Aggroman

i dunno what it is she isnt Ugly per say but she sure as f**k looks 40 or more

u can lowmount it man.. 12mm spacer and ur done

3076 time! that thing is off to the scrapheap!

ok to answer the questions after talking to an engineer myself.. highmount can be legal if it passes emissions testing as part of certification. Bolt in and weld in half cages are legal only after being inspected and passing certification, it does not need to meet cams standards ie be cams approved to pass engineering buuuuuuuut why would u bother if it isnt! all aftermarket coolers are actually illegal also unless engineered and securely attached with a certain grade of bolt through equivalent steel attached to the chasis of the car, lines and fittings are different to the cooler itself and will be tested (I dont know how, I presume pressure tested). rose jointed arms cant pass, coilovers cant pass unless u provide specific valving specs, brakes are as easy as doing a brake test and being bolted down with the correct grade bolt. Those are just for your common knowledge interstate cars can be defected, the defect is specific to that state but the warning can also be transferred if it does not meet the states law in which the car is registered.

whoever said playing with fire was bad...

not gonna lie 18's look shithouse and wrong.. maybe its just the wheel style though

soold!

fancy.. his car even has its own persian carpet

buy mine cause i never drive it!

GG we win, evo's cant launch! and honda's are welll fkn hondas

man u clown i had a 34 compressor in my garage with a bracket for like a year and sold it 2 months ago.. if u want to test fitment you can come take mine out of my car (its already disconnected) then you can test it, if all goes well u can buy another one

had a few interested but nobody fronting up the $$ make me an offer

I have the injectors and standard ECU if you want them pm me

just downloaded and watched quali.... that was all over the damn shop and a surprising finish for red bull and the likes, was good seeing homo shattered at the end too!

now you get to do wiring yayyy

temptation is high to go but work.. lets hope this skin thing gets worse and im deemed infectious hence unable to go to work but still good enough to smear it on everyone else as a sign of good luck

nice to see some people still have a sense of logic

no 3 and 4 have the nut. size is m10x1.25. but to be sure get a $4 set from bunnings in 1.25 and 1.5 to test then ur away and can get the lengths u need man

nvm shit pic but it gives u the sizes.. sizes are on the right as u can see in the pic

i have all the fast numbers but it doesnt give sizes or lenghts. but if u want the info lemme know nad ill post them up, There are some websites around that let you search by part no and order online but ill have to look them up also hehe

bump $350

is covered by air box yet still paints it black... GG

just thought id pop in and say NNNNNNNNUGGGGEETTTTT

well that ticking sound u hear when trying to start is your starter motor not getting enough power to move the little wheel forward and spin which is what starts the car. how did the mechanic test the battery? just with a multimeter? My previous battery didnt start my car after 2 weeks, turned out hte battery was overcharged after going flat which in turned damaged the cells. It was still outputting 14.7v but didnt have the amperage to start the car. This is probably what you are looking at. My suggestion is to take the battery out, take it down to Battery world (I use the penrith branch as they are awesome) and they will test it properly and give you an answer, They will also give you a loaner battery to test the issue so you can take that one home and see if the car starts straight away. If it does then its your battery and u have to spend $100-140 on a new one. If its not the issue my next bet is your alternator which will be a prick of a job to do solo if you dont have the mechanical know how to pull it out yourself. That will then have to get sent away to be tested/replaced. If it is your alternator my suggestion would be to go to the for sale section of the forum find someone who is wrecking a R34 and buy one there if you are tight for $$. Power leak doesnt make sense as it would have to be draining to a source ie A light. it doesnt just evaporate. Since you said u had no alarm/immobiliser I dont see this being the issue unless you have a boost controller/stereo wired direct to the battery so its always on which I doubt! Thats all the advice I can give you, start with the simple cheap options and work your way down. Its a process of elimination that you have to follow

Sounds like discharged battery or possibly alternator is on its last legs which is killing your battery