djr81

Yes it is a the base of the lever. You need to remove the leather cover (press stud under the lever, start there) and check it is triggered when the handbrake goes off. The hand brake light also functions as the check brake light on most cars, hence the fluid level references.

Well try and buy some DOT 3 fluid. But you may find it a bit hard. Or you could just buy the dot 4 fluid that replaced it.

How loud is it? I can't reconcile the number given out by trust with the lack of muffler size...

For the love of God. DO NOT USE DOT 5 FLUID. It is not compatible with your brake system and being silicon based and gives you a horrible, spongey pedal. For some reason people assume that because it has a higher number it must be better. It isn't. Infact it is basically a blind alley that is best avoided. Use whatever dot 4 fluid is available from your local auto parts shop or, if you want to do some track work Motul RBF660 which is also a dot 4 fluid. look here: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiplepro...ntentId=7000977

The diff will handle more horsepower than you will have traction. The stock LSD units are not much chop. You don't get to select the diff ratio on the Gt-R, but the GTS-4 had a lower ratio so maybe try that. You probably don't need the cooler, but keep it anyway.

A reasonable period of time? The engineering world has been using it for almost as long as there has been GT-R's. It is nothing new.

Please don't scare and or confuse the people. You are thinking of GTS-T's. Gt-R's came with FMIC's from factory & installing the replacements usually doesn't require anything at all in the way of cutting.

Yeah in a rare moment of clarity I think I understand. Anyway, here is a photo of a completely random 94 model. The cut outs don't look especially factory....

Duncan, I am not sure they had the cut outs in the front bumper. In fact I am pretty sure they didn't.

Well said. Oh and the W stands for winter. Personally I just buy whatever is on special. Mobil 1 is on special at the moment at Repco.

Easy: Run the same size front & rear simply because GT-R's lack front grip & running small front tyres makes the situation worse.

It depends: On how much you pay for them On how much it costs you to install them On what other bits you fit at the same time. Given how cheap the Garrett upgrades are you are probably better off just buying some of them. Oh and the 34 turbos are ceramic....

A few things: 1: No one who is running RE55's should be worried about NVH. It is far, far too late. 2: The best remedy for avoiding shock loading to the drive train is to use a sprung centre clutch. 3: Carbon fibre is usually used for stiffness. For that matter there is only a relatively small variance in Young Modulus of steels relative to their strength. So it is probably wrong to say the cf shaft will give more than the steel equivalent. 4: The one piece shaft only has one extra link in it. If you stock shaft is in good condition there should be little slop in the tailshaft anyway. 5: Vibration from single piece tailshafts are most commonly concerned with their "whirling" velocity which is a geometric propoerty, not one related to strength. The longer & skinnier the shaft, the lower the natural harmonic frequency.

Yes the oil pump drive was changed on the later model R32's & is better. Don't know exactly when, however. I had a thingo that tells you how to read the build plate on a GT-R. Can't find it, however surely this stuff is stickied somewhere. That many people ask it isn't funny.

I have no idea what prompted the other comments in this thread. As I said I have a twin plate, sprung centre HKS clutch and other than it being a bit rattly it is fine. You could give it to your Mum to drive. You will notice the lighter flywheel if that is what you have chosen.

Oh dear. A search would reveal the answers, but for those too lazy: A R32 V-spec has the following bits: Brembo brakes. 17" BBS rims. The V-spec two gets all this and a sticker as well. There are no other differences worth worrying about.

Mequires do some stuff, try here: http://www.meguiars.com.au/productdetail_2...cat=&show=1 Cleans up your rubber & makes it nice & shiney & black whilst you are about it. It is not armourall type of gear, something different.

I do. Yes they are. But they are noisy when cold.

A dash five small? Depends on what you consider to be small, I suppose. One of these things will flow just over 35lb/min of air. So two of them will happilly give you 700hp, or over 525rwhp without any fancy fuel or much other bullshit. My set up has 260 degree cams with these turbos. Turned down to 15# (& I mean turned down) it makes good torque all the way to redline. The upside of the larger cams is less heat through the engine....

Problem being is that you need to sit down & assess where in the rpm range you want your torque. Basically do a log of the % of time spent in various rpm ranges at 100% TPS. Then graph it. Then use that to determine whether or not after market cams are for you. The larger units (relative to stock) struggle at around 4000rpm which coincides to alot of corner apexes around the country. Anyway the track versus dyno thing is just another way of saying your turbo motor sucks going down hill....which they do.

Hey don't get me wrong, I have a completely different Jihad out on Paul Weel after some piss poor performances in an SBR car a while back..... I continually change my mind on the whole oil/water, oil/air thing. On the one hand it is the best solution from a temp point of view. On the other I hate the thought of mixing oil & water. I have an AU Foulcan 's worth of experience with that. On the third hand it isn't cold enough to need any heating in normal operation and it is fine for sprints etc. On the fourth the oil/air unit doesn't do fk all to reduce oil temps once the car is parked up. But then again I guess the oil gets cooled indirectly through the galleries.. Oh crap I have a headache again.

I have the sandwich plate for the oil cooler so I guess that still bolts up ok to the RB20 filter block?

I asked about that system, but I don't want to run a lard arse radiator with unshrouded fans to accomodate it. Plus I have issued a Jihad on PWR after some intercooler bollocks. There appear to be some other options that bleed off some of the radiator flow & use that. No idea where you would manage to install it in a GT-R engine bay, however.

Actually for the life of me I can't figure out why no one has managed to build a decent oil/water cooler. Makes much more sense than the oil/air ones... Speaking of oil/water cooler is there anyone out there who has blanked off the stock one? Oh and my set up is the same as BBGTR's.

Thanks Baron, you say the nicest things. I will make sure I follow up your recommendations with my pedicurist. Mmmm, toe jam. As to MSNismo's question, if you are going an Alcon option & need to replace rotors/brackets etc then larger makes sense.