djr81

The blowby that gets sucked out of the head by the turbo (As opposed to the drivers side which goes into the engine on over run) goes to the rear turbo. This is almost certainly what you are seeing. Usually it ends up dripping out of the bovs. Even the crack pipe priced Nismo catch can doesn't stop it from happening.

Allegedly the fixed the MGU-H overheating issues which then allows everything else work properly. Be good to see them have half a result.

Probably not. Nissan like 1.25mm pitch and when I put Brembos on they were 1.5mm

Doubtless been asked and answered but what boost controller do you have. Need to be sure the wastegates are shut unless you need them to be otherwise.

Will go and have a look now that you have made me paranoid.

I dunno maybe a 32 has a very slightly longer stroke than a 26 and therefore doesnt need a long duration cam. What I am trying to reconcile is the following (In no particular order). Why the thing appears to have so much torque in the midrange when the -5 turbos arent known for this. If the exhaust is collapsed (And yes at some stage I will get it checked) how does this fit up with it holding the 20lb boost in the top end - would it not struggle there? How to differentiate between the theoretical changes for each of the cams, so what would a larger inlet do in this circumstance in isolation. Same question for the exhaust cam.

Cams are actually set to chase powahs. Wish I could get a chart of yours on 98 but nevermind. Not sure how much more boost there is the controller is at 82% or thereabouts something just over 20lb.

A stuffed what sensor? I doubt it is a leak based on it making boost. Anyone got a Z32 afm conversion for mv to airflow as I can read that off the power FC controller.

Some of them have caustic in them which will eat the aluminium.

High revs seems to be where the problem is worst for most people.

Be very careful if you use paint stripper as they and aluminium often dont get on.

Nah because there shouldn't be much difference in pressure between the sump and valve cover. Certainly not as much as between the sump and the catch can. I would expect it to pump oil into the catch can every now and then which is why I wouldn't do it that way.

Valve cover not much. Catch can I wouldn't. You don't want to put oil between the blowby and its escape to atmosphere. Essentially this is what goes on in the head and you don't want to replicate it in the sump extension. Above the oil line yes, below no.

I'll take the 911. Again.

Not many people run them. When I was buying rings I was offered them but didn't take it up because I wasn't familiar enough. THey promise to offer very little blow by which would be a huge gain for an RB26. Pacific Engine Parts are fans of them. Give them a ring 03 9737 0717

What do you mean by reverse staggered? Tomei (For want of a different option) offer the following: Poncam A :260 inlet and 252 exhaust at 9.15mm lift. Poncam B: 260 inlet and 260 exhaust at 9.15mm lift. I have a 256 inlet and a 252 exhaust. Upgrade option on the inlet side appear to be to go an extra 4 degrees and more lift picking one of 9.15, 10.25 and 10.80. On the exhaust side the increments are in four degrees also although I didn’t look at the lift. Inlet 256 degree 9.25mm lift. Opens TDC. Closes 41 degrees ABDC. For 221 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 1 degree ATDC. Closes 43 degrees ABDC. For 222 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 10.25 lift. Opens TDC. Closes 43 degrees ABDC for 223 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 10.80 lift. Opens 1 degree BTDC. Closes 41 degrees ABDC for 222 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 252 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 42 degrees BBDC. Closes 8 degrees BTDC for 214 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 256 degrees 9.25mm lift. Opens 46 degrees BBDC. Closes 7 degrees BTDC for 219 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 260 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 47 degrees BBDC. Closes 3 degrees BTDC for 224 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift.

Probably a bunch of unhelpful suggestions get posted.Looked on the rb26 dyno thread there are two -5 poncam posts neither of which have printouts. Thinking my old chart may have been with a stuffed boost controller so cannot gauge the response from personal experience.

By bigger I mean mostly on the inlet side with maybe 260 or 264 degrees. Boost doesn't tail off so I suspect there is enough exhaust cam in it.

With the boost controller fixed it now makes boost low in the range - so the number at 4000rpm is 270rwhp (With -5's so beat that with a stick) instead of 200. The tuna said it was fairly insensitive to ignition advance and had phased the cams as best he could. Given the torque output is more useful further up the rev range what would people recommend for bigger cams? It has a 256 degree inlet and 252 degree exhaust.

Do the head clearance around the cam lobes for when you get bored and want to put big lift cams in.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/manuals/pdf/piston.pdf See page 13 - .05mm to .055mm

Simply that the Ikeya arms are a good thing if you want adjustable suspension components. Short of that just rebush it (Either with adjustable bushes or not) and replace whatever arms you want to be able to adjust.

Race magazine?

Car ran to 435 (I think) with checked then adjusted cam centres. Will pick it up tomorrow. So wasnt that.

No but if my memory serves me correctly you need a stubby spanner.