volume four (?) of the old ATCC DVD's you would have got to hear him at Oran Park circa 1983. Gold that is, as is Moffat's fan friendly demeanour.

Wasnt Longhurst vs Morris quality. "There was a bit of push and shove," Holdsworth said "I went up and asked for an apology because he took me out, but he wouldn't give me one. I told him what I thought of him and he pushed me and it got a bit ugly. Which I guess means it looked like two girls going at it with handbags.

Cheers. I think I will end up with a MLS of some description. Maybe ACL or Tomei. Here are some other bits I prepared earlier which should fix a couple of weaknesses.

Yeah, thanks Baron

Top points for Holdsworth & Davison punching on in the pits after the race. But how come Whincup gets away with punting Bargs when Courtney doesn't?

Yeah I see what you mean. Depends on how you extrapolate the line I guess. Looking at it again there is probably not much in it. I guess it doesnt matter much anyway as the PFC is looking for 2 AFM's.

Yeah I remember the olden days before all the time attack hype. Good times, good times.... Motorsport (in just about any form) is expensive to win. Trying hard in the midfield, less so.

The Z32 basically reports the same voltage as the Nismo AFM after 500kg/hour. The stock AFM hits 5 volts (ie max voltage) at just over 700kg/hour or about 26lb/min in old speak (which aligns with turbo maps). In the olden days (When I went to uni) the rule of thumb was 1 lb/min of airflow = 10 horsepowers. Which ties in pretty well with your number. You can measure the AFM voltage off your PFC hand controller which then tells you (With reference to the curve) your airflow. Then go to the turbo map, match the airflow & the boost & you have the duty point for the turbo.

Here is the AFM versus voltage graph for the AFM's. Air flow is directly proportional to horsepower. So your single Z32 AFM is capable of measuring alot less air than the twin RB26 items.

The power steering pump weights bugger all. The response of your steering is unaffected - it is just the effort to get the wheels to turn is less with power steering. Feel is fine with Skyline steering. What power steering does allow is to maintain a reasonable wheel weight whilst running fully sik & hektic castor angles that the drift nuggets appear to enjoy. It is hard to be subtle with the steering when you need arms like Popeye to get the thing to turn.

The concrete answer is to get a rim with the correct offset & one whose width matches the tyre. Then run a camber number closer to one degree than three.

Thanks Baron. They do a 1.2mm (1.0 is discontinued) in 87mm. There is a metal super Grommet one, presumably the other type is a Wallace?

Seriously dont get too hung up on this stuff. Most of the braces sold do very little other than lighten your wallet and weigh down your car. Chuck a strut brace at it & leave it at that.

Cheers for the info.

The Nismo diff is noisy irrespective of which setting you have it on. The lowest setting is alot less nasty than the tightest, however. I found that using something other than the fluid provided with the diff does quieten it down a little.

I have an RB26 just about to undergo a rebuild. Nothing spectacular the number will be about 500rwhp on 20lb's. Obviously it needs a head gasket of some sort. Are there any preferred styles/brands etc. What size should the gasket be relative to the pistons? Does (say) an 86.5mm piston need a certain sized gasket that may be different for an 87mm piston? Lastly there are a number of different thicknesses available. Is the 1.2mm thickness essentially the "stock" size. EG 11044-RRR46 Nismo Metal Head Gasket

They just have large signage on the launch & test cars so everyone knows who the tyres belong to. By the time they start racing properly the tyres will be covered in black so you wont even notice the branding. Hell half the time it was near on impossible to pick who was on what tyre anyway. Anyway McLarens look better in orange so who really cares.

Bolt pattern?