djr81

I do some fairly basic data logging for my car at the track. I use some maths function which I have written in Excel to help analyse the data. I guess my question is can anyone offer some more ideas as to how to draw more information out of the otherwise impenetrable squiggles on the screen? I have done the usual things: Rpm versus speed (at 100% TPS) to determine where the engine spends it working life. % of time versus negative gees to show how crap my braking is. Terminal velocity for various straights etc. Done the overlay thing to see where I am dumping time on the slower laps. (see .pdf file) Graphed the X-Y function to check the effectiveness of corner entry & exit. Used the logger to determine which of the corner entry options is quickest. Also spent time looking at squiggles to determine if there is too much understeer in the setup or too much wheelspin. But I can't help but feel most of the "understanding" is only there because I was driving the car & intuitively knew what was going on anyway. So can anyone help point me in a direction to further my understanding? lap_comparison.PDF

Yeah, I love watching the safety car going round and round and round. Almost as much as I love the fact that that Big Brother shite with fkwit & shouty bitch wastes two hours of perfectly good airtime that could be used to broadcast something interesting - like I dunno a motor race.

R32: Looks great until people try to add more "styling" to them. Then it just looks like a dogs breakfast. R33: Thinking of R33's helps me get to sleep at night. Yawn. R34: Nothing wrong that another 200mm in the wheelbase wouldn't fix.

Yeah kgf = kilograms of force. 1 kgf = 10Newtons. It is the plate pre-load. I set my Nismo diff to the middle setting & there are more clunks than a clunk convention - although clunkage is dependent on the clutch plate size, number and to a lesser degree the diff ramp angle.

There are three lines to the canister. The most important of which comes from the fuel tank. Do not just blank this off or worse, leave the open end near your nice, hot turbo. The other two lines connect into the engine intake. The canister can be relocated to the RHD drivers side after you move the battery to the boot. Happilly the two connections to the engine intake are plumbed across the front of the motor. So you can use one of them to reconnect the fuel tank line to the relocated cannister. The two lines from the engine intake are then nice & close to the cannister & are easy to hook up. That is what I did anyway.

The fundamental problem is that what works well on the track is usually far too harsh for the road & what is nice to drive on the road is inadequate for the tracks. Having said that check the Nismo GT Pro LSD TT range (or whatever the most recent stuff is called) as they are the nearest I have found to a reasonable compromise.

I suppose it should be said that in the 20 years since the GT-R has been around there have been a great many advances in tyre technology. The limitation of group A in this regard drove the design of the car. As long as your modded GTS-T can develop good horsepower & get some semblance of traction you will be in good shape. Certainly your bank account will be better off than if you had gone for a GTR aka a traktor.

Well the best advice you will get is to stop driving like an idiot on the road and take your car to a track. Apparently when a car gets impounded it doesn't really matter what type of diff it has. Typically girlfriends don't much like having to walk everywhere either.

Personally I don't believe the difference is as marked as some people think. A GT-R needs alot of work to start returning good, competitive lap times these days. Anyway for mildly modded example I would put the difference at about one to one and a half seconds over a 60 second lap. Which is half a lifetime in motorsport terms.

Yeah, that is the one. I felt a bit dodgy the fourth time I filled the damn thing out.

Cheers for that. The motor I have is a bit rediculous. It has bolt ons to run it up over 500rwhp but stock internals, so has been turned down to allow it try & live a troubled life. I got crunched for time for getting the tune done which meant no fiddling of the Tomei cam gears. The joy of living in the bush is RB gurus are 180km away in Perth. Anyway I would be curious to see what people are generating in terms of rwhp through 4000rpm.

My RB feels to be more than somewhat lacking around 4000rpm. See attached chart. It has the following Garrett 28-60's 707160-5 turbos. HKS dumps. Tomei Poncams. Unadjusted cam gears. Power FC with Z32 AFM's. Stock internals with good compression. Some other random parts which probably aren't very important Basically my question is this: How can I get some more torque from 4000rpm to about 5000rpm?

First peace of advice: Sell the car & get a good example. Sorry if that sounds harsh but it will almost certainly cost you more to bring it up to spec than turning it over & finding a better one. But anyway: 1: Check the error codes (if any) on the ATTESSA unit. The light is under the ATTESSA unit & can be seen easilly if you park the car in the shed. A Tomei HICAS unit under the engine? Um, eh? 2: If the diff is leaking then get the seals fixed. Also check the backlash & the "tightness" of the LSD function whilst you are about it. 3: That sort of compression is symptomatic of a tired motor. So yes, start saving. 4: Is it normal? Yes. Get the AFR's checked on a dyno as you may well just be wasting fuel & money with an over rich mixture.

Well the key indicators would be rwhp at say 3500rpm, 4000 & 4500rpm. Lets be honest if your motor is producing good torque by then..... Snowies numbers appear to be: 3500 rpm: 125kW (100km/h) 4000rpm: 180kW (114km/h) 4500rpm: 255kW (128km/h) On the assumption that 114km/h in 4th equals 4000rpm.

Most Jap rims have the offset stamped on the inside of them. Remove the rim & check. Personally I would reckon on them being a bit less than a +18.

So whats with the disclaimer that some import companies make you sign stating it is for private use etc & you will love & indeed cherish it forevermore?

Sorry my bad. I assumed you were referring to the ATTESSA pump that plugs intot he back of the gearbox/transfer case. The internal oil pump inside the gearbox should be kept.

You are missing the point. 1: Nissan aren't a charity organisation. They exist to make a profit. That is similarly true of the dealers. So they will price the car to make the most amount of money for the business. 2: Compared to the horrific tarrifs & quotas that existed in the 70's & 80's there is almost nothing left of the protection Australian car manufacturers used to have in Australia. 10% tarriffs (excluding countries with which we have FTA's such as Thailand where you HIlux comes from) is hardly punitive. Least of all with the Australian dollar at its present level.

Yeah people get trapped and stooged to a degree. Trapped because fuel is added to the engine in volume not by weight. So a less dense fuel can will give you a higher AFR. Add oxygen in the fuel & you can get yourself in trouble. Wonderful thing if tuned properly, however. Stooged because you buy fuel by the litre not the kg. So your less fuel efficient E10 (measured in km/litre) costs more than it should.

Um well your initial assumption was both setups made the same power, so I am lost. If you are asking is it possible to have (slightly) more power and better response/midrange when comparing one set up to another then yes. But again it depends a great deal on the engine, the turbo and the tune. At the end of the day flow rate equals power - you get roughly 10 hp for every 1 lb/min of airflow. Boost is just a means of measuring how inefficient the air flow is.

E10 is typically 3% less dense than 91 Octane ULP but has a higher octane rating. It is a similar situation for V-Power (98) and the 5% ethanol blended V-Power racing (100 octane).

www.turbobygarrett.com will help with the noobism. Beyond that 2x350=700 so yes they are equal. I think the question you are trying to ask is "for an equivalent output will the twin turbo arrangement be more responsive in the mid range than the single?" Which is actually a very difficult question to answer because it is so dependent on the turbos themselves. The conventional wisdom is, however, that the answer is yes.

I got the bling one from Mountainrunner.

Meaning it is not just running for longer (ie however many minutes sat there doing fk all), it is running for longer at a non optimal (lower) temperature. If you drive it gently it warms up more quickly than when sat there idling. Ever wonder why taxi engines go forever - they don't get cold.... Nothing wrong with an idling engine, just a cold one. That is the important difference. Oh and if my neighbour had a car with a loud exhaust and insisted on idling it for 5 minutes every morning I would get bloody annoyed.