djr81

Yeah it was basically a dead parrot by 1992. Something a lot of people tend to forget/gloss over. EVen watching the '92 season it was a matter of how many laps went by until Longhurst punted Bowe. But by god the 3x20 minute heats format sucked teh wang.

But.....The turbo equivalency changed from 1.4 in the early days to 1.7 later on. Also, technically even the 91 regs weren't true to group A anymore.

Yes. But also try http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro.html

Do it properly. Do it once.

It's a Quaife. It doesn't have "ways" it has gears rather than nasty clutch packs. Gary, what is the situation regarding the transfer of any warranty? Do Quaife still recognise it or not?

It is not necessarilly a money thing. It takes a great deal of time & effort to track down the myriad of parts you need to make a bad car anywhere near good. I mean, price a pair of seats & then add up the money for however many bits of interior plastic you want to replace. Thats easilly $1k there. You can do a similar exercise for tired suspension, paintwork, brakes, drivetrain & yes even the engine. Before too long the car will be costing you more than the really nice example you thought you couldn't afford in the first place. With regard to the engine, just get it checked. There are loads of threads about what to look for. And lastly, don't take too much notice of the (mostly GTS-T owning) doom sayers who will tell you it will cost more to rebuild the motor than the national debt. There are many, many owner who have never rebuilt their RB26's. I'va had four, never lifted the lid on one of them.

Simple advice: Buy the best car you can find/afford. You will be better off in the short, medium & long term.

First stop should be the endless number of brake threads, but anyway. You need to think about what you need first up. How much retardation for how long? Secondly as for brand names it is not just callipers it is rotor availability, pad choice, parts backup & product quality as well. Thirdly make sure you have rim clearance & brake balance. Fourthly do you really need to upgrade the rears as it will be of the order of $4k for not much gain. Fifth, brand names: Endless are good & cheap. AP are very good and not cheap. Brembo (not the poverty pack shit on the Nissans) are now the same company as AP. The make some very good callipers, just expensive. Alcon are good & reasonable value in large sizes. Not worth bothering with (IMHO) are GReddy, Wilwood, Project Mu, Stoptech as they don't fit all the categories in item 2. Lastly using ex production parts (Ex Porsche callipers) can be a cheap way of getting the job done. Best bet is either go for something like an Endless kit or go and see someone like Racebrakes who know their sh!t.

Just to confirm the Barons comments the set of RE55's I got fitted yesterday are SR2 compound, the previous ones being SR. Hoping for an improvement.....

So where in this saga is the "bad luck"? Unfortunate - yes, predictable - well also yes. Anyway good luck getting it sorted.

Um, yeah sorry. I got the other Bayside Blue Gt-R mixed up with yours (So common...). Nengun take their time, I would suggest greenline instead. I just used the Nengun links because they took you straight to the parts. The kit with adaptors is about $350. The pod filters you buy without the kit are simply replacement filters. They are insufficient to do the whole job.

Um, I think you are missing the point. The pods replace the airbox. Completely. You want the kit first time up. Try here: http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-intake-gtr Or, if you decide to go large on the AFM's: http://www.nengun.com/apexi/super-suction-kit-z32-80mm-afm Can I suggest you go back to talk to Danny at Imports101 about your mods. My car was there when your 34 was about (It is a white R32)

Get something with a better lense, eg: http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod409.htm http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod413.htm

Then go buy the correct stuff. Shell sell it, I believe. Oxegenated fuel is a good way to develop more horsepower. In fact it is a brilliant way of doing so. No, it does not induce pre ignition/pinging/knocking or much else. Have a look at the Motec website for some work they did on an Evo. Your fuel injectors need to stay clean as well as your valves & other parts. It is not just about your fuel filter. Having crap in the fuel system that hasn't been dislodged yet is like playing Russian Roulette. It is not about the fuel itself. In any case normal petrol has detergent added to it. The fundamental truth here is that the ethonol blend is less dense that its petrol equivalent. So don't worry so much about the fuel consumption, worry about your AFR's.

Well it would be one of those circumstances where you aren't so much moving it outwards as returning it to where it used to be before the top arm was shortened. In any case the bling LCA's on the previous page are a rather sobering $1000 for the pair. Apparently Moonface Racing do an odd balljoint/LCA extender arrangement which also migrates the front roll centre. But I don't want to go down that road again. Wasted time/effort on it previously.

Go and see Dick Ward at Go Gear. And get a 3", not a 2"

No just fill it up. Fluid. Any old stuff. Whatever is on the shelf really.

Even putting aside the elementary problem that no RB26 ever had cam adjustment it is quite scary that an alleged mechanic either doesn't know or can't tell the difference between a VTEC & variable cam timing (NVCS, VVT etc etc) VTEC actually changes the cam lobe the inlet valve is actuated from so you get (or can get) a change in duration, lift & phasing. NVCS only gives you a change in phasing. In any case the correct answer to your mechanic's question must surely have been "Yo".

It is power steering fluid. Check the level in the reservoir as it is common for people to overfill them & thereby get a leak when it heats up. If it is not an overflowing reservoir it is usually the larger of the rubber hoses.

I did sway bars. (Whiteline) Then springs/dampers/caster/camber. (Whiteline/Bilstein) Then more camber. (Home made stuff) Then more springs. (Eibach/Bilstein) Then more sway bars.(Cusco) And I haven't finished yet. Best advice is to think carefully about where you want to end up & listen to some of the good advice you will get on this forums. But in doing so recognise that what some people like may not suit you and what suits some circumstances may not suit yours. If you can do some research on how everything works & what changes have what effects you will be much better placed to understand peoples advice. I mean I have seen some shops recommend 10 & 8 kg/mm spring rates for the street for an R33.....so you can't take it all on trust.

Gees Baron you are like a walking encyclopedia on obscure Japanese aftermarket components & manufacturers. And they say there is a skills shortage in this country. Thanks again.

Hmm, this went ape shit in my absence. 1. Baron I sent you a packet of clips (or was that chips?) before Christmas, but didn't re-check the address before I posted it. If Druncan can't find any I will have another go (after checking the address). 2. Rain? What the fk is rain? 3. I don't like the adjustable arms because I worry that in a moment of kerb hopping excess the rather insipid clamping bolts (that dictate the length) will give up their unequal struggle. 4. Yes I have run out of adjustment on my Whiteline ones. The outer adjuster is wound all the way in & I even had made an offset pin for the inner arm. 5. Duncan, what do you recommend for the longer, lower arm? 6. 32 & 33 arms are fundamentally different.

Thanks Baron.

Cusco used to do a fixed length upper front suspension arm for the Gt-R (Amongst others) Are they still available as I am after some, preferably in a -10mm length or less at a pinch. For a 32 model. I looked but there does not appear to be anyone listing them presently. And yes I have seen the adjustable ones. Also the Whiteline gear.