djr81

1) What a timing light is or what that looks like?? A light that when hooked up flashes when the #1 spark plug fires. It look a bit like a pistol, so don't take one into the local Commonwealth Bank branch. 2) When you plug a consult into the stock ECU to check ignition timing does that mean what is set at the CAS is what it will show on the consult screen plugged into the ECU? Or is the only real way to see what ignition timing is sat at the crank by using a timing light? Because looking at the consult it shows 20 degrees BTDC. What is shown by the timing light should match what the ECU thinks it is. You adjust the CAS to make them the same.

Essnetially the same property that gives an I section better bending resistance (buckling resistance) about the crank axis gives it more rotational inertia. Yes it is, but I did say as far as the conrods are concerned. I understand this, but different length conrods can give markedly different results on the dyno. I just find it odd that no one bothers thinking about this one very important property. Have fun.

Will have a go at some answers... What are the complications with getting exhaust and inlet aftermarket cams in a CVT 25DE? Um, like....? What size's/lift/duration are best for street driving? Anything to enhance Mid AND high range? With regard to this motor, not sure. How much power will gain with a good tune? Depends on the cam & any other components fitted. What prices am I looking at for a good set of cams? About $1k for two. Sometimes more. Is it worth going overkill and getting massive cams? No. This will simply remove low & mid range torque & you wont be able to pick up any top end hp. What are the differences in cams? E.i How and what happens if you increase left/duration? Lift (not left) is simply the amount by which the cam lifts the inlet and or exhaust valve away from the head. Duration is the length of time (in degrees) that the cam does this for. More duration valve is open longer, more lift valve is open further. How do I tell the left/duration? It will be stated by the manufacturer. Will I have to get cam gears? Not necessarily. At what point will I need to go larger injectors? When you run out of injector flow. Broadly every cc/min in a 6 cylinder equates to a rwhp.

It stops the master cylinder from moving forward by placing a mechanical stop in front of it (tied to the shock tower) See the photo. If you want to get an idea of what is going on lift the bonnet & watch the master cylinder whilst a mate presses on the brakes...

Well if your foot was close to the floor you probably boiled your fluid in which case replacing it should make the problem go away. With regard to the pads - well some types come back after they get too hot, but others are stuffed for ever more. It depends on what they are made of. If you want an opinion I would spend the $200 or whatever on some new pads. They are after all some of the most important parts on your car.

Well Shane Warne is the greatest exponent of leg spin bowling the world has ever seen & Muralithurin is a third rate chucker and a sook who is abbroad minded personely useless away from the subcontinent. Does that help?

Would suggest: 1: Re-write post so that is atleast sounds coherent. 2. Invest in a brake master cylinder stopper from someone like Cusco to stop the firewall flexing. 3. Don't worry about the level of fluid - as the pads wear it will lessen. 4. Depending on how much braking you are doing it may just be fade, ie pad gets hot, pad loses friction coefficient.

First races I can remember of Senna was him in the JPS Lotus-Renault. Absolutely staggering throttle control & general driving. There may be some stuff on Youtube which you can compare with todays cars. Different world. He was a bit stuffed in the head by the whole Prost/J M Balestre thing in the late 80's/early 90's.

1. Yes am doing that presently. 2. Not bitching about the product quality. Just annoyed that it doesn't fit.

Here is a pretty picture of my allegedly drop in replacement intercooler for my R32 R. Won't name brands but the more perceptive of you will be able to see the name helpfully painted on the thing. Judging from the weekends results - to paraphrase Warnie this mob can't race, can't fabricate. Good work.

Doesn't take much to get him fired up does it? Going from 45th to a lap down didn't really ruin his day. Shame he hasn't got a competitive car as he was always pretty good value. Not least on the radio.

They didn't rip it off so much as tie it in to the narrative. If you watch the film you can play spot the F1 driver/team owner etc. The footage from Spa shows the complete lack of run off area/safety barriers, even seat belts....

Well they changed it because the drivers comments were just plain boring. I don't think the drivers can go the officials, however. Which to my mind put Stevie Johnson sailing a bit close to the wind after the dodgy penalty the gave him. That was the problem Lowndes had last year, as much as anything.

Scaife's name is actually spelt with a k. Yep, like PI last year was "even' & Eastern Creek this year was "even". Motor racing has almost always been about the car, not the driver. Why, for example, has Greg Murphy gone from kicking everyones arse to being an also ran? You can't tell me that the talentless hacks that are the Kelly clan are there because of talent. Tell that to Allan Grice. What you needed was factory support & the best of the latest bits that came out of the factory - before everyone else had them. Ofcourse having a shitload of money didn't hurt. What people tend to ignore is that Brocks ATCC record wasn't actually that brilliant. Atleast in contrast to his Sandown/Bathurst record. Check how many ATCC championships he won in the eighties - compared to Dick Johnson for example. Lastly Australia once had an endurance championship which incorporated races other than Bathurst/Sandown. Shame that it is no more & no one bothers counting who won what.

Stonger - ok then how? Stronger in tension? Stronger in compression? Stronger in bending perhaps & if so along which axis. Stronger in torsion? More resistant to fatigue? The bottom line is that unless you can physically compare two rods (ie side by side), measure them up, weigh them etc etc there is no mechanism to make a sweeping statement about which is stronger or better. That is why you can commonly find both types. Having said that I take the viewpoint that there are three things that will probably lead to the demise of my engine as far as the conrods are concerned: Fatigue ie crack resistance. An over rev ie wrong slot on the gearbox - this is about tensile strength & cross sectional area. Failure in buckling about the same axis as the crank caused by bad tune or by getting too greedy with the boost. For me the nominal advantage of an H beam rod ie lower rotational inertia is not of much interest in a short stroke turbo engine that only revs to 8000rpm. So I would prefer an I section rod on first pass. Lastly how is it that one of the conrods most important geometric properties -ie ITS LENGTH - never gets mentioned?

Well it isn't actually Ron Dennis' fault. More of a case of getting a deal done whilst he cane & whilst it can benefit McLaren. The rule shouldn't have changed - each entry should be required to use a different constructor. Back in the day companies such as Lola & March supplied heaps of chassis. & yep Honda suck wang this year. Hopefully they will improve.

It shouldn't matter whether it is an R32 or a 33. The offsets & dimension should be that same. Remember the Brembo gear supplied by Nissan (ie not the F40's, 50 etc) bolt up to both cars without a problem. There are only two critical dimensions you need for a hat to be manufactured. 1. The thickness of the centre of the hat, ie the mounting face thickness. This is so your wheel sits right. 2. The offset of the rotor from the mounting face. In plan view this basically defines how much "offset' the rotor has. It need to be accurate to about 0.5mms. This allows the rotor to sit in the middle of the caliper, not off to one side. After that as long as you have the right rotor thickness, od & enough radial depth for the pad to wipe on you are away. Anything else is the suppliers problem eg how many bolts the hat uses etc. Lastly I still would put money on this being the 1B2.7011A kit from the Z32.

This B team thing is one of the worst things to happen to F1. Now everyone will need a B team to get enough testing data. Why didn't they just leave things alone?

Well it's plausable. Which is the kindest thing you can say about some of his stuff.

Sounds like a typical Joe Saward piece of bullsh!t. He basically makes up whatever he wants & reports his opinion as fact or occasionally as conjecture. More often than not he is completely wrong. As the quote goes "Writing fiction is great, you can make up just about anything." He is one reason why I never used to buy Motorsport News. Although now you don't have to pay for it.

If the thing is making grinding noises is it coming from worn pads or from something else. So its $675 including hats, yes? Or just for the discs? Tony (?) from V-Sport is good value. If you can get one of the shops to make you some hats or know a milliner you can use a good range of rotors as the 332 x 32 size are very common (Read 13 inches by inch and a quarter). You can perhaps try Alcon & AP as they should have something similar. Did the Z32 part numbers match up as I noted before when looking around that the Stoptech R32 kit is the same as the Z32 kit... If you want to sling us a PM for the bits as I would be interested.

Look I may be WAAAAYY of target here, but the 332mm rotor I understand to match the F40 caliper. This setup is offered as a set for the Z32 rather than the R32 although from what I can gather it fits up. So maybe have a look at the part numbers for the 300ZX kit... Cattledog: http://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/Templat...T=NoModifyGuest Disc code (Note slotted, not drilled - don't get drilled) 09.5682.92/93 Do you know how much the rotors are out of interest? Also providing the disc offset is the same & the other diameters match as does the width you could get yourself a new hat & rotor from another manufacturer.

Not always....

Stop me if this gets too boring. The four main issues are: 1. Strength in tension. 2. Strength/buckling resistance in compression. 3. Weight 4. Inertia (Different to 3) #1. This is pretty easy - the more metal the conrod has in the cross section the stronger it will be. #2. This is a function of both amount of metal in the cross section (ie how many mm's squared) & also the geometry of the thing eg H or I section. All else being equal I section is better - that is why they make beams in buildings in an I pattern. #3. Obvious - lighter = better. #4. Inertia - this is where the H beam picks up on the I beam. It has less inertia - remember that the rod goes around as well as up & down. Means that H beam rods will allow the engine to pick up revs slightly quicker. Oh and as regards the rapidity with which they fail - dont worry about it. Once they go its going to get ugly quickly. As to the Pauter rods - I have NFI why anyone would want to use that pattern for a conrod. For me for a turbo motor I would go I section.

I thought I might add a couple points to this discussion about rear wings & things. 1. The rear wing will feel as is it is producing more rear grip because in part it is, but also because it is degrading the front grip. The down force & the drag that the wing produces, respectively behind & above the rear axle line will induce an uplift on the front axle. 2. Front splitters & rear difusers only work well when they are located close to the ground. The difusers becoming fashionable on the new cars are mainly for show & also to lessen drag by cleaning up the undercar air flow. 3. Very few production cars can actually produce any downforce, let alone meaningful downforce. Check the V8 supercar figures if you don't believe me. For all the size of their wings the downforce produced is suprisingly small.