djr81

The bit I could never understand is this: How are they not moveable aerodynamic devices? I mean the counterweights Renault put into their mass damper system (which went inside the monocoque) were "moveable aerodynamic devices" according to the FIA. So why are these ugly, dangerous POS allowed? Other than the fact that Ferrari introduced them, obviously.

Yeah. Just get in touch with a few of the employment agencies. Ring them to get a contact & then send them a cv. Oh and its spelt Fremantle.

Does the tool, err, person concerned have a name? Anyway rogers should be nicely cashed up after selling his dealership.

A few things: If you want a smaller battery get yourself a drycell. I have a Deka Powersport 365CCA & it spins the motor up nicely as well as being much smaller than the usual lead acid job. Not cheap, but worth checking out. With regards to Cams I understand it is only log booked cars that HAVE to comply with the catch can sizing. I have not seen a car knocked back at a hill climb or similar for having a weiner catch can. Pat attention to how you will drain the catch can of oil. If it isn't fabbed right you will just spill stuff everywhere & probably burn yourself into the bargain. Pay some attention to how you will vent the oily air coming out of the catch can. Last thing you need is an engine bay full of oil stinking half burnt oil.

According to yesterdays Auto Fiction teams with technical alliances will no longer be grouped for testing purposes... What the hell prompted that? Team Walkinshaw needs to have more than 6 entries? Or have they just given up & resigned themselves to the fact that the series is organised for the sole benefit of HRT. I cannot believe that the likes of Larry Perkins, Dick Johnson or even Garry Rogers would have gone along with that. Sorry guys but you now need to enter 6 cars to have any hope in hell of being competitive. Actually scratch that comment about Rogers - he needs to pay for his engines somehow.

It is extremely unlikely that the FPR is the problem. If you suspect a fuel problem the FIRST thing to do is to replace the fuel filter. Second thing to do is to check the ECU to see if it has been modified or is stock. Third thing to do is pull the pump out & check that the strainer on it is clean. Then take it & get it run up on a dyno. Check the AFR's etc.

There is an easy answer to this. Don't try & tune the car with an FPR. Do it properly.

Yeah I was thinking that, in the absence of serious bling options, the <$300 RDA blandness looks to be a winner. Local mu secret lists them at $710 a pair plus postage, Nengun at about $630 delivered (Not listed, but similar sizes are about that - also I'm in WA so its probably cheaper for those of you living on the wrong side of the country) Angus, out of interest how is the balance with the F50's up front & what master cylinder + front rotor you running? Sorry if I have asked before, but my memory is not what it used to be.

All good info, thanks Baron. As an aside I was less than blown away by the weight savings from the front hatted rotors relative to the DBA/RDA rubbish I used before hand. I was only 3kgs total. But then again the Project Mu stuff had slightly more substantial cooling vanes than the others which only really have pillars. I wouldn't reckon the rears would be as large a difference.

Probably, but to be fair I did try pretty hard to buy your F40's!

R32 Rear. Mu SCR Pro (or someones equivalent ie hatted rotor. I think Biot do them. Not sure about Endless). To suit Brembos. Which I take to be the same as the 33's setup anyway. http://www.nengun.com/project-mu/scr-pro I will be ditching the Sumitomo gheyness for something more substantial. Although for now I have to run them. Here are the front SCR Pro rotors I bought a little while ago. Will give them a proper try mid next month.

Dunno, maybe ask Vern Schuppen.

For me, well I haven't made up my mind as to whether I can be bothered following F1 this year or not. Anyone want to make an offer on 30 years worth of Autocourse annuals?

As stated throughout the thread: You cannot buy rear, hatted rotors from DBA to suit an R32/33 GT-R. Even if you could you may not want to. Even if you did want to why would you pay full price from Repco?

Baron? Help. Please. Nengun couldn't bother their arses to answer my question about hatted rear rotors for 32/33/34s.

A Watts linkage ensures the axles moves in a vertical plane - unlike a Panhard rod. Which is why they are inherently superior.

Well it doesn't work particularly well, but it has been made to work better than what could reasonably be expected. If you look at the different techniques used for supporting the pinion/crown wheel, the barrel gears in the axle to allow -ve camber, the Watts linkages (some of which will live with a side impact from a wall/other competitor) the different ways the axles & the housings themselves are manufactured.... The is a lot of very good engineering that goes into them.

The V8's have a Watts linkage, but it could more correctly be referred to as a "reverse" linkage. Rather than the centre pivot being attached to the back of the diff & the outside ones to the chassis, the V8's locate the centre link on the chassis & the two outside ones to the axle. This then allows them, via a single bolt, to adjust the height at which the centre linkage acts on the chassis. This is what you always hear Crompton etc banging on about with roll centre adjustments. The height of this link is the height of the rear roll centre. As an aside given the supposedly antiquated nature of the set up there is actually a good deal of technology & engineering involved in the rear axle set ups for these cars. But lets not let that get in the way of a good story.

Yeah that the problem with nominating a brand of tyre or a hardness or tyre or whatever. People who want to enter or be competitive probably have to go and spend yet more money on tyres.

So do the cool people in their R31s take the embroided cushions off their parcel shelves before they hit the track? Or just leave them as if they are driving to the lawn bowls club. On a more relevant issue, control tyres as a rule suck almost as much as not having one. Unfortunately they will always benefit one car (say a light weight one) more than another.

Actually the toyo RA1's are quite reasonable on the road. Nothing like as obnoxious as the large tread block designs. Not sure how they hold up on a heavy car for circuit work, however.

It may be worth your while getting a second set of rims - larger ones at 9" width. Reason being that GT-R's are heavy and punish their tyres. So the extra inch or so rubber helps, albeit at a price. 255/40/17 are a good size. In any case check the load rating. As for your second question. Yes they are driveable in the wet. But to be honest they are a noisy, harsh and offensive tyre that I wouldn't recommend running around on every day.

Simple. Such a thing doesn't exist.

I used it as an example because it just won the All Wheel Drive (road car) class in the WA Speed Event Series. My point was that if you have a range of options the chances of any one car fitting them will be better. It was just a list off the top of my head to illustrate the point of letting people pick from a list. It is fairly evident that what people regard as reasonable varies widely. This is what makes things difficult. You don't see Aircon as being a problem. My thing has integrated climate control. So it is a much bigger problem for me. Your Toyota may have a 20V EFI engine conversion & go hard. Someone elses S13 may have an RB25. (there is one over here in WA - engineer approved). There is a fair degree of difference. So what is reasonable to the S13 fans may not be to the Haichi Roku brigade. And that is before people start worrying about the bloody rotisseries....12a, 13b etc etc etc. Doesn't make either you or me right, just makes it hard for the poor bloke writing the rules to please everyone.

Its motorsport. There is no such thing as a reasonable person. Any reasonable person would not spend shedloads on money on such a pointless persuit.