djr81

Yeah the rear of the two drilled holes is lower and the front ones are closer to the centre. So the arm (bushes really) is loaded less with more castor. The wheel needs to sit in the middle of the wheel arch so as the castor angle increases the amount of twist increases. Less castor (like Cusco arms) less load. The nylon bush was a cheap and nasty fix that I got done for beer. Turns out it was a permanent fix. You only need one per side. The cost of the Nismo bits is pretty stupid given: 1. The bracket is a stock bracket with different drill holes and a coat of silver paint. 2. The LCA is a stock bit with the outer pick up point moved 5mm or so outwards. Also painted silver. 3. The castor rod is a stock item but a few mm shorter & you guessed it, painted silver. But they fix problems, increase castor & camber so in the end you take the pain. The worst of it is ripping out the ABS unit just to get the LHS one in and having to bleed the brakes.

Bride are no good if you have child bearing hips. Velo on the other hand are recommended for the larger of frame.

Just a couple of things to note about the upper arms: There are TWO measurements you need to think about. The first is obvious - the length of the arms. The second less so. As you can see from the photo the arm is not straight - the outside pivot is forward of the inside pivot. From right to left the arms are: 1 Standard. 182mm long (from memory) and has an offset of about 15mm 2. Cusco that is 10mm shorter than stock & with an offset of 22mm for LESS castor hence less load on the bearings (in this case) 3. Shorter arm I had made to basically replicate the Cusco dims but use Whiteline bushes. 4. Shorter (again) arm with less offset. The thing is you can only run such an offset with the modified inner mounting bracket from Nismo otherwise it just tears itself to bits. Also the white bush you can see is one turned up out of Nylon because the Whiteline one is too soft & keeps failing. Nylon hasnt given up yet after alot of track days.

Duncan is right the front arms on an R32 are a horror story. If you just use the Whiteline bushes & go near a track you destroy the bushes unless you keep the stock castor rods. Even then I am not sure they last very well. This is what I did. Bought the Nismo front end suspension link kit. This gets you a longer LCA (which helps a little), a revised upper link mounting bracket (which helps eliminate the too much castor trashing bushes issue) and a castor rod which I didn't use. Then having given up trying to find anything decent I had some upper arms made & used a Whiteline bush kit. That way you get to choose the castor & the camber. If you want the thing to be half decent on the track without resorting to stupid spring rates you will need over four degrees of each. Sway bars are Cusco rear & Whiteline front. The Whiteline ones are a bit crap because they are solid bar & weigh a tonne. Cusco & Nismo (I think) ones are atleast hollow but are non adjustable. The adjustability on the Whiteline ones is a bit bullshit anyway becasue the front is always full soft & the rear full hard. You also need an attessa controller (for more front bias) which allows you to run a harder rear spring for a little less understeer. Not sure which Cusco arms are being referred to (Above, a couple posts back) but they weight a tonne and use bearing which I would imagine would last atleast 5 minutes. I have a pair with stuffed bearings in the shed at home. I wouldn't recommend them.

They went wrong when they realised they can make more money out of selling crap merchandise than from making cars. I put it about the same period as when Schumacher started driving for them but some argue it was slightly previous to that. Anyway the 288 was one of the last of the good cars they made. It looks well hard & isnt tarnished by the crap engineering the F40 has in it. They were still trying in those days - not just selling junk to rich fkrs who dont know any better. Lets all go to Ferrari world and puke in their roller coaster.

They are actually dirt cheap brand new aswell. No one needs pay any where near sticker price. I got a Foulcan for much the same reasons. Aircon blows cold, cruise control works well, car is quiet and comfortable to drive. Damn thing has ipod connectivity & blueteeth from the factory. It even rides/handles pretty well - ESC is switchable but will let you get a little sideways when it is on. Plus I can still move about when I get out of it after a three hour drive. Something I cant do well when I get out of my GTR.

Just pull the wheel off and measure how far out past the brake rotor the stud projects. Then look at the back of the rim and see if it is solid where the stud will sit.

Nissan specified 7.5W30. Understand that it gets much colder in Japan than Oz. Most people are happy with 10W50 which is the cheapest of the Mobil 1 viscosity range. Other people who use other oils end up with different ranges. Anyway it is not really the fault of the oil. Also make sure the blow by has somewhere to go. Which means running a PCV. Cars without them spit more oil.

Yeah probably. For a track car - do it. For a road car it is probably neither here nor there. But then we are all guilty of spending money on our cars for little gain or just for the satisfaction of doing it properly.

Because I needed a new one anyway.

Actually I pulled most of the numbers out of my arse. 200mm was an estimate because I could not remember the actually number. The points I made still stand. Also it isnt a cut and paste.

Seeing as some of you want numbers, here are numbers: Take the case of (for example) an R32 GTR. Weighs 1600kg with drivers & fuel. It travels at 72km/h. Why 72km/h? Because it gives you nice simple numbers to work with when converted into other units. Things to know: Kinetic Energy (Linear) = ½ * mass * velocity squared. This is how we represent the energy of the car travelling in a straight line. Like all energy it is measured in Joules. Rotational kinetic energy (ie flywheel) = ½ * rotational inertia * angular velocity Rotational inertia is for the flywheel, obviously. For a cylinder (which is what the flywheel can be represented as, albeit a very short one) I = ½ * mass * radius squared. Angular velocity is engine speed, measured in radians per second (Not rpm) SO: Kinetic energy = ½ * mass * velocity squared =1/2 * 1600 8 20^2 =320,000 Joules. Rotational inertia of the flywheel calculation. Mass = 10kg. Radius = 0.2metres (Approx) I = ½ * 10 * 0.2^2 = 0.2kgm^2 Rotational velocity of flywheel. GTR does 28.5 km/h per 1000rpm in fourth. ie 72 km/h = 2500rpm. 2500rpm = 265 radians per second. Rotational kinetic energy calculation E ® = ½ * rotational inertia * angular velocity =1/2 * 0.2 * 265^2 =7000 Joules. So the amount of kinetic energy in the rotating flywheel = 7000 Joules The amount of kinetic energy in the car = 320,000 Joules. Or to put it another way 2%. So a 3kg lighter flywheel will be less again, about 1.4%. If you think you can feel or even measure a 0.6% difference you are dreaming. It is the equivalent of 10kg of dead weight. So what does this all mean? The major difference in the flywheel masses are the following: 1. With a heavier flywheel there is more rotational inertia in the engine which is felt when the clutch is in. This extra inertia feels better when you pull away (slowly) from the lights. It also acts as a mass damper to make the engine idle smoother. In other words it makes Nanna happy. 2. A lighter flywheel stores less energy than a heavier one. If you have a track car energy stored in the flywheel is energy not used to make the car go quicker. So you run the lightest flywheel you can. 3. The importance (or otherwise) of flywheel mass is larger in lower gears as the engine is rotating faster relative to the cars speed. When the car is in gear you cannot tell how heavy the flywheel is.

Not sure that it is. Super sprints have been around for years. It has become more popular over the many years & the grids of cars have been getting quicker and with higher quality cars in them. Then the "time attack" thing comes along & the hype mongers pronounce the whole idea was invented in Japan a couple of years ago. Then a bunch of fitted cap types get on board because A: Drift is dying & B: Hype. Which is pretty much what is wrong with "time attack". Dont misunderstand me I love the cars many of which are head and shoulders infront of most of what is allowed to go racing. Full credit to those who are having a go. As an aside there are state based super sprint championships & a yearly national Australian championship. Done under CAMS. I find the race types who want to be seen as really hard profess to hate CAMS & V8 Supercars. Less so time attack.

Calm down dude. You will burst a blood vessel or something. Hug? Actually I wondered wtf Nissan are thinking when I was looking at a busted Lanchester balancer in the sump of a 4 cylinder diesel in a Navara.

Yeah maybe. Dont mount the shock on the bottom eyelet & see if you can move the shaft around where it goes through the top plate. Just understand that a fair bit of force is present when you drive around on the road & FFS dont do this with a car on a jack.

Yes but that isnt going to tell you anything about the state of the top bearing. If that is the noise it happens when the wheels goes down into a pothole or an undulation. The top mount of the damper shaft then gets unloaded and when the load comes back on (ie the wheel gets to the bottom of the pothole) the top bearing goes clunk.

You are missing my point. Even when the spring is fully compressed the gas pressure within the shock absorber will force the suspension onto full droop. It takes a bit of force to compress the shock absorber on its own.

Falcon can handle 2300kg. NFI about the commodore.

Lycra clad promo chicks>all that stuff.

Just keep in mind that removing the spring tension wont remove all tension from the shock as there is the internal gas pressure forcing the thing apart. So make sure you have some decent pry bars to get the things out.

All a flywheel does is store energy. So yes a heavy flywheel stores more energy as the motor moves up through its rev range than a light one. But when you put your foot on the brake that energy is converted to heat. So clearly in a track car (part one of the original question) there is really no downside of having a lightened flywheel. A flywheel doesn't balance movements. It dampens them. A straight six (like in oh, say a skyline) has a balanced motor whereas a POS Emo has a four which has a second order harmonic that only a pair of Lanchester balancers can ever remove. So yes your bucket of bolts four cylinder diesel may well benefit from a heavy flywheel. But really, so what?

Time attack is a super sprint with boundless hype. It is almost all about the hype. You know, like drifting was a few years back before it died in the arse. It is the fastest growing motorsport because any number of people who dont have a pharken clue decided it is. So some lean-to in a back alley in a rural slum in Japan gets written up as the greatest, all inspiring leader in time attack trends. Or some fourth rate (if it is that good) track in a desert in America with all you can eat tumbleweed is now the centre of the time attack universe. It must be true I read it in a magazine & saw it on a DVD.

In a way that is sort of the point. No one really cares if there is not a race in any one country as long as there is a race somewhere. Korea or Bahrain or Malaysia or Abu Dhabi or China or the sphincter of the universe or pick any country with no motorsport heritage. Nobody cares if they miss a GP. Well ok maybe there are a few sponsors who do. Maybe. On the other hand losing Monaco or Spa or Silverstone does upset people. The upshot of this is Bernie can just go on extorting money from the current list of despots until they have nothing left. Then move on. The hard bit comes when you have to drop somewhere like France or Canada or Australia because they can no longer affort the stupid sanctioning fees. Nice work on the auto correct. I am guessing that was you Baron?

Mine did a not dissimilar thing - easiest check is the rear sway bar bushes & more particularly the drop links. If there is slop in them chances are that is your problem.

Can I ask where you got the radiator from?