djr81

Castrol is more expensive and, um, well it is more expensive. About $30 for Motul brake fluid is right for 500ml. Sometimes you can get it for less. Get two bottles if you want to fully bleed your brakes. Or just one if like me you are lazy & only do the fronts. Power steer fluid. Why flush it? Just get a half litre/litre bottle. Any old stuff is fine.

Well atleast there is some more sponsorship stickers on it this year round. Hopefully the $'s are there to back it up. They took a bath financially a couple years ago when BMW did the dirty on them. I don't know why Toyota don't start writing some cheques for Frank. He hoses their factory team on far fewer dollars. Give him a few more & "factory" status (Like Renault used to do with Lotus) and he could get more sponsorship still. Car looks good & the lap times are good. Drivers are quality. Everything looks to be in place for another improved year for the boys from Grove. If this keeps up I may yet have to commit to some Nakajima merchandise.

SAU Nickname: Djr81 Car Make and Model: R32 GTR Circuit Name: Various, see below Modifications Engine: Front Mount / Exhaust Power: approx 320kw Suspension: SK Bilsteins, mixed bag of other bits. Tyres: RE55 semi-slicks Brakes: standard discs / calipers Ferodo DS2500s Body weight: Standard Wanneroo long circuit, p14, lap time: 1.06.6440 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....07/2007.BARB.P2 Wanneroo short circuit, p14, lap time: 56.8290 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....02/2008.BARB.Q1 Collie, p7, lap time: 51.4900 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....03/2008.COLI.Q1

If you ask greenline nicely you can get a Cusco strut brace that incorporates a master cylinder stopper. Or just a master cylinder stop if that is all you want.

Nice in here isn't it? I don't think anyone will argue with the notion that the quality of the car & of the importing experience you get is down to the broker and the buyer. Problem is there are more brokers than buyers and you need to pick carefully. I have reservations about some (& I emphasise the word some) of the more high profile brokers. Others with a high profile & a good reputation deserve them both. If you find someone you are happy with then you can get a very, very good result. As for a local car you can see it, touch it, drive it, test it. Even poke it with a stick if that is your fancy. Surely in the overall scheme of things that is a better proposition? Lastly, I am not sure there is any substantial price differential remaining between a freshly imported GT-R & one being sold locally. There are rubbish GT-R's in Japan just as there are rubbish GT-R's locally. Just the same as there are good ones.

Well you're new, so you may be unaware this subject has been covered many, many times. So have a bash at using the search engine. Some things to know: The stuff posted on some sites (eg prestige) is basically leftovers from the auctions. Sort out what you want & then get someone to look for that. Don't just buy something off a spam email. Try the sponsors of this site plus people mentioned in the importing section. Also buying locally is a very, very good option at the present. Stock vs modded. Why stock? There are many good GT-R's about that have been modified well & are excellent value for money. Arguably better value for money than the relatively few stockers remaining. If you want to modify it why not just get something that is already done & is cheaper than a stock + your mods. Model differences. Despite all the keyboard warrior hype other than the oil pump drive there is fk all difference worth worrying about between the different model year GT-R's. A V-Spec is not worth the extra if you are to modify it. It is even a bit of a marginal call for a stocker. V-Spec info. Just do a search. They come in all 5 of the common colours & perhaps a couple of the special ones. The N1 stuff is not standard on any GT-R's other than the early Nismo editions. $$$$$'s Your money is about right. Golden rule: Buy the best one you can find. Area for discussion. Not this one, use the Skylines discussion area. Oh and good luck.

You have two basic choices. Either 245/40/18 or 265/35/18. Given you have 9.5 in rims the latter fit the rim better, but depending on your suspension heights, camber, offset etc the rears can often foul on the guard. A 255 width tyre is actually the right size for a 32, but they aren't as common in 18" sizes. Suggestions of 225 & 275 are just plain wrong.

Yes. It is an easy job. There are only a couple of bolts holding the things in. Just get yourself some jack stands to rest the car on before you start. Oh and measure the bolts so you can answer this question: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Su...on-t207783.html Most important, that bit. Lastly if you are interested in buying a couple arms with the bushes already fitted chuck me a PM.

Why don't you just do what has been suggested, pull the fuse on the 4wd system then go for a drive. This will tell you if it is the problem or not. As a rule you should use the same tyres front and rear on a GT-R. There is no good reason, none at all, for using different sizes. As for Supadan well chances are his ATTESSA clutch is fkd. Like a lot of old GT-R's.

Chris, Thanks mate. Just to let you know the arms are in Melbourne. No idea why DHL routes their freight through there. Wierd. Should still get here tomorrow or Friday. Cheers Richard

Gees if I had a dollar for everytime a GP driver used the expression "for sure" or maximum... Problem is that for the majority of them English is not their first languge & they get tutored in what to say by the PR people. Which means you either get a Kimi (pick one) saying nothing or generic gobshite instructed by the PR people. Oh and since when does "top 11 finish" sound better than 11th?

My point was simply that if someone can understand the concept of torque then they can probably get their head around the fact that it is measured in Newton metres, ie a force times a distance. Inventing a new unit of measurement (ie torques) helps no one and sounds profoundly stupid to boot. If he wants to talk about torque in the general sense he needn't invoke its units of measurement, real or imagined. Language is a tool of understanding, so why not use it as such instead of just making shit up? It leaves those that do understand thinking of him as a twat & those that don't no better off. Anyway as has been said Top Gear isn't really a car show. It is more just a bunch of blokes carrying on like dickheads. Which is to be applauded.

Does that make me a ginger beer or a nerd, Baron? Maybe both. The term you are seeking is the polar moment of inertia. J for short. For a hollow round section Polar moment of inertia = pi/32 multiplied by (outside diameter to the fourth power - inside diameter to the fourth power) Anyway for a small increase in diameter you get a big increase in torque transmission capacity. On the flip side the metal at the centre of the shaft is doing next to fk all. Question to Syslink. Which NATA accredited mob are you getting to do your testing, not Metlabs by chance?

Should they squeak. No. Will WD40 help? Maybe a bit in the short term. Try some proper grease & also do the sway bar bushes as they often carry on too.

Sorry I shouldn't have said series. Not the Biante one anyway. I was thinking the historic outings that you occassionally see the R31's & the like at.

No. There are bundles of misunderstandings about light weight drive train components. Some people reckon they destroy the driveability & low range torque of a motor. Others believe the low rotational inertia produces masses more acceleration. What is true that if the lower drive train inertia isn't factored into the dyno readings it will give a false, high, output number. Also true is that a lightweight driveshaft (much like its flywheel equivalent) will reduce the amount of energy (or horsepower over time if you like) required to accelerate the car. Whether this is important or significant depends on a bundle of factors. I would suspect that a good carbon drive shaft would have a small & perhaps measureable effect.

Rumour has it the car was going to re-appear in the historic touring cars. Anyone?

Well two names who I would like to see in V8's in the not too distant future - both sons of former drivers: Hansford & Miedecke. I was a big fan of Greg & Andrew (Phark, am I showing my age?) so I would very much like to see Rhys & George prosper in the utes & get on into the main game. For those who don't or can't remember the Miedecke Sierra (Engineered by a couple of bloke called Ross & Jimmy Stone) scared the crap out of the import Sierras in 1987 at Bathurst. Besides, how can you not like someone who's major sponsor was Oxocube? As for Greg Hansford his loss was a huge one to the motorsport community. He was a thorough gentleman & achieved great success both racing for Kawasaki & subsequently for Moffat & then Perkins. His wins at Sandown & Bathurst were a testament to his skill. His willingness to put up with those two bosses a tribute to his character. The great sadness was his loss after finally signing a good deal, for Ross Palmer in the super tourers. That Rhys has enough mettle to go motor racing points to him being a solid character.

You must be a HUGE Paul Morris fan.

Why not look for a car that is available locally? You get the huge benefit of being able to see the thing yourself, know that it is log booked (If required), comliant to all of CAMS nonsense (If required) & best of all know what lap times it is capable of at a local circuit. Just about every race car I have ever seen is "for sale" - mostly because the drivers always have an eye on their next prospective purchase...

But wasn't that said last year?

No. Or atleast there shouldn't be. The only reason to record a difference would be if the dyno wasn't being set up or run correctly.

Pull the fuse on the 4WD system & go for a drive. If the problem has gone then it is your tyres. Much of the input for the system is differential wheel speed front to rear. If the system detects it it thinks wheelspin & pushes torque forward. This is almost certainly the cause of the jolting as the locked up system & differential wheel speeds need to somehow get back to normal - hence the car jolts. What is your front torque gauge reading when you drive around normally?

Quick question, does anyone have the bolt size for the outer upper link bolt on the front suspension of an R32 GT-R. I am reverting to a non adjustable arm & will need to replace the two bolts currently in this duty. I expect it to be a metric bolt, Grade 8.8. So M10 or M12 by XXmm long. Thanks to anyone who can help.

No he is saying that it IS the reason. No.