djr81

Well I have the same cams, turbos and get full boost by 4500rpm. But then again I am only running 15# for a desultory 435rwhp and haven't tuned the cam gears. So I guess is all relative. How much power have you got at 4000rpm? Mine is about 165rwhp @4000rpm.

Evo Brembos....

This: http://www.theage.com.au/news/world/bscand...6850754372.html

The bottom line is that unless someone has the compressor maps for the HKS turbos (The garrett ones are freely available) comparing the two is subjective as much as anything. Comparing different dynos with different tunes & RB's with different bolt ons & in differing condition is difficult to impossible. Oh and just to declare my prejudice I have the dash fives. They are a nice turbo, but for a street car you can get into more than enough trouble with stock cams & HKS SS turbs. Either turbo (ie a 2530 or a 2860 dash 5) will outperform an unopened RB26.

I use DS2500's and they work fine from cold. They are low dust and have a good friction coefficient. The only real downside is that the distributors know they are good & charge accordingly. Think $300 for a set of front pads for you R32 GT-R. So they will make a perfectly good selection for a daily although you need to understand if you don't do any track work you are better off with a road style compound.

Looks like Max Mosely is in a whole heap of trouble. Couldn't have happened to a nicer bloke. Still think his father made a more authentic fascist, however.

Took it to Bunbury Transmission & Drivetrain Specialists. They declined to work on the car because of my attitude.

They are part of the structure but only part of it. All structures twist. How much they twist is dependent on their torsional rigidity & ofcourse the load iimposed on them. The torsional rigidity of cars varies. 5 door cars (ie hatchbacks) are amongst the worst in this respect because of the large openings (from the doors/match) in the MONOCOQUE structure ie the shell of the car that gives it its strength along with the two chassis rails. R32's are not particularly rigid if that is your question. And yes even Daihatsu Charades torque steer.

Fkn winnah!! Thanks mate, that is perfect. I need some new rims & am trying to decide between LMGT4's, CE28's & Re30's. If I can find an R32 on the other two types I am half way there. Either that or I will have to try & paste the rims onto that photo. Again, thanks.

You are both wrong. So that is the argument settled. The chassis rail isn't a true chassis rail in the sense of a seperate chassis body arrangement (think truck, old school four wheel drives). It is however a not insubstantial part of the structure of the car and therefore should be fixed. The door flexing thing is actually the whole car twisting when it is jacked up. All cars do this to varying degrees. Typically the newer the design of the car the higher the torsional rigidity of the thing.

As the title says I am looking for a pair of lower control arms for the front of an R32 Gt-R - as made by Nismo. They should look something like this.

From Powerplay: Thanks for your enquiry. The Nismo Link Set prices is as follows: Front Circuit Link Set RHS 54501-RS585-R $480 IN STOCK Front Circuit Link Set LHS 54502-RS585-R $480 IN STOCK From me: Ow. Maybe if I named dropped?

The magazine in question is still on sale....

Because he had piss poor traction. It is that simple. On the up side the suspension didn't fall off the Red Bull for a change. Oh and if the Beeb is taking the GP's & giving up the champions league what does that mean for the SBS broadcasts?

Not sure if this is the right spot to post, but anyway. I am looking for some new rims for my R32 GT-R. The CE28's fit the bill, but I cannot find a photo of a white 32 R with those rims. NEarest I can find is below. Can anyone weave some photoshop magic & change its colour for me so I can get an idea as to whether the rims look any good or not? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help...

Any chance of a pic of the rods?

I was just trying to indicate that the more efficient the island you are on for the compressor the less heat the compression of the inlet air will generate thereby easing the load on your intercooler and lessening the temps into the engine. Sorry if that is obvious or known but I can never work out at what level to pitch answers at on the forums. You have to be a bit carefull with the exhaust flows. If you look at the graphs for the turbines what counts is the pressure differential (as you say) - given the maximum efficiencies of the turbines are only about 70% the more more consistant the gas flow the better the outcome would be my best guess. I would expect a higher PR would result in a lower efficiency hence lower compressor performance. So a more consistant flow ie 3 pulse events, not 1 would give a better outcome. But that is only supposition.

Who's gallon? The Seppos have a different (lesser) amount in their gallons than the empire does. 1 US gallon equals 3.785 litres. 1 Imperial gallon equals 4.546 litres.

I have a pair of 28/60 707150-5's on an RB26 running 435rwhp. There is no one at home at anything below 4000rpm but it is making its 15# boost by 4500rpm. 9# at 3900rpm. With your lower compression & smaller capacity yours will obviously be laggier. My cams are 260 degrees (Both) On the up side the compressor on the dash 5 is very efficient which should help temps. To be honest with your set up I would be looking to use something other than common or garden 98 octane. Otherwise it will just be laggy & therefore slow. By the way (sorry if this is already obvious) 10lb/min airflow from the compressor equates to approx 10hp at the flywheel. This is usefull as you can plot how the motor & compressor work together by plotting the airflow on the compressor map.

Well said.

Maybe they will one day learn (the fully sik brigade, that is) that the quick people are the ones who tend not to say much, nor explain much but who just go out on the circuit & hose everyone. On the upside it may demonstrate to a few people that talking a good lap & driving one are two different things. On the downside it will wear my teeth down because I grind them whenever I hear the words grip driving or time attack or hearing people saying stupid shit like "If you fit such and such you will improve by 2 seconds a lap" or whatever. Phaark me finding 2/10ths is a bloody good day. Anyway I hope this thing is a great success & flushes out some good cars from some good workshops. Not the bling graphics/leather interior chrommies stuff but the proper track tuned goodness that is usually hiding beneath a dust cover in a corner somewhere.

Yeah that is for the kit of three parts. Upper link bracket, transverse lower link & caster rod. Price is also PER SIDE.

Well it is/was already popular. Just that the fuly sik brigade was largely ignorant of its existance. Thanks to a few magazines hype-mongering those happy days have now passed. This is from near on three years ago....

Um Not so much. Something in the gearbox/ATTESSA system has gone blah - probably a bearing, so I have it booked in to get it checked after Easter. Thought it best to let it feel some wrath (ok, neglect) in the interim.

Hmm, maybe Nismo do something for the lower transverse arm: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...ylinebnr32.html http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...ylinebnr32.html