djr81

Well yeah if you could. The car is in Bunbury & if it needs fettling it is a case of gearbox out & send it to Perth. At this stage I am hoping against all rational thought that it is a tailshaft problem. But in any case I don't fancy a drive to Perth with the thing going blah crunch crunch wokka wokka thump.

Phaaark, maybe I am getting old. OK I am getting old. I remember a company called Ruf doing the same to a Porsche in the late eighties. You know, before the interweb.

By the sounds of it one of the bearings in my gearbox has gone blahhh. Apologies for using such a technical term, but there it is. Car is a 94 GT-R. Can anyone recommend a workshop? A transmission shop, that is, not a general workshop.

Well it isn't like they are cheap anywhere else. For my local round (Not that I pay for entry - WASCC membership ) Sunday General admission : $80 at the gate. Paddock pass: $40 at the gate. A grandstand seat is an eye watering $158. Cheaper if you buy them in advance ($18 cheaper but you have to pay postage) but not really very good value. Least of all when you factor in the $10 Hamburgers & $5 buckets of chips. Still they get many, many more people at Wanneroo than in Sydney. So it is only right they are going to stop turning up to WA. Nice one Cochrane you fkwit.

Quick point. Total weekend crowd for Eastern Creek: 23,511. Fkn Corey Worthington got more people than that to his last barbeque. The V8's should just not bother going to Sydney anymore. Take their circus to where more than close friends & relatives turn up to watch.

Well on a bumpy circuit it will kick in - mine does at my local circuit quite alot. Yes it is a bit slow acting & yes it is a bit heavy but I'd rather that than a flat spotted tyre.

What you want is the torque output of the engine multiplied by the transmission ratio in the higher gear to equal that for the lower gear you are about to change out of. That is the correct point to change up. Ofcourse road car gear ratios being what they are sometimes that point is beyond the redline. And yes, 7500rpm is as good a number as any, but the RB26 will take occasional bursts to 8000rpm without expensive damage. Just don't do it all the time. The other thing to note is the tachos aren't very accurate, usually reading a little conservative, ie high. Oh and is you want to try the 11,000rpm thing make sure you video it.

Yeah PM sounded like he was talking rubbish simply because it is official policy to encourage it. Then Courtney explained what happened & made Morris look like a complete twat. Good to see DJR score a win. I hope that with the new capital injection & team progress there will be a way out of the financial wilderness for DJ. The papers read badly last week but then again most of what was written was just plain wrong so who knows what to believe. The one thing proven by the weekend was that trying to start a race on dodgy rubber destroys your start. Oh and just looking at the mess that was Steven Richards car - I am not so surprised to hear hey want to chuck it away & start again. Maybe Jim's young bloke needs a new car - it isn't just Lowndes getting hosed by his younger, less well credentialed team mate...

The short answer to this is : don't waste your time. A properly ducted intercooler will take advantage of the high pressure built up at the front of the car when travelling at any reasonable speed. This pressure build up will be more than any fan is capable of providing. Hence installing such a fan is a waste of time. But: If your car is a GT-R it already has a fan installed to push air through the radiator. You can hear it click on when the car is sat idling on a hot day. It is far, far easier to plumb in some water misting to spray the intercooler when the inlet temps go above a certain threshold. Why don't you look into that?

Does no one think that Nissan aren't going to bust their arses to ensure it gets here atleast a week before April fools day?

Yeah, I do. For me a GT-R should be all about functionality. I sort of have formed the opinion that if you want to ride around on 20" bling wheels the Chrysler dealership is that way..... Probably feel the same with grafting drift influences onto a GT-R. Just doesn't fit right to me, I guess which is why I hate seeing stretched tyres on GT-R's. But each to their own. 02_fine needs to be aware of clearance, tyre life and cost implications of running the most amount of wheel (that is almost) possible. For me an 18*9+22 fits well & looks good. Maybe add a half an inch width if you must, but no more. Anything beyond that is just questionable aesthetics to the detriment of handling & a bunch of other considerations. Oh and this is what they look like all crossed up. Sorry for the blurriness, but there isn't much room left as you can see.

Yes they do. But look at the amounts of -ve camber they run to enable the things to squeeze under the guards. Those kind of numbers degrade the handling of the car. I don't know of anyone recommending running more than 1 degree -ve camber at the back. Over 250mm 1 degree camber is 4.5mm. 2 degrees gives the outside of the tyre a good 10mm height difference to the inside. So yes they can be made to fit, but at what price? Here is another photo. The light/dark emphasises the overhang but the fitment is good. 17*9+22 is ample IMHO. 18's look tough on an R32. Things to note: 1. I would run less -ve camber on the rear, but the tyres will scrape when the car is loaded up. 2. Anymore front +ve castor has the tyre scraping the front of the guard liner behind the oil cooler. Wider tyres/larger rolling diameter tyres are worse in this respect. 3. You are looking at more than -2 degrees of front end -ve camber. Which makes the front look a little skinny. Not a setting recommended for road use, however.

Read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...ng-t204196.html

A 17*9+22 will, when the car is lowered and is running a sensible amount of -ve camber foul on the outer guard at the rear. At minimum if you want it 345 or lower at the back you need the guard rolled. A 10" rim with a +18 will be 17mm further out & will not fit. Nothing is simple with regard to rolling & flaring guards on a GT-R. At minimum you stuff the paintwork. As for tyre size a 255 fits nicely on a 9" rim. 9" equals 229mm so a nominal 255 site nicely. It is not a drift hack so a stretched tyre on a GT-R just looks dumb. GT-R's look tough without resorting to stupid rims. Here is a white one on 17*9+22's. Mine, infact. http://www.driveline.net.au/gallery/2008/69/J6H7425.jpg

They won't fit.

For an R32 GT-R the best size rim (IMHO) is either a 17*9+22 or an 18" version of the same. tyres are then either a 255/40/17 or a 245/40/17. Don't get a 19" rim for an R32.

To be honest the chances of you finding a sponsor to write you a cheque to go drifting are small or worse. However, that does not exclude getting help for your car. I would recommend the following: Sit down & determine what the costs are for you to go drifting things such as tyres, servicing, mechanical upgrades, trailer hire, fuel/oil. That sort of thing. That will give you an indication of the types of companies you can approach for contra deals or reduced cost parts/services etc. So to use a previous example you may not get someone giving you cash, but you are a better chance of getting either parts for nothing or at a substantially reduced price. So the approach may be I'll run your gear (+ signage for a year) if you can knock off $X off the price of this kit. If you do land someone don't just take their money & run. Include them in the events if they want to go. Help them invest some emotion in your success or activities. Send them a glossy photo of your car to stick up in their workshop. (Then send one of your stooge mates around to make comment on it ) Also tap into people you know. Much better than cold calling businesses. At the end of the day if you can save $100 on say 10 litres of oil it is the same as getting a cheque for $100. Difference is it costs your sponsor less & therefore the value he is getting is greater. It is hard work. For most people it is easier to turn up to your day job & do a few more hours overtime.

Well said.

If you are glazing rear pads because of insufficient heat then the answer is simple. You are probably running the wrong pad. For a rear you need something that works from cold. So for example a DS2500 as opposed to a DS3000 which needs some temperature. Some pads will glaze when used on a light duty for any length of time. Take them out & bash them with the bench grinder. A good rear pad will never do this. The second issue is friction coefficient. What pads do you currently have front & rear? The third issue may be air in the system. Make sure the beeld is done properly. You always get a big front/rear temp differential. See the photo. You can check the rotor temps with a thermocouple or with thermo paint.

Rotating them did occur to me. I guess if you rotate them by the same amount as the difference between stock castor & however much castor you run it would be about right. Ofcourse it makes the fabrication that much harder - probably too hard really. Square is easy, parallel is easy, off by a couple of degrees gets hard to replicate.

Random question: You can move the bottom of the upright forward for more castor. But given the arm has stagger built in, can you move the top further back? That assumes you fab up your own arms - which isn't hard looking at the Cusco ones.

Gary, Here is the Cusco fixed arm I just bought. (Thanks Tacker ) Centre distances are 172mm. Unusually they use a common bearing: 6203Z if anyone cares. I was going to knock those out & replace them with some bushes. Also of note is the amount of stagger, ie how far the inside is behind the outside is 23mm. Not sure if adjusting this would help generate more castor without negative side effects.

Um, Fatz are the brackets & bolts (dolts?) available seperately?

Oh dear. A few fundamentals: The compressed fuel/air mixture in your cylinders does not explode. It burns, quickly. There is an important difference. An "explosion" is referred to as detonation. Detonation will, as has been pointed out, rapidly destroy your pistons (and bearings to boot). A properly tuned motor will not detonate, hence it can be ruled out as a cause of failure AS FAR AS THIS QUESTION IS CONCERNED. Which leaves up with what as a cause of failure? Well, amongst other things: Too many rpm. Too much combustion pressure for the rings either because of insufficient tension or simply old age. Too much combustion pressure helping accelerate bearing failure. Insufficient cylinder cooling. Note that the strength of metals (particularly aluminium) falls away markedly as temperature increases. But don't forget that pistons etc wear/distort and generally suffer from mileage and hard work. So whilst your 450hp RB25 may last for a time it wont be forever and probably not for very long.

Yes a litre of brake fluid. Power steering fluid is cheap as chips. NFI how much you need but a litre would be in the ball park. If you steering is binding get it checked properly. Don't go to a track day with a potentially dodgy car it WILL end in tears.