djr81

The problem is that most books fall into two categories. 1. Too basic. 2. Too mathematical. The one you have is probably the former, but add to the fact that it is horribly out of date also. If you want a recommendation some of Carroll Smiths stuff is ok (But similarly dated). Try either of these: http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-Carroll-Smi...9845&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Win-Essential-...9871&sr=1-4 If you want to risk an aneurysm go with Millikens tome: http://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dyn...d_sim_b_title_4 Remember thought, the key to it is as much about understanding tyre behaviour as understanding chassis behaviour.

Well it was a street race. Other than Adelaide the "racing" component of the weekend of a street race is always terminally dire. Think about it - Canberra, Gold Coast, Albert Park - rubbish the lot of them. For that matter other than the promoters & the pace car sponsors I can't think of anyone who wins from this. The team's bills are huge due to car damage, spectator viewing is rubbish, as is the tellie, set up costs are massive and no one gains from the thousands of tonnes of concrete needed to set up a temporary circuit. Must be the promotors earning extra coin. I can't think why else Cochrane would bother - self glorification aside.

There are two different issues. 1: Heat soak at idle 2: Heat transfer on the move. 1. Heat soak for piping can be an issue at idle. Far less of an issue that that for uncovered pod filters however & not really worth worrying about.. The area the Gt-R has insulated is basically where the hot air exits the radiator. Question - there is a temp read out available on the Power fc for the air inlet. Where is the sensor located? 2: Not an issue because the volume of air running through the inlet pipes is far, far larger than the transference of heat through it.

I thought all the journo's who wanted character in their cars had been killed when their old school 911s speared off the road backwards.

Who cares the soft tyre is just a diversion from the fact the racing is so dire. Just gives people the false hope that someones option tyre will grain & stuff their race. Bin refuelling. Give em soft tyres that only just last the distance. Kill the downforce. Then we may get some racing.

Yes it is true. Some silicon based fluids are incompatable with the seals found in the braking system.

Just understand that the 600 degrees for the brake fluid is in fahrenheit. The 300 degrees for the pads is almost certainly celsius. So the difference is actually only 15.5 degrees (celsius) Never the less the point still stands. No point having million dollar brake fluid with 10 cent pads, or the other way around even.

Point is that unless you are the next Marcus Gronholm invariably when you first start out you will suck. Badly. Everyone is the same & it is not a criticism just an observation. I sucked wang on my first few attempts (still do for that matter) but one of the best ways to learn & sharpen up is to practice. You notice it even on your first go back after Christmas. You just feel rusty. The other half of the equation is to make sure your technique is right. This is where the instructor comes in. People like John Hurney to name but one can sit in the car with you & talk you around the circuit & talk you through your technique. Your mates can't if for no other reason than they aren't allowed out on the track with you. Ofcourse if you have mates like mine they just pour scorn on you anyway.

Then you need to get the maximum seat time you can and some instruction from someone who knows their stuff (ie not your coulda woulda shoulda mates). This can be done through WASCC & also the nolimitsgroup.

Um Skylines are eligible for IPRA - you need to recheck the rules. Also be aware that racing (as opposed to motorsport like sprint events) is much more expensive. Everything from licenses, to entry fees, to wear & tear, damage & consumables will cost you alot more over a season. Plus you need driver suits, proper boots, scrutineering.....

It depends on what you are aiming at: If it is racing (as in door to door etc) then the categories run by WASCC are where you need to look. Stuff like the formula vees/fords if you like open wheelers, street sedans (Falcon/Commodores) or Improved Production (Imports etc). If it is motor sport you are looking at (ie kharnas, hill climbs, sprint events (time attack if you must)) then you can pretty much build whatever car you want & turnout whenever you want. Places to try are: www.speedeventseries.com This is WA's premier hillclimb/sprint series & features just about every type of car you can think of. www.nolimitevents.com This will get you on track at Wanneroo with an instructor & then on you own. Lots of people from here attend. www.motoringsouthwest.org.au Links to the Collie track & the events held there. http://www.dtec.com.au/ The AHG centre. Most people get a level 2 speed cams Licence (Or the alternate bodies equivalent) which gives you enough clearance to do hill climbs/ sprints/ track days/kharnas etc. Most places want Cams stuff, AHG uses the other mob. You then need to enter for a drive day or an event. Costs vary widely for these things. Check the events section of the SAUWA forums for stuff aswell. Antilag have drive days too sometimes. For zeds try these blokes: http://wazregister.com/index.php?title=Main_Page You will find people friendly and helpful at the circuits so just bail them up & ask. There is a hillclimb on at Jacks hill at Wanneroo on the 26th April for the Speed event series followed by Collie on the 4th May followed by Albany on the long weekend followed by the Wanneroo long circuit on the 19th July........ There is plenty of motorsport in WA, plenty.

They may have been angry that you wasted good carbon fibre on a hockey stick. But seriously for anyone going to training - lock your bag in the boot & leave nothing in view in the cabin of your car. That way the toe rags are less likely to smash windows to try & steal stuff.

Actually the lower pressure drop is beneficial in a somewhat unexpected way. If you look at the efficiency of the compressor map you notice the higher the P/R the more heat the turbo will put into the air. So you don't just get a decrease in lag you also get a decrease in the amount of cooling the intercooler needs to do.

That is fine but you don't worry about turbo lag at the maximum airflow of the turbo. Pick a point with a much lower PR and a smaller airflow. You should find that it easilly gets to add tenths of a second to the time. 40lbs a minute is approx 400hp at the engine. But if you are off throttle & at lower rpm your airflow can be much, much lower than this. Which inturn means your lag is much more. Remember there is throttle lag plus turbo lag to think about.

The graphic is always an R32 - irrespective of what the car in the accident is. So maybe someone is trying to tell us something.

Far be it for me to be a dissenting voice, but a bigger cooler has its advantages on a hot day on the track. You suffer appreciably less heat soak with a larger unit. Whether this is worth the extra weight, cost and throttle lag is another story.

Ah cool someone actually remembers Pete (or was it Leo?) Geoghegan and his Super Falcon with the flashing headlights. So does the zed smoke the tyres like the old XY?

Turns out they do now offer one. Sorry for my old info. I couldn't find one last year when I looked. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/gt.html http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...sdpro_price.pdf

Well, yes. They will inject approx 700/440 = 60% more fuel than the stock ones for the same amount of time. You need to tell the ECU to send less fuel. If you know your way around a PFC you can trim it but to be honest unless you are just going for a short trip to the workshop it is probably best not to.

Better than the current model, apparently.

In order: Yes, yes, no, yes, yes, yes. You can install the PFC & run it on base maps.

Most importantly the part number of the Nismo GT LSD Pro sticker is: 99992 - RN380

OK. What I understand to be the case. Standard rear GT-R diff is a two way. But there can often be little or no pre load on the plates. Copnsequence being it can bag up easilly &then become next to impossible to reign in. The Nismo 1.5 way LSD Pro is a tight, clunky diff. Mine is. The 0.5 component appears to be a misnomer. The 0.5 way is square. The difference between a TT LSD Pro & an Lsd Pro is the ramp angle. Less aggressive on the TT. But you cannot get a TT for a GT-R. I realise that may not be too helpfull for your car, but it may enlighten someone.

$8.60 Roy, $8.60. For those over east who don't know the Speed dome is second gear kharna sized stuff.

Um, make of this what you will. There is a chance everyone is right.