djr81

The problem with all this is people are not addressing the ancilliaries that the motor will require to reach the kinds of power levels they claim. There are three things needed to be focussed on: 1: The limits of the stock Air Flow Meters. 2: The limits of the stock fuel system. 3: The limits of the stock pistons. Now from my experience and from comparing my Poncam RB26 with others of the same level of mods minus the cams - yes the Poncams will allow you more airflow at higher rpms. But this is at 400+rwhp. Much below this figure & certainly anything below 4500rpm you will be worse off. The second item needing addressing is the cost. Simply put, whilst cam shafts are relatively cheap to purchase installing them properly with shim adjustment and then cam gear adjustment on the dyno is an expensive exercise. Given that a pair of new turbos runs to approx $2500 for Garrett goodness I would question the logic of running stock turbos near the edge of their reliability envelope - stock cams or not. Remember it is not boost that kills the turbos it is shaft speed - the more rwhp you make the more shaft speed you have. Whilst this will be a little less with larger cams you still run the risk of destroying a turbo which in turn may well wreck your motor. Now don't get me wrong I like the nature of the RB with the 260 poncams installed. They will make power to 8000rpm & beyond with them. But unless your engine is strong enough & its ancilliaries large & reliable enough to allow it to run this kind of rpm/hp you are largely wasting your money. Other, more beneficial things need to be done first.

It is uncommon for people to change their cam shafts before their turbo chargers - simply because you wont get a gain for your money. Use the stock cams & adjust them using the gears you have bought. Only after you have changed the injectors/fuel pump/air flow meters/turbos/boost control plus a bunch of other bits should you need to look at cams. That point is a way past the 400rwhp mark. As for power outputs on stock turbos with the PFC & gears you should be in the low to mid 300rwhp mark. Don't push the ceramic turbos too hard - no more than 14lb anyway.

Get some stock R32 Gt-R rims. They are cheap, plentiful & the tyres to go with them will also be cheap. Far, far better than any imported Chinese chromie shit you may find in most tyre shops. Failing that a good second hand Japanese rim in 17". 17*9+22 is the best size for a 32. 18's are ok too.

There is some verbage in the new CAMS manual (2008) to the effect that if the event you are in does not require a roll cage then they cannot knock you back for having a non compliant one. Unless, ofcourse, they regard it as being a danger.

Nor am I. Surely someone has some 17" rims & a tape measure?

Skyline = soft.

As the owner of an imaginary GT-R, err that is the imaginary owner of a GT-R. Um, something. GT-R. Anyway as I was saying before I was rudely interrupted the amount of downforce the rear wing generates is negligible. Compared to the kerb weight of the lard arse things the amount the wing weighs is neglidible. So removing it or not removing it is simply down the to aesthetic preferences of the owner. Real or imagined.

Drift Set-up Q, is hicas lock bar essential? Yes.

Because it makes the plumbing simpler & the cooling from the intercoolers is the same for each bank of the motor. Notice the interccolers are mounted sideways....

A CAMS licence can be sorted out for you on the day. But given they are less than $100 just organise yourself a level 2S and then you wont have to worry about it for the rest of the year. Note that a prerequisite for a CAMS licence is affiliation to a club - the Nolimits mob have a club. See here. http://www.nolimitevents.com/e107_plugins/...viewtopic.php?2 Some things to note: I understand you can only get one day licence per year. A day licence is $25 (plus membership) whereas a yearly is all of about $70 more. So just get the yearly.

You are getting a bit mixed up. A few of pointers. The HICAS system starts at the solenoids etc that sit on the chassis rail next to the motor - near the oil filter. This is a heavy lump of sh!t that is actually tricky to remove. Just removing the actual rear steering rack & replacing it with the lock bar is pretty easy. If you only do this you can just loop the oil lines. If you remove the front solenoids etc then you can remove the rear section of the power steering pump. This will help keep the fluid cool. The other thing to do at this stage is to spend a little money on a proper cooler for the fluid. Nissans finned tube sucks badly.

The GT-R calliper for the 33 is 30mm thick. That for the R32 is 32mm thick.

I had always believed the Rays/Volk rims allowed for plenty of room for brake clearance. However looking at a photo (Kindly supplied by Ant) the rim appears to be smaller in internal diameter than, say a Blitz rim (first of the photos) due to the location of the step in the rim being on the inside on the Rays rim (Hope that makes some sort of sense - the Rays is the third photo, an 18" in this case). Anyway, does anyone have a 17" CE28 or RE30 that they can measure the inside diameter of? It should be thereabouts of 350mm.

Not that it was asked, but at full throttle there is no compelling reason for a turbo/supercharged motor to be any less efficient that its naturally aspirated counterpart. What is being discussed is not absolute power output, but specific fuel consumption, ie how much fuel you need to produce 1kW of power. With regard to part throttle a turbo motor will always be less fuel efficient than an atmo motor because its effective compression ratio is much less. As a rule the higher your compression ratio the better fuel economy you get. What I was saying is that if your supercharger consumes say 20hp on full throttle the engine needs produce that 20hp to drive the thing. The power (20hp) would otherwise show up in rwhp. Put another way you waste 20hp worth of petrol just making the motor run. With regard to the turbocharger being driven by exhaust gas it is not a free kick. There are pumping losses from the motor that result from the need to drive the turbine on the turbo. It can be likened to having a very restrictive exhaust. Nonetheless these are less than their equivalent for a belt driven compressor.

There are a couple of things to consider. 1: The prospect (or reality) of SEVS R35 imports will to an extent put some price pressure on Nissan. Which will hopefully stop them from asking the kinds of stupid money they did for the R32's. 2: Once a reasonable number of R35's are built in Japan the premium they are asking on places such as Yahoo will vanish & the pricing will become much more reasonable. Ultimately an '07 R35 will become the latter day equivalent of an '89 R32 - ie something for the keyboard warriors (In all their ignorance) to sneer at.

1. Because the only way you make horsepower is to burn petrol. 2. Because most tuners run motors on AFR's much richer than stoichiometric on WOT to keep the EGT under control.

A turbo simply because it is powered by what would otherwise be waste heat (exhaust gas). A supercharger needs to be powered by the engine making sufficient hp to drive it.

Well for whose benefit would you put springs (or coilovers) in your car that make it grip, handle and ride substantially worse? Not to mention all the other attendent problems that come along with such a dumb set up. Clearly not your own, so all that is left to do is assume you are doing it to impress your mates. The point you are clearly struggling to understand is that an excessively high spring rate (12kg/mm & 10 are too high) reduces the grip available to the car. It does not necessarily mean the thing will be better at drifting either. In fact quite the opposite - it will most probably be worse. Certainly it will be unpredictable when the car gets anywhere near some bumps. The ride quality turning to sh!t is just another downside to having excessively stiff suspension in the car.

A high spring rate does not necessarilly confer good handling on a car. In fact chucking hard springs at a car it is one of the easiest ways to make it an ill handling heap of rubbish. As a rule the higher the spring rate the less forgiving the set up will be for any compromises you have to build into the set up. As all road car based suspensions are necessarilly compromised the chances are you will make it appreciably worse than a stock car. Particularly if your first priority is impressing your mates but making it low/hard. Too many people believe that simply because a car doesn't/can't move about on its suspension it must handle well. They are wrong. Old adage: What is good for ride quality, done correctly, is also good for roadholding.

Please don't take this as a criticism, but that is so wrong as to be laughable. If you need teeth jarringly hard suspension to prove to your mates how tough you are - well that simply shows how ignorant they must be. The point of upgrading the suspension on a car is to make it ride/handle/grip better. Unfortunately to a large extent you can only have two of those three options. With regard to the Silvia shown inthe photo a few things a obvious: 1. The car looks to have insufficient roll stiffness. 2. It looks to be falling over its rear suspension. Which means: 3. You need to address the rear springs & sway bar stiffness first, but only if you are happy with the front spring rate.

Just by the RDA rotors - they are significantly cheaper than the DBA ones & about the same quality (Not very good). There is a group buy on SAU so have a search for that & save yourself some money. As for pads if you are predominantly using the thing on the road stay away from pads like the CC-X. Get something that works from cold. Otherwise you could end up in a nasty accident - ie running into someone because the brakes are still cold & you can't stop.....

For my ten cents worth - you are running mismatched front to rear spring rates. For my Gt-R I have 5kg front 4kg rear with a 22dia front & 24 dia rear sway bars. You are much stiffer on the front & softer on the rear both in spring & in sway bars- hence the car will pick up its inside front tyre. So you need to bring the spring rates closer together & then fatten the rear sway bar. Also (again spring rate dependent) the front bar is pretty fat relative to most offerings although at 7kg/mm it is much more liveable than if the car was (for example) running a 5kg/mm spring. Whether you do this by just adjusting one end of the car or not depends on how high you like your rates.

You won't. Which is why you use a competent importer. Assuming it is going to a local workshop your best bet is to find out when it is due & then drop by the place when it is delivered to the shop. This is what most people do.

What do you do? Or want to do?

Well if that is the best they can do..... No they don't go around with the rim. Merely up & down & backward & forward & left and right. As for the aerodynamic assistance being 'unexpected' - unexpected in the sense that it is the sole reason they are fitted. Which makes it pretty unexpected, albeit in a Pickwickian sense. The down side is a wheel to wheel clash is pretty much the most common contact between cars - making it likely that the things will be ripped off. I'm sure a carbon fibre saucer flying into the stands a warp factor nine wouldn't do anyone any harm whatsoever.