djr81

Green stuff claim 0.55 for some of them which is about right. Not sure what you have of the choices, however. http://www.ebcbrakes.com/greenstuffinfo.html Rotors. Hmm. I would recommend you either go expensive eg a Project Mu 2 piece rotor or a DBA 5000 series or go cheap, say an RDA rotor from the group buy.

Ok, a few things. 1. DS2500's are not hard on rotors. IMHO it is a little bit the other way around with relatively high wear rates on the pads. 2. How much are the HC pads? 3. If you are a track newb then DS2500 is more than enough pad. 4. Don't buy 4000 series DBA rotors - there is a whole thread on how shite they are somewhere. 5. Rear pads can be anything. Just get something that works from cold & matches the friction coefficients of the front pads. Not having used the HC, but from the specs there doesn't appear to be a huge amount of difference between them & the 2500's. The friction coefficients are the same but the HC appear to have a braoder working range. The 2500s are streetable, but I cannot comment on the HC's as I just don't know. The flat friction coefficient of the 2500's is one of their best attirbutes - particularly if you are new to track silliness. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/hc-plus.html http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_compounds.shtml

It is not like Nissan are alone in providing bad service. It is common amongst the majority of brands & dealerships.

Well this was the colour of my brake fluid the last time I changed it. So it shouldn't be too hard to tell the difference.

It usually means the battery is on its way out and within a few weeks will be dead. Not holding charge is usually terminal. (A little battery humour there for everyone).

Simple. No they won't fit.

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

ACL forgie for an RB26. 354grams. http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB2...rgedPistons.htm

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

I will be heading to the sprint event on the foreshore on Saturday. If anyone wants say hello I can wear a rose on my lapel or something. I will be the grumpy looking bloke not entered in the event because my car is broken. Again.

Just be careful to try & confirm whether the rods include big end bolts or not. Those Argo rods appear fairly heavy. Carillo Pro-H 507g Pro -SA 488 Pro - A 474grams Note the first two are H pattern the last I section. They are (I understand) listed from heaviest duty to lightest duty. I am not sure if they include for rod bolts or not.

front: LH upper balljoint has play. It is not a ball joint. You need a replacement bush kit try Noltec, Nolathane & Whiteline. RH tie rod ends has play - suggestion to replace both sides Rack mounts worn - require replacement Rack knocking, LH boot broken - requires replacement These three are all one. Get it fixed as one. rear: lower shock mount bushes fatigued/splitting - requires replacement Shouldn't be hard. Find someone with either a good shock or a bush. There are Tein distributors in Australia. Check in with them. sway bar bushes fatigued - recommend replacing d+link bushes Again, not hard. Just about any half decent auto parts palce can sell them to you.

Yeah I assume so. Also if anyone has random conrod weights maybe they could get chucked in here too.

Don't use semi slicks on the road. Why? Because they are, in no particular order: Noisy. Stiff in the sidewalls which gives you a harsh ride. Expensive. Short lived. Pick up every stone etc on the road & fire it into your paint. And, um oh yeah A WASTE OF MONEY A semi slick needs temperature to generate its grip properly. Other than driving like a complete fkwit on the road you will not generate these temperatures. So you will never get the gain out of the tyre you wanted. Just go and buy some good road tyres.

Just be a bit careful. Dry ice is carbon dioxide. So don't do this stuff in your shed & make sure you have good ventilation. There, my good deed done for the day.

The 15 degrees is your base timing. They do it in such a way as the ignition advance at idle is your base timing. Which in turn (At idle) will be the same as your ignition timing. They can be the same number. If it is 5 degrees retarded the car will drive like, well like it is retarded. When the motor is running you can commonly see thirty to forty degrees ignition timing. Advice, not advise.....

The photos aren't of a Gt-R LCA. They were just a random sample to show people generally what they are like. From the Nismo site the GT-R ones look to be cast or atleast not folded as you have said. Sorry for any confusion. Car is 4WD.

You are wasting your breathe trying to get a dealer to service your car in any other way than the way THEY want it done. Basically if it involves you asking them for something it will be too hard.

Unfortunately from what I understand only the R32 GT-R ones fit the R32 Gt-R's. Otherwise I would buy them.

Base Timing & Ignition Timing. Put simply the ECU adds and subtracts ignition timing from the engine dependent on such things as airflow, throttle position, water temperature, air temperature etc etc etc. It takes your base timing (whatever you have set it to) & then via its function works out the ignition timing. Usually an RB26 has a base timing of 20 degrees. Ignition timing varies widely however. You alter the base timing by moving the crank angle sensor. The ECU alters the ignition timing. Cam Timing Cams are phased to align to the crank. So an inlet cam may open say 10 degrees before the crank reaches top dead centre. You can alter the cam timing (with the right parts and or if it is a late model RB via Nissan electrical/oily bits) so the cam may, for example, open at 15 degree BTDC. In other words change the cam timing.

Dunno. ACL is what used to be the manufacturing arm of Repco before the companies were split up. They are, technically the rightful inheritors of the Repco moniker as it relates to Formula 1 motors etc, not the local Repco outlet selling Chinese shit. Anyway here are the quoted numbers for Ross Pistons: ENGINE CODE RB26DETT BORE 3.406 BORE(mm) 86.5 STRK 2.900 CH 1.191 CR 8.5 APPLICATION TURBO NITROUS ROD LGTH 4.783 HEAD CC 70.0 DOME VOL 19 GRAM WT 355 PART# 99876

In other news J M Belestre passed away. Belestre had Max Mosleys job before max came along. You lot don't remember but Belestre and Senna went to war in the late eighties. The thing is Max Moseley taking on the job was welcomed at the time because he (in contrast to Belestre) seemed quite sane. Makes Jean Marie efforts with a dodgy roller skating trannie at the French GP one year look like the work of a complete amateur.

F50's are 2 x 44 & 2x40. F40's are 2x44 & 2x38 same as the povvo pack version Nissan fitted standard.

i may have missed something but in doing some homework re piston selection I am struggling to find a source for piston weights. So I thought I would start here. Mahle RB26 forged are 320 grams each. Part # NIS191405D16 RB25 forged are 343 grams each. Part # NIS232385I12 RB30 forged are 312 grams each NIS264405I05 Anyone with stock weights?

Me too. Or some 2860 707160-7 ie the dash 7 version.