djr81

Point being is whilst you may be able to get a turbo timer you cannot get a brake rotor timer, a calliper timer, a gearbox timer, a transfer case timer, a diff timer..... With regard to warming the engine the procedure should be this: 1. Get in car. 2. Start car. 3. Drive off gently. Anything else is a waste of petrol, will wear your engine out quicker & most importantly will annoy the crap out of your neighbours or the bloke lined up to take your parking bay.

A good aftermarket rim (17*9) is in the ballpark of 7 to 8 kg. With the tyre fitted you get a total of approx 20kg (255 width x 40). Now a factory rim will be a bit heavier (for strength as much as anything) than an equivalent forgie so I would suggest that your R33 rim would be in the 7 to 8kg ballpark. Each.

Sounds like you need to do two things to further your understanding. 1: Buy a book on car handling and or driving. There is a thread somewhere on that & if you go through the titles listed & then check what they look like on Amazon. You can get most of them through the ptistop bookshop in WA if you want to sort them locally. 2. Once you understand what is happenning in a theoretical sense get an instrutor to drive the thing with you as a passenger. Either that or find some gravel roads. In the interim it may be better to explain a cornering sequence in four parts: 1. Braking. 2. Turn in. 3. Mid corner. 4. Corner exit. Chances are if you are getting oversteer it is on corner exit and is due to either poor traction from the lack of LSD (Single spinner bullshit in other words) or less likely too much throttle. I would doubt the car is oversteering in the first three stages of the corner. Hope that helps.

Yeah, I know. But last time I went down to *insert name of random plastic shop in regional WA so as to not violate forum rules* they weren't very helpfull. Had the last lot of bushes turned up out of nylon by the machine shop next to Adrenaline. May end up doing so again. Transfer case may be ready either next week or the one after that. 4WD controller turned up yesterday, so atleast something is going right.

Err, no. You can have oversteer without breaking traction. Just as you get understeer without breaking traction. Ofcourse you get it when you lose traction aswell - either locking rear brakes or with wheelspin.

Technically you have oversteer if the slip angle of the rear tyres is greater than tht of the front. An explanation which I imagine is about as helpful as a poke in the eye. Some questions for you which will make it easier for others: Does the car have an aftermarket diff or a stocker LSD or otherwise? How does the car behave when you aren't on the throttle? Do you have some photos of the car cornering? Traditionally on corner exit you feed as much throttle into the car as you can without making it oversteer too much. The more gentle you are the better it works. Low powered cars tend to be set up so they oversteer more easilly than higher powered cars. It is quicker that way. Tyres only have so much grip. Look for friction circle on the internet. Whatever grip is being used for turning cannot be used for accelerating. So you need to trade turning performance (ie cornering or generating more oversteer) with traction (ie accelerating down the straight). Broadly that is. Weight transfer tends to make a bit of a mockery of the assumptions....

Thanks gents for the help. Duncan: Used nylon on the last set of bushes I had machined up. May do so again as it works a treat. Wayne: WA you say. Wow. Gary: Drawings and photos attached. Note that the bearings listed were removed from the arms, hence the need for bushes (I didn't want to use bearings). I was thinking that a washer behind the centre sections may help the bush live a longer life. From trying to get poly machined (bored actually) before usually it comes back a bit of a mess. Not confident that it can be done & retain proper dimensional control. Anyway, hopefully it wont come to that. Cusco_arms.PDF Bushes_for_cusco_arms.PDF

BB Not so much P1 as PFO. Better than DNQ, or DNS which is my usual effort of late.

MS may not have come accross as arrogant (to your eyes, anyway) because he wouldn't even let himself get to the point of believing he was capable of doing anything wrong. Which is the worst kind of arrogance. How can you respect Alonso as a driver when he got hosed by a rookie and then spent the whole year either bleating about it or going behind his teams back to nobble them. I respected Alonso until he started pulling those bullshit stunts at McLaren. From watching his car in the sphincter of the universe in qualifying I reckon that much of its performance was down to the driver. It was an ugly, bottoming out pig of a thing. Everything sounds scripted and rehearsed because it is. PR is so overwhelming in F1 these days the drivers can only speak in cliches. Added to their complete lack of a life out of motor racing and you get dull people. Brilliant, but dull. I mean Kimi gets pissed & falls over & the whole world carries on like he is some sort of cult hero because of it. Phark they want to try outside the Burli on a Sunday morning after closing time. Multiple champions/cult heros right there lying face down on the pavement.....must be, they got pissed & fell over.

Unlike, I dunno, a twice world champion that started his F1 career in a Minardi?

Whilst I agree with most of that there is no fkn way Sebastian "Girls Blouse Wearer" Bourdais is one of the best 20 drivers in the world.

Maybe the point should be made that LH doesn't just have an autobiography. He has half a dozen unauthorised biographies as well. So it isn't like there aren't a heap of people trying to cash in on his success anyway. For me LH ticks the boxes as an F1 driver - he can drive the thing hard when when it isn't set up well, he qualifies well, he races well, he can pull bullsh!t overtaking manouvres, he is sensible enough to cruise & collect when things aren't all perfect. As for the arrogance thing - I reckon that with a few notable exceptions it is a cheap shot to call an F1 driver arrogant. Only some of them genuinely deserve that title - the amount of scrutiny & exposure these blokes get would be enough to make anyone tell the world to get lost, surely? They don't get to be at the top (True for any sportsman) without an enormous amount of self belief. Sometimes people see that as arrogance.

Has anyone done this? And does anyone have any advice? I want to sort some bushes for some suspension arms I have & as machining poly is not an good option I concluded that pouring them in the arms may be. Another, seemingly random question: What is the melting point for the poly?

If it is just a track day you don't need fire resistat boots. You can get a much cheaper karting shoe/boot that are every bit as good as the proper stuff, just cheaper & not fire proof. Try OMP as a start. I bought a pair for <$100 & they are really good. Something like this; http://www.ompracing.it/detail.html?productcode=IC/763E.

The transfer case has a total of seven clutch plates in it plus the equivalent number of stator plates. When put back together there is supposed to be a small 0.2 mm to 0.5mm clearance when measured as per the manual. When they wear, however, this number can get to over 1mm or worse. This obviously affects the functioning of the 4WD system. You can't tell (other than by seeing how much the car oversteers) how bad it is without pulling the whole gearbox/transfer case apart. The point I was making was start at the outside at the front & work in. So check brakes, wheel bearings, cv joints, diff etc etc. Go through the system & eliminate the parts from being an issue. Then do the gearbox/transfer case. This is the bit that costs.

I had some issues with my ATTESSA system. Turns out the front diff was stuffed. As were the propshaft uni joints. And the clutch pack. And a heap of bearings. Cost: $3k+ to fix it properly. Availability of parts: Ex Japan at two weeks (average) except you need two goes because the ATTESSA clutch pack needs a final shim which Nissan Australia don't stock. First thing to do is to disengage the AWD system & see if this changes the problem. but the bottom line is you need to take it to a mechanic & get it up on a hoist. Check the front diff for oil condition & backlash. Check the front drive shafts & particularly the CV joints. Also the wheel bearings etc. Check the propshaft. For my 10 cents worth if the above shows nothing then it sounds like an issue in the transfer case. Which is a pain in the arse to find & fix. Take it to a good/informed/intelligent mechanic & don't expect a cheap bill.

Would have liked to have seen Rosberg in the McLaren. I rate him. But there hasn't been much interesting racing this year. Nor much technical interest. Maybe when they get to Europe properly. Not that the sphincter of the universe isn't in Europe (well bits of it). You know what I mean.

Yeah, go put your house on Ferrari winning. Probably a 1 -2 with Lewis making up the podium. Beyond that BMW & Renault & Toyota. yawn. Is it just me or has this season been rubbish so far?

Wonder if this GP will reach the exalted heights of boring like the last one.

Tander won at a canter. You will doubtless get to see that happen this weekend aswell.

Well it was a malapropism, not a mis spelling. Sorry if I upset anyone, but you did ask for it to be corrected.

Err, denomination, not denominator.

There is a thread on oil about, oh 1000 pages long. In that thread you will find endless ill informed opinions about what is the "best" oil for your car. Key thing to remember this is: When built Nissan recommended an SG grade oil. The worst fully synthetic oil you can buy is now SL grade. In other words 5 standards along. I have used Castrol, Shell & Mobil. All of which are perfectly good oils & all of which are infact vastly better than the stuff Nissan tipped into it when it was built. Other people will tell you to use Redline, Royal Purple, or boundless other types of oils. My advice is to find one in the right viscosity range, ie 7.5W30 or wider with the low end being not very important, ie 10Wsomething is fine & the high end number dependent on what you use the car for & whether it has a cooler or not. Then look to check its grade - SM being the most recent, SL being the one before it. Then check the price & buy whichever of these is on special. Mobil 1 is presently on special at Repco as it happens. You need a Z145A oil filter or equivalent. When you change it get some rags to wipe the spill off the front diff, don't over tighten either the sump pump or the filter itself & tip all 5 litres into the motor.

Well this may appear to be a random question, but is perhaps relevant: What is the mechanical ratio for the suspension, ie how many millimetres or wheel articulation equals how many millimetres of spring travel? It is easy to test get a fat bastard (or dog) to sit on the diff. Measure the change in ride height & the change in spring height. Divide one by the other. If you get alot of wheel movement for a small amount of spring travel the car can be a bastard of a thing to set up.

Reason I asked is my present exhaust has a 95dBA jasma plaque on it & it is only just audible over the tyre rumble. My previous 92dBA exhaust couldn't be heard at all. The Trust wedsite had JASMA & 94 written against this exhaust - but it may just have been a reference to how many miles away they could hear the sonic boom. Who knows. Maybe they mean with the bunger stuck up it. THis is a different 80mm type. https://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/TRUST-PETi-Pow...2-R33-R34-22075[/url]