djr81

No.

Good sentiment. Unfortunately I reckon the finishing order will be: The Tool. The gimp in the cheaterer Ferrari. All that is good & noble in F1 ie Webber. Someone down the back behind the try hard midfielders, ie past where everyone stops caring: Hamilton. Webebr has to qualify P1 & make a decent start. Not much hope there then. But fk it I will even promise to use the Yellow Pages again if he can pull it off.

I made a blue for the listing on page one with the stockers - confused a before with an after. According to the Nissan manual the exhaust closes 7 degrees before TDC. Which makes the stock cams: Intake 240 degrees 7 BTDC 53 ABDC Exhaust 236 degrees 63 BBDC 7 BTDC For me that is alot different to the 260 degree Poncams. I would be really interested to see the set ups of those making gains going larger than stock cams at about 4000rpm. As for the off idle bit I found the Poncam B's (with -5 turbos) to require a noticeable amount more throttle to drive at low rpms relative to even a type A setup.

I had this in mind. I installed the Poncam B's with -5 turbos on an Rb26 with stock internals. The result sucked teh wang & the cams were replaced. Car is much better now. Doing this right is important. But even doing everything right as per your list will not magically allow an RB26 with Poncam B's make any decent horsepower at about 4000rpm. They dont cause idle issues - or shouldn't anyway. They do make the car horrible to drive off idle. A check of the compression figures for the car before & after the cam install will show you why.

Not used these guys but the Stoptech rotors look cheap. Shipping will sting but it cant be any worse than ex Japan, surely? http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/project...98-p-18943.html http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/stoptec...8-p-104720.html

Gees man, that is the whole purpose of this forrum these days. More seriously the problem with the type B Poncam is that it kills your torque at 4000rpm (114km/h on the dyno in 4th) without giving you a commensurate increase in top end because the cam lift is not as it could be.

For my 10 cents worth the type B cams suck teh balls. If you have a proper look you get the following: Open Closed Centreline Stock cams 14 degree overlap (commonly modded to 20 degrees) Intake 240 degrees 7 BTDC 53 ABDC 113 degrees Exhaust 250 degrees 65 BBDC 7 ATDC 118 degrees Tomei Poncam A 31 degree overlap Intake 260 degrees 20 BTDC 60 ABDC 110 degrees Exhaust 252 degrees 61 BBDC 11 ATDC 115 degrees Tomei Poncam B 35 degree overlap (modded to 33 degrees) Intake 260 degrees 20 BTDC 60 ABDC 110 degrees Exhaust 260 degrees 65 BBDC 15 ATDC 115 degrees Note the only difference between type A & B is the exhaust cam. Having reverted from the type B to a smaller inlet & exhaust cam the thing goes much, much harder at 4000rpm without giving up anything worth worrying about at the top end when running approx 1 bar on 2860-5's. But for what it is worth the type B's idle fine. The most common reason the RB26 will hunt at idle with them in is you have the idle screw adjusted too far out. Lastly I wouldn't bother doing cams until you have the motor out. Only then is it worth thinking about.

Do a compare & contrast between the pads on the Sumitomo calliper & those on the Brembo. You will be amused by how similar in area they are....

Closer to the front is harder. Front full soft. Rear full hard. Never set mine to anything but those settings. Bucket of nails still understeers at Wanneroo. I thought you hard sorted the turbos 20 pages back??? Oh and the only way you can get E85 in WA in to buy it in a tin.

If you are getting the box rebuilt it would pay you to make sure the selector forks are in good condition.

There is actually someone who does F1 drive days. From memory (dodgy at best) it is in France & they use old AGS chassis.

But... You and I go shopping and find exactly what we're looking for.

Yeah there is 10Hz stuff on their website but I am so old school I have NFI what any of it does. Just want a decent data logger that uses GPS & allows me to feed in other signals like rpm, TPS & steering angle. Teh GTAAAAH's have all that already wired into their systems but unless you spend alot of coin there doesn't appear to be an easy way of getting it into a logger with GPS.

These any good? http://www.qstarz.com.au/index_files/Page599.htm

You wont have any problems with an SA whatever helmet at a Cams event. Good to see the 2010's are out shortly. Just make sure the thing fits properly - that is about the only downside of buying a helmet from overseas.

CAD stuff is easy. Hard part is finding a CNC shop to do them at a reasonable price. Any ideas?

Upsde down Miss Jane. The fat swaybar needs to be at the rear, the thin one at the front. Stock sway bars are hopeless when married to high spring rates.

Nah you have to pay extra for the clunk. Stockers are overwhelmingly quiet.

Well I have the -5 Garretts on my 32 R & to be honest I don't have any real issue with lag. Just leave stock cams in it & bolt on some cam gears. If you are only running 400rwhp (like me) then it isn't turbolag that is going to be the issue it is just outright lack of grunt. Jimmah Eames R33 R that won the Collie hillclimb has phone numbers for rwhp as an example. On the tight and twisty SES rounds (like Busso, Jacks hill, Mt Clarence) the Emo's go better than the GT-R's anyway. Steve Jones flogged everyone at Busso in his. But as long as the motor will punch out of second gear fiddly chicanes it will be fine on the hillclimbs. The tyres fouled the guards at the rear. You need to roll the lip out of them to stop the side of the tyre getting gouged. The front wont be a problem as you have to run heaps of neg camber to try & make the car push less so the top of a +22 usually ends up well inside the guard lip. If you run alot of castor the tyre can & will scrape the front of the guard liner but that is only plastic & doesn't really hurt anyone/thing. As for tyres every man & his dog runs SR2 RE55's on GT-R's. Go & see Kerry Wade at Bridgestone in Bentley. Should be about $2k for the four.

As the car is in Perth there are some things to go by. If it is to be run at Wanneroo there really isn't much downside in the larger turbo. If it is run in kharnas/AHG etc then get the smallest turbo that will make the power you are chasing. Is the 400-500hp at the wheels or not? A +22 rim on an R32 with a 255/40/17 RE55 will foul the guard. Mine did. So you will need work to clear +11's. It is a track setup. Hence needs whatever camber/ride height makes the car go hard, not whatever is needed to make the tyre fit. Plus remember you will be (or should be) smashing the thing over kerbs to make lap time - which doesn't go well with all this flush fitment bullsht going about.

For $20k you are better off finding one locally. You can see it, touch it, hell, fondle it if you want to. You can also do any number of checks to make you happy before handing over the cash. At the end of the day it is a GT-R & it will have been flogged, irrespective of whether it is ex Japan or has made it to Australia in the last couple years of its 15 year life. If you are overly worried about stuff breaking an R32 is probably not the right choice anyway.

The exhaust cam on the Tomei's actually opens at 65 BBDC - the same as the stocker. Actually the difference between the A & the B's is all in the exhaust cam - it has an extra 8 degrees duration on the B, ie 260 rather than 252.

Yes there are. You need to re shim the valve train to get the clearances right. So at minimum you need spare shims for that. Also, if the motor is standard you are wasting your time installing type B Poncams as it won't improve performance in any meaningful way, just reduce midrange torque. If you must change cams the type A are a far better bet.

A 255/40/17 will foul the rear guards in an RE55 tyre on a +22 offset. Mine did anyway. So it will get ugly in a +15. The front is a bit different. With the amount of neg camber you need to run you will probably get away with a wider offset than a +22. Bridgestone recommend a 9" rim for a 255 bag tyre - you don't have to use drift tyre/rim sizing combinations.... Check also that a 17" rim will clear your brake rotor/calliper. 17" usually means 3345 rotor at maximum unless you are carefull with calliper & rim selection.

Random brake fetish questions: The Stop techs look all the world like F40/F50 clones. Do they share the same mount dimensions? Who are you getting to machine the brackets? Whose rotors you using. Lastly these folk may be worth trying for pads: www.polepositionusa.com These are the DS2500 pad for F40's. NFI if they match the Stoptechs, however. Note the PFC cross reference. http://www.polepositionusa.com/ferodo-frp3...-brake-pads.htm